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Starting Restoration of MC2125 and MX113 - Looking for Experienced Input

SAA115

New Member
All,

I am a relative newbie to the McIntosh forum here on AK, but in the past several weeks i have quickly begun to appreciate the significant experience that exists here on the forum. How fortunate for me that i just recently became the proud owner of a beautiful MX113 and a, slightly mistreated, but equally beautiful MC2125. My close neighbor was gracious enough to pass along his McIntosh units so he could clear out for a remodel.

With that said, i'm relatively inexperienced in the audio restoration area. I've been inside a few of my components in the past to fix faulty selectors, clean up some contacts, or repair a fuse, but never to tackle such a restoration job like this, let alone with a classic unit like the 113 or the 2125.

So lucky for me this forum exists. I've been reading some of the communities threads on repairs and restorations which has been very helpful. I thought moewillis' thread was very informative.

At this stage, because i haven't done a restoration before, i'm in fact finding mode. I already have been through the owner's and service manuals for both units. I'm starting to tally the caps i need to replace. I like the LED approach i've seen for the bulb replacements on the MC2125 and would want to match for the 113. I have a lot of questions, so i thought i'd list them out and ask for input.

A couple of notes first:
- The MC2125 has a cracked glass panel as the unit was dropped. It appears to be in fine working condition, but the glass panel needs to be replaced. I'm assuming between $150 and $200 for the panel replacement.
- The MX113 is missing the face plate that indicates the function of the black tabs/buttons. It looks like this may be a hard find
- There is some noise on the 113 and crosstalk between the aux line and phono1, but not phono2.

Questions:

1) Which unit should be tackled first? The MC2125 looks straightforward from what i've seen.
2) Knowing there is significant soldering work, what suggestions/cautions would you give someone who has soldered before, but with entry level equipment, and is by no means an expert.
3) At this point, i'm looking for some guidance on what to look for, any additional prep i should be doing before I start purchasing parts and some general good practices.

Thank you all in advance. I consider it a privilege to have stumbled into the McIntosh family. I'm looking forward to the journey.
 

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Welcome to AK, for the glass on both pieces try calling Gail at Mcintosh parts. You'll have to be patient as they only make replacement glass once or twice a year I believe. I waited 6 months for my 114 glass. Best of luck with nice vintage gear!
 
Welcome to AK, for the glass on both pieces try calling Gail at Mcintosh parts. You'll have to be patient as they only make replacement glass once or twice a year I believe. I waited 6 months for my 114 glass. Best of luck with nice vintage gear!
Thanks. I anticipate this being a process that takes me some time; I also want to do a fair amount of up front research before diving in. Quick question for you, and the group, on the glass. I am assuming that the glass for the Mx113 would NOT include the face plate with bezel and labeling for the black buttons, correct? As you can see from my pics, i'm completely missing this face plate.

On your 114, did the replacement glass included the face plate?
 
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BTW, AlTinkster92's comment made me notice something. The MC2125 that i have does not have the "silver" bezel around the meters like i have seen in some pictures of other 2125 untis. Were later models manufactured without these bezels? I actually like the look w/o them quite a bit better.
 
BTW, AlTinkster92's comment made me notice something. The MC2125 that i have does not have the "silver" bezel around the meters like i have seen in some pictures of other 2125 untis. Were later models manufactured without these bezels? I actually like the look w/o them quite a bit better.


Wellcome and I think you have a 2125 with an already replaces glass. Which has also been cracked
 
Its brother without the meters saved more commercial customers head aches at the time than any other amp I have ever installed. No more blown HF diaphragms or efficient speaker systems. Very very long service life and yet still had the similar tube Mac sound. The bigger brother 2200 saved a bunch of woofers in bi amped systems, too. 2205's were very popular and the 2125 only a bit less. There were a lot of efficient speaker systems back then and some times I had to use the next lower tap to drive a speaker with out being over driven.

Both the 2205 and 2125 were affordable for the times to quite a few people. By the time the 7300 came along with its brother the 7150, price increases had really curtailed our sales.

Mx=113 and I weren't the best of friends. They were a little edgy in the tuner mode, and weren't as smooth as the older MX-110 which had a special sound of it's own. If I could have found more MX 110's they would have been an easy sell. Mx 113 could be a little noisy with efficient Klipsch and Altec speakers we sold. JBL speakers with the horrid ring radiators didn't get along with 113's either. 113 got along with Bozak speakers rather well. I installed multiple systems in one home using 4 MX-113's. Three worked great with the Bozak s, but the systems using the Altec and Kipsch had to be changed. Using a C-22 and MR 74 later on.
 
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Thanks. I anticipate this being a process that takes me some time; I also want to do a fair amount of up front research before diving in. Quick question for you, and the group, on the glass. I am assuming that the glass for the Mx113 would NOT include the face plate with bezel and labeling for the black buttons, correct? As you can see from my pics, i'm completely missing this face plate.

On your 114, did the replacement glass included the face plate?


Nope, glass only. :)
 
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