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Tangent Acoustics - ???

So my first (only) time soldering in a new cap it was to a pin and not a board.

I'm wondering a few things:

Will these new PMPC caps fit? I mean, they are a lot fatter and specifically I'm worried about the new one squeezing in there where the red 6uf electorolytic cap sits. When dimensions are given on PE site like 22.5 x 31mm, is the first number the diameter?

And, on this board there are extra holes where it looks like I could seat the bigger caps. This would be perfect if true because it looks like I would have an easy job of getting a big PMPC 50uf in there. See the little hole in the 3rd pic near the red triangle print on the board?

And finally, do I need to use flux or something on this board? Is that what looks like rust under the solder? And if it is flux, what do I need?
 

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Thanks for all the help ivandezande.

Have 1 more. :D

Looks like these speakers have been handled pretty rough.

Noticed earlier that on the one speaker I opened up that the small purple coil had been knocked loose from it's zip-tie. Replaced that. It's the red zip in second pic.

Then, opened up the other speaker and one of the green cap things on the XO is broke free on one leg and sticking up like you see in first pic.

What should I do/replace that with?

I amazed with what I've found so far that these even produce sound. Resilient suckers.
 

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Those are the better quality capacitors on the board, that's kinda funny cause to replace them you need the 2.2uF part I linked to mistakenly....maybe I knew you'd need it!
So this one:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-22-22uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-415
Or you can scrape off the green stuff on that leg and try to resolder it.
I would replace all four of those green caps eventually, just because they apparently have the potentially to come off the board. And polys should be better. Will you put audio grade resistors in as well eventually?
 
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Both, actually. Audio grade simply have better tolerance (closer to said value) and less or no inductance.
 
Interesting.

How do you read the values or specs of them?
 

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So the first two 10R and 15R mean 10 ohms and 15 ohms respectively with both having a 5% tolerance, meaning the actual value can be off by 5%. The third is a color code, 27 ohms 5% tolerance. Red is 2 violet is 7 black means multiply by 1 and gold is 5% tolerance.
 
Ahh...ok. I was trying to figure out that color code business and I had it wrong. But now that you've explained it I see it.

You da-man ivan. Very kind of you to help me out.

I entered the info on them longer white resistors and there just isn't anything out there like them that I can find on this side of the globe. They are 17W. PE and everybody else have 12W as highest value I can find.


Think I will just leave them and replace the all the caps.
 
Okie-J said:
Ahh...ok. I was trying to figure out that color code business and I had it wrong. But now that you've explained it I see it.

You da-man ivan. Very kind of you to help me out.

I entered the info on them longer white resistors and there just isn't anything out there like them that I can find on this side of the globe. They are 17W. PE and everybody else have 12W as highest value I can find.


Think I will just leave them and replace the all the caps.
Click to expand...


No problem, can't wait to see these crossovers upgraded!
 
Mapped out a schematic.

Have been reading for days.

Stuffing my head with capacitor and crossover kanollage.

Own a desoldering iron now also. And some flux.

May well replace everything but coils.

Been reading a lot about the effects of esr and think I may go with polyester caps. I think the 2.0uf is metallized polyester and I'm sure the 2.2uf are.

What about polypropylene in the tweeter path and polyester in the woofer path?

Thoughts? Advice?
 

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There is an incredible amount of info to learn about this stuff, I'm happy you dove in! Many people don't bother understanding. Would the use of Mylar caps (polyester) be because of cost or keeping original sound? I agree with your decision not to replace the coils.
 
All Dayton polys would cost around $30 on parts express, and Mundorf resistors would be $15 from Madisound.
 
ivandezande said:
There is an incredible amount of info to learn about this stuff, I'm happy you dove in! Many people don't bother understanding. Would the use of Mylar caps (polyester) be because of cost or keeping original sound? I agree with your decision not to replace the coils.
Click to expand...

Yes, the reason I'm leaning towards polyester is out of fear of getting too far away from original voice of the speaker.

I'm worried dropping the esr too low by using PP caps may result in something bad. Unless it results in something good:D

IDK what to do.
 
You could always put a low value resistor in parallel with the caps if you are worried about ESR, but I think the change wouldn't be audible or very slight and neither bad nor good if there was one by changing the caps to polypropylene.
 
Both the 10R and 15R resistors are 17W. I need to free up some real-estate on the board for the bigger replacement caps.

Any problem going with 12W?

The 10R has legs keeping it up off the board so maybe it's making some heat but the 15R is laying tight to the board.

Also, in place of the duo of 2.2uf caps in parallel, can I replace them with a single 4.5uf?

And I assume the 2.2uf and 2.0uf caps are the tweeter caps? and the 50uf is the woofer cap? but what job is the 6uf cap doing?
 
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Okie-J said:
Both the 10R and 15R resistors are 17W. I need to free up some real-estate on the board for the bigger replacement caps.

Any problem going with 12W?

The 10R has legs keeping it up off the board so maybe it's making some heat but the 15R is laying tight to the board.

Also, in place of the duo of 2.2uf caps in parallel, can I replace them with a single 4.5uf?

And I assume the 2.2uf and 2.0uf caps are the tweeter caps? and the 50uf is the woofer cap? but what job is the 6uf cap doing?
Click to expand...


No problem unless you plan on really cranking them.
I don't see why not. There might have been a reason for this, someone may say otherwise.
It's creating a 2nd order network.
 
Ok, got some caps ordered. Still need to get the 50uf and I'm gona get a couple polypropylene 4.5uf caps and see how those sound in place of the two polyester 2.2uf run in parallel. The mylar caps were cheap enough to not even think about it and lots of folks claim the Kef T27 tweeters are happier with them so they will get a shot.

4- 2.2uF 250Vdc ERSE Metallized Polyester
2- 2uF 250Vdc ERSE Metallized Polyester

2- 2µF 400Vdc PµlseX Cap
2- 6.2µF 250Vdc PulseX Cap
 
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