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Technics Dustcover Fix

Sorry, can't remember but, if I had to guess, I'd say they were probably 3/16" diameter x 1/2" in length, maybe 3/4" in length but I don't think so. As you can see from the photo, the length is barely long enough to thread all the way through the nuts (which are "Nylocks", by the way). Figure you've got 1/4" of material thickness to go through (1/8" each of aluminum and plexiglass. Then you have the washers and the nut. All of their combined thicknesses will determine your length. The diameter of the bolts will be an aesthetic consideration. Too big will look clunky.

John
 
Hey Boreas. One more question (and I realize this is turning into an episode of This Old House). How did you get that bevel in the aluminum for the screw heads? I'll look up some how-to videos, but I'm curious as to your method.
 
taper reamer or countersink bit.
I did not find a need for ME to countersink anything. just clean the holes of any burrs
and you should be ok. But do it if you want , no prob.
 
DigitalZomby said:
Hey Boreas. One more question (and I realize this is turning into an episode of This Old House). How did you get that bevel in the aluminum for the screw heads? I'll look up some how-to videos, but I'm curious as to your method.
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There are special drill bits for that but don't bother. I did them when my idea was to use countersunk machine screws. For regular screws they're totally unnecessary.

John
 
Here's where I'm at right now. I've got my piece cut, but luckily I tried it in place before cutting any holes in my dustcover. As you can see in the picture, if it's going to sit flush then I need to do something different. There's nowhere for me to raise the hinge up, and there's no point in stuffing anything into it as has been suggested. So, any new suggestions? Again, this is on an SL-Q3.
 

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DZ, you need to read my several replys in fabricating mine. You need to provide some "relief" areas on the bracket for the fitting of the cover to the base. I took a few pics in an attempt to show best as I could this feature. requires some file work on botht the bracket and the cover to get it down to fit.
 
ferninando said:
DZ, you need to read my several replys in fabricating mine. You need to provide some "relief" areas on the bracket for the fitting of the cover to the base. I took a few pics in an attempt to show best as I could this feature. requires some file work on botht the bracket and the cover to get it down to fit.
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Ahh. I didn't think you were still active in this thread, but I did see your posts and pictures. What exactly did you use to file it down? I thought I had a triangle file in my toolbox, but I guess I tossed that rusted thing when I moved. I'll probably have to purchase whatever it is you used. So funny how I've now spent more money on tools for this diy project than I did on the TT in the first place.
 
I have dozs of files so cant say exactly which one. I also used a dremel rotary tool.
take the alum. to the hdwre store and show it to them and ask for a file that will file alum fast then buy that one.
You MUST have tools if you are going to play with these things. Just sayin.

I am always on AK and follow threads I have interest in.
 
DZ, what ferninando did results in the back edge of the dustcover coming closer to resting on the plinth. If that's what your issue is, filing or Dremeling notches in the dustcover for the new tongues to fit into, as he did, is the solution. I didn't do that on the dustcovers I repaired because, originally, the back edge of the dustcover was raised above the plinth the thickness of the original tongues. The new tongues only raised it about 1/16" above where was.

Really, you don't want it to touch the plinth as there's a chance that it will produce degree of resonance that could be picked up by the stylus. That's why I left it alone. It's also one of the reasons I shimmed the hinge sockets to raise the hinges off the plinth.

John
 
What about completely removing the tongue and braces from the back of the dustcover then bolting the new metal piece to the outside of the dustcover? Probably isn't easy to remove that much plastic.
 
parman said:
What about completely removing the tongue and braces from the back of the dustcover then bolting the new metal piece to the outside of the dustcover? Probably isn't easy to remove that much plastic.
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That would move the dustcover forward by the thickness of the metal, 1/8" in the case of the material I used and that should be used because it's a snug fit in the hinges.

John
 
boreas said:
That would move the dustcover forward by the thickness of the metal, 1/8" in the case of the material I used and that should be used because it's a snug fit in the hinges.

John
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I see what your saying. I only have 1 broken tongue so I guess that would make the cover sit crooked. I just thought it would eliminate the raising of the cover in the rear.
 
parman said:
I see what your saying. I only have 1 broken tongue so I guess that would make the cover sit crooked. I just thought it would eliminate the raising of the cover in the rear.
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Look at your good tongue. You may find it sticks down below the actual dustcover, just as the metal would. As I recall, this is true for all "tongued" covers for S-arms and none for the P-mount tables.

Of course, if you want to avoid raising the dustcover at the rear, you can cut a notch in the back edge into which the new tongue would fit.

John
 
Thanks for this thread. I am going to attempt a repair on my existing cover using this as a guide. The original cover has other cracks and a piece missing in one corner.
I am also going to make a new cover with acrylic and hinge it similarly.

The shape of the o.e.m cover is trapeziodal and 2 1/2 degrees off of a right angle. The tabs similarly are 2 1/2 degrees beyond (lower) than the plinth (at least they are on my cover). That may have had some bearing on how well your cover closed, but IDK. I am going to build my new cover with right angles to the top. I will then mount the tabs on the outside of the cover if possible. The new acrylic sheet only cost me $ 12. I ordered the acrylic sheet, cement, applicator and a couple of sample squares to play with. With shipping it all ran me $40.
 
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my new dust cover

I made a set of tabs as per this thread for my old dust cover. I can definitely understand why someone doesn't want to make these for sale as they require a lot of hand work and tweaking for fitment.

Anyhow after I made it work on the old dust cover I decided to build a new box. It's not perfect but it looks better than the old one.

old and new

oldandnewcover.jpg
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new dustcover

newdustcover.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
I agree, lots hand work to get em rite. U probably saw some of my pics.
beautiful new cover you made.
IMO they should have some sort of handle for opening.
that 2 1/2deg off bit is the big gotcha and 90 deg (actually 0deg off) would be much better
 
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ferninando said:
I agree, lots hand work to get em rite. U probably saw some of my pics.
beautiful new cover you made.
IMO they should have some sort of handle for opening.
that 2 1/2deg off bit is the big gotcha and 90 deg (actually 0deg off) would be much better
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Yes sir, I saw your pics (thank you) and I filed the base of the tabs as you did to keep them off of the plinth. I actually built 3 sets of tabs; 1 for the old cover, 1 for the new cover to mount on the outside (to see it it was possible) and finally the last set to mount on the inside of the new cover.

There's definintely a balancing act between the cover, tab angle and the hinge springs to keep the cover open.

Thanks for the compliment...I will let my wife know lol she helped A LOT.
We used the "tape hing acrylic box construction" method as described on the web.
Next time I am going to build a colored box ..ehemmm I mean my wife and I.

Cheers
 
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