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Technics SL-1200 series as an audiophile turntable?

Guide to buying a used 1200:

http://www.turntabletech.com/used.htm

Some more info from http://www.wakata.cz/kutiluv koutek/SL1200.htm:

One of the most popular questions is where to look and what to check on the decks to see if they're in good shape. Unfortunately there is no real straight answer to this question. A lot of times people sell their used SL through the classifieds, others relay their intention to sell just by telling a lot of people, because they know the SL is incredibly popular. You should also make sure to call any store or other company that might have anything to do with turntables to see if they have them for sale. What probably works best is to tell a lot of people you're looking for them and have them contact you if they find anything.
Once you found one or more used turntables there are a few things to look for as to make sure they are in good condition:

The turntable as a whole should look in good shape. Look for any signs that might hint to abuse like heavy scratches, dents, melted plastic/rubber etc. In general it should look like nobody dropped it on the floor or something.
Have the owner install the turntable on a soundsystem to see if any sound comes out and to ensure the thing actually turns. While the platter turns check to see if the spindle is straight, a crooked spindle will make an abnormal wavy motion and if this is the case the turntable is useless!
The most important feature of the SL is the pitch control. Once the deck is turning you should put the pitch in the zero-position and then move the slider up and down slowly while looking at the pitch-dots on the turntable. Check that the dots speed up or slow down in a gradual, non-interrupted manner depending on which way you're going. Make sure they don't "schock" heavily as this is a sign of the pitch regulator being screwed up.
The second most important feature on the SL is the tonearm. It should feel solid and the screws on it should all be in place. Check that the arm-height adjustment ring, the anti-skating control knob, and the cueing lever function (The anti-skating control knob doesn't immediately do anything visible so just make sure you can turn it). Don't forget to see if the balance weight isn't missing!
Take off the platter as explained in "Opening the top" and see if the inside doesn't look like the inside of a dumpster. Excessive amounts of cigarette ashes point to heavy smoking by the owner while being used. This sometimes also shows in the grey cover of the SL1200 turning slightly yellow from the smoke.
If none of the above problems show up in the SL it can be deemed save to buy. Don't forget to ask for the cover, the 45-rpm adaptor and maybe the proof of purchase as this will ensure that the turntable is complete and comes from a reliable person.
 
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SL-1200 Mk II turntables can be had reasonably if you're lucky and patient. My example (in nice condition only missing part of one foot) cost $50. It's in excellent operating order. I ordered myself a foot from Panasonic Parts. Pawnshops can be amenable to bargaining if approached correctly.
 
Looking to buy one of these 1200 TT.Since i have never seen one and this table does not come with a cartridge i am thinking of buying a headshell and cartridge from Lpgear,they mention that they will assemble the cart to the headhell.Will i then just have to plug the headshell to the turnarm and do the necessary adjustments(tracking and weight) and play the lps?Or is it a more complicated job?
 
Looking to buy one of these 1200 TT.Since i have never seen one and this table does not come with a cartridge i am thinking of buying a headshell and cartridge from Lpgear,they mention that they will assemble the cart to the headhell.Will i then just have to plug the headshell to the turnarm and do the necessary adjustments(tracking and weight) and play the lps?Or is it a more complicated job?

Most likely it'll be aligned. I imagine they do this in their sleep....:thmbsp:
 
Most likely it'll be aligned. I imagine they do this in their sleep....:thmbsp:

Thks for inf but does the headshell just plug into the turnarm without any wiring issues.
I am asking this because i have a problem with my Pioneer pl 445 it does not lift the turnarm automaticly when lp comes to the end only manualy. The dealer let me have another pl445 but this new one did not sound nothing like the 1st so i tried to swop the cartridge but when i pulled out the headshell i saw that i had to unplug all the cart wires so i pushed it all back and kept the tt that does not lift the arm at the end but has a fantastic sound compared to the 2 one.
By the way does anyone know why the turnarm does not lift at the end?
 
Since parts are readily available even a beat up 1200 can be brought back to life or upgraded.

My 1200 is an early 80's vintage that I found in very rough shape in a pawnshop for $125. I disassembled everything and had an autobody shop refinish the plinth in gloss black with three coats of clear coat. Next came an Origin Live arm board and OL-1 arm (RB-250 based) w/ internal rewire and structural mods, then a new main bearing and dustcover. Finally I swapped the feet for metal spikes and changed the power wire to a shielded Volex cable.

I'm using it with a Clearaudio Melody MC cartridge and a Pass Labs Aleph ONO phono stage, and I don't consider it out of place with those components.
 

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Thks for inf but does the headshell just plug into the turnarm without any wiring issues...

The headshell should easily plug/screw into, and unplug/unscrew with from the arm. Sounds like the cartridge should already be installed, aligned, as well as wired to the headshell, from the way you are describing it. You'll need to verify with whom you are buying from though.

...i have a problem with my Pioneer pl 445 it does not lift the turnarm automaticly when lp comes to the end only manualy...
By the way does anyone know why the turnarm does not lift at the end?

Is it a manual table? Or semi-auto? If manual, then it's not designed to lift. If semi-auto, it could be a host of things and I could only give you wild guesses and not be much help.

The SL-1200 is a manual table and also will not lift at the end.

...The dealer let me have another pl445 but this new one did not sound nothing like the 1st so i tried to swop the cartridge but when i pulled out the headshell i saw that i had to unplug all the cart wires so i pushed it all back...

That should not be the case- unless you are trying to swap carts to different headshells.
 
Since parts are readily available even a beat up 1200 can be brought back to life or upgraded.

My 1200 is an early 80's vintage that I found in very rough shape in a pawnshop for $125. I disassembled everything and had an autobody shop refinish the plinth in gloss black with three coats of clear coat. Next came an Origin Live arm board and OL-1 arm (RB-250 based) w/ internal rewire and structural mods, then a new main bearing and dustcover. Finally I swapped the feet for metal spikes and changed the power wire to a shielded Volex cable.

I'm using it with a Clearaudio Melody MC cartridge and a Pass Labs Aleph ONO phono stage, and I don't consider it out of place with those components.


Nice work indeedy!

I'm hopefully landing two SL-1200 tables soon that have seen better days.

I plan on re-finishing in a silver-metallic moss green and the other in light burnt orange metallic.

I'd like to do an RB250 arm, or SME 3009 S2 Improved, or M5G arm with KAB fluid damper, or Sony PUA-7 arm.


How do you like the RB250 on your table?

And did you incorporate an on-the-fly VTA adjustment into it?
 
The headshell should easily plug/screw into, and unplug/unscrew with from the arm. Sounds like the cartridge should already be installed, aligned, as well as wired to the headshell, from the way you are describing it. You'll need to verify with whom you are buying from though.



Is it a manual table? Or semi-auto? If manual, then it's not designed to lift. If semi-auto, it could be a host of things and I could only give you wild guesses and not be much help.

The SL-1200 is a manual table and also will not lift at the end.



That should not be the case- unless you are trying to swap carts to different headshells.

The pl 445 tt is full auto but after couple months stoped lifting.The 2nd was exactly the same but sound was very thin and had much more background noise this is hearing the same lp.
That is why i tried to swop the carts,headshell and cart came apart but the wires that connect to the cart went into the turnarm so i assemble everything because i was scared to not beeing able to do this right.
From what i can gather the 1200 is plug n play correct.
 
The pl 445 tt is full auto but after couple months stoped lifting...

Some of these use a rubber o-ring that rots and falls off or stretches. Or it could be a broken piece of plastic gearing.

Service manuals are available online at vinylengine or specialty manual shops.


...The 2nd was exactly the same but sound was very thin and had much more background noise this is hearing the same lp....

Something wrong then with the second TT.

...i tried to swop the carts,headshell and cart came apart but the wires that connect to the cart went into the turnarm...

And that's probably it- sounds like a rigged setup.

...From what i can gather the 1200 is plug n play correct.

Buy a pre-adjusted cart/headshell and screw it in and yes, it's plug and play.

Though it's not too hard to install a cart yourself.
 
My primary turntable for spinning stereo LPs and 45s is a KAB Technics SL-1200MK5 with:

Cardas tonearm rewire
Tonearm Dampener
78 rpm mod
Outboard power supply
Ortofon ProS40 integrated headshell/cartridge

Audiophile quality??? Yeah, you better believe it!

might we see a pic?
 
Nice work indeedy!

I'm hopefully landing two SL-1200 tables soon that have seen better days.

I plan on re-finishing in a silver-metallic moss green and the other in light burnt orange metallic.

I'd like to do an RB250 arm, or SME 3009 S2 Improved, or M5G arm with KAB fluid damper, or Sony PUA-7 arm.


How do you like the RB250 on your table?

And did you incorporate an on-the-fly VTA adjustment into it?

Thanks.

Yes, I forgot to mention I also used a Origin Live VTA collar, it's a must have IMO. I've read comments on other sites from people who found the Rega/1200 combo to be less than ideal, but I'm very pleased with this setup. It's definitely a huge step up from stock. Perhaps there is some merit to the Origin Live arm board and structural mods versus other designs.
 
I've heard positive and negative comments about the arm swap myself, but the Origin Live swap seems to always satisfy.

I'd love to see close-ups of the VTa system if you don't mind.


Any plans on going outboard with the power supply?
 
I've heard positive and negative comments about the arm swap myself, but the Origin Live swap seems to always satisfy.

I'd love to see close-ups of the VTa system if you don't mind.


Any plans on going outboard with the power supply?

There's isn't much to see when it's installed, but you can see it between the arm base and the OL board. A thick round spacer is sandwiched between the bottom of the arm board and the locking nut to provide depth for the VTA collar. I ended up using some epoxy to hold the spacer in place. Something I found interesting was that OL's instructions state not to crank on the locking nut, and to just leave it finger tight for energy dissipation.

An outboard PS is definitely on my shopping list. I was thinking about a Time Step unit, but there's another unity by Paul Hynes Design which is being discussed on another forum right now that I want to check out as well. I also have a SL-150mk2 project table on the go and apparently I can use a 1200 PS on it as well.
 

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Ok, ready to pull the trigger on the 1200. Coming from a Technics SL-BD20, with a P-mount cartridge, will the 1200 be difficult to set up?
 
Ok, ready to pull the trigger on the 1200. Coming from a Technics SL-BD20, with a P-mount cartridge, will the 1200 be difficult to set up?

Compared to a P mount? Yes.

Like driving automatic and then trying standard.

But in the grand scheme of things, not that difficult at all.


And it'll be worth it- I had a BD20, many moons ago, and the 1200 will make it seem like going from a Suzuki Samurai to a Hummer.
 
Ok, ready to pull the trigger on the 1200. Coming from a Technics SL-BD20, with a P-mount cartridge, will the 1200 be difficult to set up?

I have an SL1200 Mk2 and it's super easy to set up.

The VTA is a breeze, they give you a gauge so you don't need a protractor.

You can install a cart and set it up properly in less than 10 minutes.

Make sure you use a level on it as well, I just put a small level on the platter and rotate it to check both ways.

And I whole heartedly recommend the Denon HOMC carts.
 
You get that alignment gauge and follow instructions. Not too much more difficult to do and you gain in flexibility and reliable options. You'll love the SL-1200 the more you use it. With care, you can also hand it down to future generations. My 5 year old owns a KAB modified example of his own. He's off to a proper start for a lifetime love of fine music, playing it and listening to it. Erik is cool as is his 15 month old adopted colleague Bjorn, both kids have spina bifida. When tired and stressed, they don't have to be hauled to the concert, the concert can come to them on their schedule. They both love music and fine sounds! Music on Daddy's lap is priceless.
 
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