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Technics Q303 vs Technics SL 1700

The only spec I worry about with tables in this range is weight. 6.5kg vs 10kg, I'm going with the 1700.
 
Removing and intalling a cartridge is not difficult, especially with that headshell.

But if forced to guess, I would say that it is an AT10 or 11 elliptical.

If so, 1.5-2.0 grams. You might want to verify alignment. Simple way is to move cart forward or backward until stylus tip is 52mm from rear of washer/gasket on the headshell bayonet.
 
Hi all! I ended up going with the 1700 and am super excited to get her hooked up. Only issue I’m having is I can’t tell what the tracking force should be for the cart that’s on here... The seller had listed it as having an “upgraded AT cartridge of a similar era to the table.” It’s a blue AT cart but doesn’t have a model number on it near the logo on the underside (where it seems to be on newer models.)

Seems like a current model in the same shade of blue is the vm95 with a tracking force of 1.8-2.2 but I don’t know if the color coding was consistent throughout the years, or means anything at all. Is that a rough standard range that should be a good starting point? Or do I need to figure out exactly which cart this is to be safe? Sorry for the noob question, but Google was no help here.
No, color coding in AT styli (where it exists at all) is for the diamond shape. It doesn't in any way identify the cart. Post a photo and I can tell you which series. This page may be helpful.

Edit: sorry, I missed the photos. @spark1 called it. Any stylus in "compatibility group A" at the link I gave will fit. If you can find the shibata you won;t be sorry.
 
Removing and intalling a cartridge is not difficult, especially with that headshell.

But if forced to guess, I would say that it is an AT10 or 11 elliptical.

If so, 1.5-2.0 grams. You might want to verify alignment. Simple way is to move cart forward or backward until stylus tip is 52mm from rear of washer/gasket on the headshell bayonet.

It could be if you’ve never done it.
For the time being he might wanna leave the cartridge where it is.
 
Or learn how to do it. If he can change batteries in a flashlight, I bet he can do it without too much anxiety. The skill sets are of approximately equal difficulty

Mimimally he could check it, and then decide if it is worth the effort to loosen the screws and adjust it.
 
Or learn how to do it. If he can change batteries in a flashlight, I bet he can do it without too much anxiety. The skill sets are of approximately equal difficulty

Mimimally he could check it, and then decide if it is worth the effort to loosen the screws and adjust it.

I disagree depending on how the cartridge was originally mounted.

bellboy, you can get an owner’s manual for the 1700 at hifiengine.org. You’ll have to join, but it’s free and you’ll get no spams from them. It’s strictly a database. It should show you how to properly mount the cartridge and adjust it for weight and balance.
 
Checking alignment requires nothing more than a good metric ruler...and if it's not right, all it takes is a slight loosening of the sled screw so that it can be moved forward or backward, as needed.

I guess the alternative is take it to a service shop and pay them to do it...but if you are going to have a TT, it's probably a good idea to know how to set it up.
 
Checking alignment requires nothing more than a good metric ruler...and if it's not right, all it takes is a slight loosening of the sled screw so that it can be moved forward or backward, as needed.

I guess the alternative is take it to a service shop and pay them to do it...but if you are going to have a TT, it's probably a good idea to know how to set it up.

That’s why I told him to get an owner’s manual and do it right. I’ve had turntables since the very early 70s. Some were easy to setup and some were not.

Incorrect stylus placement can cause inner groove distortion and improper weight can cause tracking problems and also distortion.

He’s lucky that he has the single screw head shell. That makes it easier to measure stylus forward alignment.
 
There are plenty of YouTube videos to show how to set it up. No need for the time or expense of hunting down a manual.
 
He doesn’t have to run down a manual. I’ve already found one at hifiengine.org. All he has to do is download it.
 
That’s why I told him to get an owner’s manual and do it right. I’ve had turntables since the very early 70s. Some were easy to setup and some were not.

Incorrect stylus placement can cause inner groove distortion and improper weight can cause tracking problems and also distortion.

He’s lucky that he has the single screw head shell. That makes it easier to measure stylus forward alignment.[/QUO


Curious...what is different between my advice and what is in the manual?
 
Curious...what is different between my advice and what is in the manual?

I’ve looked at a couple of those videos and I’d much rather have simple written instructions for my particular turntable in front of me.

You may think it’s as easy as changing a lightbulb, but many of us are all thumbs

Like I said, I’m experienced, but have had problems more than once

We’ve both given our views, why don’t we let him decide how to do it.
 
BTW, I came home yesterday with another SL-Q303 with an Ortofon OMP 5 cartridge with a very low mileage stylus. Only thing missing is the ground wire.

Not a problem.
 
I hope you have the manual.

BTW, the OP mentioned early on that he used the manual to calibrate his tracking force gauge (aka "balance the tonearm") and set the bias.

I stand by my suggestion to check the cartridge alignment. I am quite confident that the OP can use a ruler, and can loosen the sled screw enough to move the cartridge forward/backward if necessary.
 
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Well, it looks like the OP has moved on. I think I will too.

BTW, I consider your comment about the manual to be inconsiderate.
 
Hi all, I was staying out of the fray so to speak, but truly appreciate all the guidance! :)

I did check that the stylus was correctly set at 52mm so thankfully no adjustment needed at this time. I do have a manual downloaded and used it to set the balance correctly, but I’m also a very visual person so searching YouTube for relevant examples in the future would be helpful too—you’re both onto something there!

But if forced to guess, I would say that it is an AT10 or 11 elliptical.

If so, 1.5-2.0 grams.
Based on spark1 I re-adjusted from 2 down to 1.7 and everything has been sounding pretty fantastic.


Looks like JICO still has the shibata in stock and at a very reasonable price. You will LOVE this...

https://www.jico-stylus.com/product/ats12s/

markshan, appreciate the rec! To clarify what I’m looking at with that link, is that a stylus alone or a stylus and cartridge combo? I ask because in the earlier list of styluses from stereoneedles.com that spark1 linked to, the shibata was a little over $50. Wondering if the prices have just gone up significantly (almost x3) or if that JICO link is for an improved cart over the AT10.

Thanks again all!
 
markshan, appreciate the rec! To clarify what I’m looking at with that link, is that a stylus alone or a stylus and cartridge combo? I ask because in the earlier list of styluses from stereoneedles.com that spark1 linked to, the shibata was a little over $50. Wondering if the prices have just gone up significantly (almost x3) or if that JICO link is for an improved cart over the AT10.

Actually I linked to the stereoneedles page. I put that page there as a reference to the different body types. That said, the JICO does have a reputation for being better than factory, and yes, that link is just the stylus. However, the more pressing answer would be that both of the shibatas shown on the stereoneedles page say "No Stock!" in big red letters. If you contact them and find they do have one in stock I would certainly buy one at that price. In fact, if you find they have them let me know and I will buy one.
 
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