• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

SX-5590 tragedy

Marathon session today ended with a working left channel and the immense relief of a perfectly functioning preamp. Today was new bulk caps, new soft start relay, recap tuner and phono boards, re-replace a couple caps too tall for the amp bd, new micas all around and finally start reassembling.

The only bad parts I have found so far are the leaking bulk baps and the Spkr A lamp, so before it was dropped it may have worked fine.

Still need to paint the inside rear cover and finish reassembly. Tuner is BAD, needs IF adjustment, and the assembled channel is idling at only 10mA, or 10mV rather.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2858.jpg
    IMG_2858.jpg
    74.9 KB · Views: 57
Bottom cover reinstalled. It's reasonably flat, although the fresh paint highlights all the bumps I couldn't see before. And of course the first thing I did was scratch it, about 9 o'clock in the photo. Screwdriver slipped. :)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2859.jpg
    IMG_2859.jpg
    69.7 KB · Views: 59
Marathon session today ended with a working left channel and the immense relief of a perfectly functioning preamp. Today was new bulk caps, new soft start relay, recap tuner and phono boards, re-replace a couple caps too tall for the amp bd, new micas all around and finally start reassembling.

The only bad parts I have found so far are the leaking bulk baps and the Spkr A lamp, so before it was dropped it may have worked fine.

Still need to paint the inside rear cover and finish reassembly. Tuner is BAD, needs IF adjustment, and the assembled channel is idling at only 10mA, or 10mV rather.

Do you mean the idle voltage measure on the power amp board is 10 mV?
Bob
 
Yeah the idle measurement at the given test points (very convenient) is 10mV, spec is 100mV. I realized today that I was still on the dim bulb though, so it doesn't count for much.

I have the other channel installed and working (!!) and it runs about 15mV on the dim bulb.
 
It's a 100W bulb. I put in new trimmers so I will dial it up once I get it on full 120. I looked the last time I was at the hardware store but I didn't see any 150W or higher, I'm afraid they aren't made any more.
 
100 watt is ok, just make sure the Idle trimmer is turned back. If it stays bright for more than a few moments, turn it off. A Moment is a little longer than a second.
 
With full line voltage it's running about 65mV on both channels at the moment. It looks like the consensus is about 80mV so that's what I will shoot for.

I almost have the faceplate reassembled. I used the tacky glue and it seems to be working great. Also replaced to the two bad lamps (SPKR A and STEREO) and put in some new DGWOJO dial lamps. Getting close! I just have to scavenge a standoff nut thing for the volume control from another machine here. This one was broken, of course.

I got tinted glass because that was all I could find at the time. It's pretty subtle, looks awesome.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2860.jpg
    IMG_2860.jpg
    106.3 KB · Views: 59
  • IMG_2863.jpg
    IMG_2863.jpg
    100.5 KB · Views: 55
  • IMG_2864.jpg
    IMG_2864.jpg
    119.4 KB · Views: 57
  • IMG_2865.jpg
    IMG_2865.jpg
    105.9 KB · Views: 71
Last edited:
Faceplate reassembly didn't quite go as planned because the tacky glue that seems to be holding the glass quite well didn't do nearly as well holding the lower trim piece (the one that holds the many pushbuttons). I also forgot to reinstall the retaining screws, although I think there was only one when i disassembled it, but I found some very shallow #4 sheet metal screws which seem to be doing an excellent job. I added some epoxy in a couple locations just to make sure it stays put and it's setting right now.

In the meantime I have been enjoying the sound of this currently faceless monster.
 
Glad you're enjoying your labor of love. Sucks you had to go thru all that, but in the end, it'll be worth it.
 
Getting close, just have to spruce up the cabinet a bit and I think it's done. I went "tasteful" with the mods: stainless screws for the grill, instead of black, and removed the heatshrink on the bulk caps. Oh and the tinted front panel glass.

I just realized the power switch knob is missing in the photos. It didn't come with one (sheared power switch), so it wasn't in my kit with the rest. I have since installed one. :)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2880.jpg
    IMG_2880.jpg
    51.8 KB · Views: 91
  • IMG_2879.jpg
    IMG_2879.jpg
    67.3 KB · Views: 82
Last edited:
Great job DRecovery, I've been following this thread and seen what you started with. You would never know it was the same receiver. That's amazing.

Bubba57
 
It's looking beautiful! Even tho this was a tragedy, I sense you're having fun. When it's all said and done, it'll be something to be proud of!
Congrats!
Bob
 
I straightened a Phase Linear 4000 faceplate using my van and a heavy gauge car trailer ramp. 1" x 8" oak flooring sandwiched on both sides of the faceplate on top of the steel ramp and just drove right over it. No dimples, no nothing
 
I straightened a Phase Linear 4000 faceplate using my van and a heavy gauge car trailer ramp. 1" x 8" oak flooring sandwiched on both sides of the faceplate on top of the steel ramp and just drove right over it. No dimples, no nothing

Wow, that's courage right there.

Pics of it lit up, please!!!
 
What paint did you use and how did it match the original? Semi-gloss?
Bob

Rustoleum Satin Black! I use it for everything. :) I even paint scratched up home theater receivers with it. Seems to work for everything.

There isn't much original paint at this point and what was there was terrible. The back panel is the only original black and it doesn't contrast harshly against the heatsink or vent grill.

The front panel is anodized aluminum and the match is not perfect but I am not sure it ever was. The color is about right but the texture is a bit different, as you can imagine.

The black vinyl on the cabinet also has a strong green tint. All the original black cabinets I have seen have this to a greater or lesser extent.
 
Whoops, I didn't clarify my request.

I'd love to see pics of the 5590 lit up. Sorry for the gaffe.

The tinted front panel glass is super-reflective and I haven't been able to get any good photos of it yet. So here's a crap one:

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • beauty 1.JPG
    beauty 1.JPG
    25.7 KB · Views: 71
Back
Top Bottom