Technics Q303 vs Technics SL 1700

[the_bellhop]

Hi all!

My vinyl collection has been growing and growing, and when I finally ran out of storage space and needed to upgrade I realized it was probably time to upgrade the system itself too. For a long time I’d been using a pretty basic set up: AT LP-60 tt, and a 90s Yamaha home theater package system consisting of receiver, three little satellite speakers and a small sub. After lots of Craigslisting and reading what felt like an impossible number of reviews here (thanks to everyone for your immense knowledge and generosity!) I upgraded to a Sony STR-6055 receiver, Wharfedale Diamond 7.2 Anniversary Edition bookshelf speakers, and a Dayton 10” sub. It sounds better than ever, but I know the intro AT tt is the weak link now. I’m hoping to close the loop and finish this round of upgrades to hold me over for the next few years.

I’ve been scoping CL and FB Marketplace for deals, as I’ve been trying to keep everything to a fairly tight budget, and felt like I was finally ready to pull the trigger on a Technics Q303. It’s currently listed at $120 but has been sitting for a bit so I was planning to offer $100 and see what happens. But there’s also a Technics SL-1700 that just dropped from $270 to $225. I know the 1700 was a more expensive unit originally (inflation calculator puts it over $900 in today’s dollars, versus $600something for the Q303) and based on all the reviews I feel like that whole line of Technics is well regarded. Not quite 1200 level, but still. However, specs like wow & flutter, rumble, etc seem fairly similar between the two tables so I guess I’m trying to figure out if the 1700 is worth basically double the price of the 303.

The 303 is on the low end of my range, which I set at $1-200, and I was sort of hoping to stay out of the top of the range. But I’d be more eager to bump up a bit if I understood the value add better. Thanks for any insights you care to share!

 

[Yodathedog]

I own several of the SL-QXXX tables and like them all very much. Their big advantage is the quartz motor. Exact perfect speed all the time. The Q203 is fully automatic, another big advantage. Mine all have the straight arms and use P-mount cartridges. No biggie for me.

That said I also own a mint condition SL1200 MKll that I will never part with. It’s a most outstanding turntable in every way..except it’s totally manual. Not a biggie. The SL1700 is automatic return, but you still have to manually start the play process.

Among others, I also have a very nice SL1300, which is biding it’s time until one of the other tables fails. You might look for one of them. Very similar to the 1700 and fully automatic, and in the same general price range as the 1700.

 

[swechsler]

I doubt you'd go wrong with either. Speed accuracy is not really an issue; while manufacturers made a big deal about turntables having a quartz locked motor, in reality, any turntable with a pitch control would do just as well. One point in the 1700's favor is that it has a suspended subchassis. The Q303's only suspension is its feet.

 

[the_bellhop]

Thanks for the info Yodathedog and swechsler! It definitely seems like either will be a clear upgrade over my current table, but still trying to learn as much as I can during the process. The specs started to make sense to me, but I know that’s just a starting point and there’s a lot that goes into the sound quality beyond them. Tonearm advantages (other than cart compatibility) and motor torque for ex. are where I start to get a bit cross eyed...

I’m leaning towards the 1700 on features and aesthetics, but mostly because it’s a 15 minute drive vs 45 min I messaged the seller but no word yet. I’ll report back if either make it home!

 

[swechsler]

Motor torque shouldn't be much of a concern, unless you're using the turntable for DJ'ing. The tonearms in both of these are pretty similar; Technics' S-shaped tonearm didn't change too much over the years (the major difference being that higher end models had adjustable height, but that doesn't apply to either of these). They both use a 4 point gimbal design, although the Q303's looks a little nicer.

 

[Yodathedog]

My only real problem with TTs that have speed control is the controls themselves. They get dirty or go bad. I've had several that would "almost" keep a constant speed, but would drift a little. Quartz is locked on at all times and eliminates the need for speed control. Only thing is, it either works perfectly or not at all.

 

[swechsler]

My only real problem with TTs that have speed control is the controls themselves. They get dirty or go bad. I've had several that would "almost" keep a constant speed, but would drift a little. Quartz is locked on at all times and eliminates the need for speed control. Only thing is, it either works perfectly or not at all.

That's a fair point, but with an analog speed control, it's almost always fixable with standard parts. With quartz, you're probably looking at replacing the speed control circuit, if you can find one.

Either way, I wouldn't make it a determining factor for purchase.

 

[bigx5murf]

I had a SL-Q200, and it's mostly plastic construction would have feedback issues I had to chase down whenever I used a subwoofer. I ended up having to wallmount it, with a double layer MDF and rubber sandwich shelf to really get the feedback to stop.

I've never owned a SL-1700, but I have two SL-1200mk1, and one SL-1500, all of which didn't have any of the feedback issues when used with subs. The specs were actually better on my SL-Q200, but I sold it, and kept the pair of SL-1200mk1, the build quality difference is substantial.

 

[Yodathedog]

That's a fair point, but with an analog speed control, it's almost always fixable with standard parts. With quartz, you're probably looking at replacing the speed control circuit, if you can find one.

Either way, I wouldn't make it a determining factor for purchase.

True on both counts. I have/have had about an equal amount of either type.

 

[swechsler]

I had a SL-Q200, and it's mostly plastic construction would have feedback issues I had to chase down whenever I used a subwoofer. I ended up having to wallmount it, with a double layer MDF and rubber sandwich shelf to really get the feedback to stop.

The Q202/303 is completely different from the Q200/300 that came afterwards.

 

[Yodathedog]

The Q202/303 is completely different from the Q200/300 that came afterwards.

Yes they are different. The Q202/303 use the same standard tone arm setup that most Technics tables. The Q200/300 use the straight arm/P-mount setup. It not adjustable, and you can’t put just any cartridge on them, but in general I’ve not noticed with my very non-critical ears any difference that would make me prefer one or the other. I have a Q250, a Q300, and a Q350, and I like all 3 just fine. But not as much as my 1200 MKll, obviously.

 

[bigx5murf]

The Q202/303 is completely different from the Q200/300 that came afterwards.

Yes, but far as I can tell from pics, the plinth construction is similar if not identical. Which means the feedback issues with subs, and possibly placement would still apply.

 

[Yodathedog]

I’ve had a lot of Technics tables and have never had a feedback problem with any of them. I’m using 5 right now.

 

[swechsler]

Yes, but far as I can tell from pics, the plinth construction is similar if not identical. Which means the feedback issues with subs, and possibly placement would still apply.

Hmm, I'm not sure either way. I used to have an SL-Q2 which is a couple of generations older than the Q202/303, but pretty similar (at least appearancewise), and it definitely was not plasticky.

 

[bigx5murf]

I’ve had a lot of Technics tables and have never had a feedback problem with any of them. I’m using 5 right now.

Have you used subwoofers, or multiple subs with them?

Hmm, I'm not sure either way. I used to have an SL-Q2 which is a couple of generations older than the Q202/303, but pretty similar (at least appearancewise), and it definitely was not plasticky.

The plinth construction may not feel cheap, but it's still definitely a synthetic composite material of some sort. As opposed to the metal construction of the SL-1*00 series.

 

[swechsler]

The plinth construction may not feel cheap, but it's still definitely a synthetic composite material of some sort. As opposed to the metal construction of the SL-1*00 series.

Technics advertised this as "TNRC" (Technics Non-Resonant Compound). The SL-Q2 definitely used this, although I'm not sure if was just the base, or the plinth as well.

 

[the_bellhop]

Hi all! I ended up going with the 1700 and am super excited to get her hooked up. Only issue I’m having is I can’t tell what the tracking force should be for the cart that’s on here... The seller had listed it as having an “upgraded AT cartridge of a similar era to the table.” It’s a blue AT cart but doesn’t have a model number on it near the logo on the underside (where it seems to be on newer models.)

Seems like a current model in the same shade of blue is the vm95 with a tracking force of 1.8-2.2 but I don’t know if the color coding was consistent throughout the years, or means anything at all. Is that a rough standard range that should be a good starting point? Or do I need to figure out exactly which cart this is to be safe? Sorry for the noob question, but Google was no help here.

 

[swechsler]

You'd probably need to know the model of the stylus; depending on the cartridge, there could have been several different styli available with different tracking force requirements.

Post a close-up picture, maybe someone will recognize it.

 

[Yodathedog]

Unfortunately, AT has a bad habit of putting model numbers on the topside of the cart which is covered by the head shell. I wouldn’t try taking it apart unless you’re sure you can get it back together properly.

post a pic.

 

[the_bellhop]

Unfortunately, AT has a bad habit of putting model numbers on the topside of the cart which is covered by the head shell. I wouldn’t try taking it apart unless you’re sure you can get it back together properly.

post a pic.

Yeah, that’s on my list of “don’t do it until you have to”. I’ve never taken one apart so trying to avoid it for now if possible. I balanced the arm according to the manual and used a stylus force of 2 (and set anti skating to match) and to my ear it sounds pretty great! But then, this is a huge step up from my old tt so who knows what else I’m missing...

Not sure if these photos will help anyone. I couldn’t get a clear pic of underneath but on the angled part of the blue there’s just the AT logo, no numbers of any kind.

Thanks all for your feedback thus far!