Sony TA-N55ES Restoration
- Thread starter amr2
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Paint job looks incredible and the real wood sides pop. Nice work!
50 Green
Well-Known Member
Beautiful work!
That poor beast had seen better days. It's great to see it put back right.
For the wooden side pieces, did you use the hardware off the original pieces, or find something else that would work? ...I have a TA-N55ES that came without the wooden sides, and I've been thinking of making some, similar to yours (which are beautiful BTW.)
That poor beast had seen better days. It's great to see it put back right.
For the wooden side pieces, did you use the hardware off the original pieces, or find something else that would work? ...I have a TA-N55ES that came without the wooden sides, and I've been thinking of making some, similar to yours (which are beautiful BTW.)
amr2
Well-Known Member
Thank you! Despite not being top of the line of the ES series, they sound great. But I still haven't been able to test them properly, I will talk about them in a few days.
I used the original hardware and new adhesive felt. For the plastic pieces you can use the female part of the Monacor MBF-83 frame dowels, they are very similar in size:
I used walnut veneer, treated with wood oil and wax. I liked it better than rosewood, but this is my personal taste
IMHO, It's important that you use some kind of heatsink on the STK, it runs very hot, and if it fails, its very difficult to find. Normally a high dc offset at the speaker outputs indicates problems in this IC. Also cold joints are common in this STK and driver transistors.
I used the original hardware and new adhesive felt. For the plastic pieces you can use the female part of the Monacor MBF-83 frame dowels, they are very similar in size:
I used walnut veneer, treated with wood oil and wax. I liked it better than rosewood, but this is my personal taste
IMHO, It's important that you use some kind of heatsink on the STK, it runs very hot, and if it fails, its very difficult to find. Normally a high dc offset at the speaker outputs indicates problems in this IC. Also cold joints are common in this STK and driver transistors.
restorer-john
Addicted Member
The cabinet, panel and woodwork is truly excellent, well done. Nice to bring back a 55es from the edge. I really admire the wood panels, I wish I had those skills.
So you've re-purposed a heatsink for the VAS IC but my concern here is the heatsink is not secured to the PCB and the fins are horizontal, not vertical.
The additional elevated heatsink mass will place more stress on the solder joints and the amplifier is unlikely to survive unscathed if shipped anywhere.
So you've re-purposed a heatsink for the VAS IC but my concern here is the heatsink is not secured to the PCB and the fins are horizontal, not vertical.
The additional elevated heatsink mass will place more stress on the solder joints and the amplifier is unlikely to survive unscathed if shipped anywhere.
amr2
Well-Known Member
Yes, you are right, I would also prefer vertical fins, but I was unable to find it. Although is not showed in that picture, I ended up lowering the IC, so that the "feet" of the heatsink rest on the PCB. The stress on the solder joints are minimized in this way. Anyway, it is not a perfect solution...
50 Green
Well-Known Member
I used the original hardware and new adhesive felt. For the plastic pieces you can use the female part of the Monacor MBF-83 frame dowels, they are very similar in size:
I used walnut veneer, treated with wood oil and wax. I liked it better than rosewood, but this is my personal taste
IMHO, It's important that you use some kind of heatsink on the STK, it runs very hot, and if it fails, its very difficult to find. Normally a high dc offset at the speaker outputs indicates problems in this IC. Also cold joints are common in this STK and driver transistors.
I didn't realize you used veneer. Beautiful, very clean work!
Thanks for the tip on the plastic pieces. I guess I'll have to fab something for the top brackets. Seeing yours is helpful... at least gives me an idea of how they catch. It would be nice to find someone w/ a ruined set of sides, willing to sell the brackets, but I think that might take a lot of luck. Are the brackets made of steel?
I'd also like to put a heat sink on my STK. Somewhere I saw a post from someone who had an image of an adhesive-backed heat sink with vertical fins that fit almost perfectly. I should have made a note of the source (if it was listed.) Maybe one of the places that supplies computer modders would have something like that. Meanwhile, I have a spare STK on hand, just in case!
mr.muddles
Super Member
Are there any guides or tutorials available on making the side panels? I have a N77ES with damaged panels (in shipping) and a gx10es I want new panels for... yours look really nice!
amr2
Well-Known Member
Yes, steel:
You can mount the side panels it without these brackets, but they are better fixed with them.
50 Green
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the detailed images and drawing! That's fantastic! I should be able to fab something up that will work.
Interesting that they're straight w/ barbs, to anchor in a slot. I'd imagined a right angle w/ a hole, to anchor w/ a fastener. I guess the slot could be cut with a router. Is that what you used?
Thank you again!!
amr2
Well-Known Member
More simple. You have to drill a hole, 9 mm diameter x 10mm depth. Then put the clips with pressure. You don’t see these holes in the pics because they are covered by the felt.
50 Green
Well-Known Member
Ah! Very simple! I guess there's no need to worry about the clips rotating in the hole. The slot in the steel case will keep them aligned.
Again, beautiful work on the entire restoration!!
amr2
Well-Known Member
They are not difficult to make. You can use MDF and natural veneer glued with contact adhesive. Once sanded, apply wood oil. Finally apply transparent wax. Sorry for my English, is very basic.
mr.muddles
Super Member
Your english is great! Thanks for your response.
I guess I am wondering about the veneer how did you cut it into strips and the right sizes with a ruler and exacto knife?
amr2
Well-Known Member
You have to cut strips greater than the size of the piece. Then glue the veneer withe the aid of a piece of wood with a blunt edge, pasting and applying pressure in the direction of the grain. Cut the leftover with a exacto knife, putting the veneer upside down, and leaving some leftover (1mm or less). Finally, finish off the edge with sandpaper.