Hi, new member here. Might be a dumb question but here we go. Im meeting a guy to possibly buy a fisher 500c. I want to obviously test it out first so I was planning on just hooking it up to a power inverter from my car outlet. Just wondering if there is any risk of damaging the unit by testing it this way. Thanks!
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audiocrzy
Super Member
I don’t think using an inverter will do any damage to the 500c but might not be good for your cars electrical system. The question is when was it powered up last? If it’s been a long time it would be best to bring it up slowly using a Variac. It will have a better chance of survival.
I’m sure others will chime in and give you a more accurate answer.
I’m sure others will chime in and give you a more accurate answer.
century tek
Addicted Member
An inverter might not hurt anything but you have to look at the inverters max wattage rating and look at the Fisher's max wattage rating. If the Fisher consumes more than the ratings of the inverter, you will fry the inverter.
Aside from that, it creates a modified sine wave and if one has the wattage to push the Fisher, you might experience hum.
Aside from that, it creates a modified sine wave and if one has the wattage to push the Fisher, you might experience hum.
The seller said that they powered it on today and said the volume works but does not turn off with the knob. Is this an expensive fix?
Fisher 500-C draws 275 watts at full power.
To be honest, ANY piece of vintage gear you buy these days is going to need some work These things are 60 years old. If the transformers are good then it can be restored, but can caps, coupling caps, switches and pots are probably all going to need some work. The tuner section may be out of wack. The parts are obtainable and aren't that expensive, but if the unit has never been worked on, I seriously would not expect it to be in plug-n-play condition. Again, if it's all original and hasn't been serviced in the past 10 years, I would expect to spend minimum $200-300 to have it checked out by a reputable tech.
To be honest, ANY piece of vintage gear you buy these days is going to need some work These things are 60 years old. If the transformers are good then it can be restored, but can caps, coupling caps, switches and pots are probably all going to need some work. The tuner section may be out of wack. The parts are obtainable and aren't that expensive, but if the unit has never been worked on, I seriously would not expect it to be in plug-n-play condition. Again, if it's all original and hasn't been serviced in the past 10 years, I would expect to spend minimum $200-300 to have it checked out by a reputable tech.
Ok good to know. Yea I’m expecting to have to put some money into it to get it up to par. Thanks so much for the response. Anyone have any recommendations on a good tech in the LA area?
No, I don't, but someone else will. I think there's a forum for that. Good luck. Properly restored, a 500-C is like an antique violin, it plays beautiful music.
To fix the power switch you might need a donor :
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/fisher-500c-power-switch.26263/
There is a new production on ebay
Otherwize, mount a new powerswitch somewhere on the front panel or make some other arrangements.
Last edited by a moderator:
Tim D
Super Member
I'd be asking questions about the units history.
Has it been in recent use or has it been sitting?
How long has the current owner owned it and what does he/she know about it?
Does the current owner know if there was any work done on the unit?
Does it come with a wood case? (Adds a lot of value)
Does it have a full set of tubes? Are they all original Fisher branded?
How does it look on the outside? Damage? Corrosion? Other?
What parts can you see that don't look original?
Given time with the unit it is important to check that the transformers are all good. (Next best thing is to power it up and check that it works right without digging deep. (Note that it isn't generally recommended to power up a unit that hasn't be checked by a technician, but when buying unknowns there is only so much you can visually inspect.)
Check that it has the right fuse (3.2amp slow blow).
Any tubes that are white have lost vacuum. Tubes that are brown on top are well used, but that doesn't mean they are about to fail. Silver on top is normal.
If you power it up while there, check that the can capacitors don't get hot and that both channels play and sound right. Check that the tuner pulls in stations (might need to put a wire on the antenna terminal.) If you detect problems, check that all tubes are lighting up.
The power switch is a very common part to fail on these. Sometimes you can work around them if it is a DPDT by jumping both switches together (don't remember if 500C is one of those.) It can be a bit pricy to repair, but IMHO it is worth it. There are places to get the switch fixed, buy replacement switches or the whole volume control with switch is available. Again that is a bit pricy.
We can't talk price here (that goes in the Dollars and Sense forum), but you will have to determine what is a good price for you and decide once you understand what you are buying.
Note that you can get more targeted answers on Fisher equipment in the Fisher forum. It's easy to ask an admin to move your thread if you decide you want to move it.
Has it been in recent use or has it been sitting?
How long has the current owner owned it and what does he/she know about it?
Does the current owner know if there was any work done on the unit?
Does it come with a wood case? (Adds a lot of value)
Does it have a full set of tubes? Are they all original Fisher branded?
How does it look on the outside? Damage? Corrosion? Other?
What parts can you see that don't look original?
Given time with the unit it is important to check that the transformers are all good. (Next best thing is to power it up and check that it works right without digging deep. (Note that it isn't generally recommended to power up a unit that hasn't be checked by a technician, but when buying unknowns there is only so much you can visually inspect.)
Check that it has the right fuse (3.2amp slow blow).
Any tubes that are white have lost vacuum. Tubes that are brown on top are well used, but that doesn't mean they are about to fail. Silver on top is normal.
If you power it up while there, check that the can capacitors don't get hot and that both channels play and sound right. Check that the tuner pulls in stations (might need to put a wire on the antenna terminal.) If you detect problems, check that all tubes are lighting up.
The power switch is a very common part to fail on these. Sometimes you can work around them if it is a DPDT by jumping both switches together (don't remember if 500C is one of those.) It can be a bit pricy to repair, but IMHO it is worth it. There are places to get the switch fixed, buy replacement switches or the whole volume control with switch is available. Again that is a bit pricy.
We can't talk price here (that goes in the Dollars and Sense forum), but you will have to determine what is a good price for you and decide once you understand what you are buying.
Note that you can get more targeted answers on Fisher equipment in the Fisher forum. It's easy to ask an admin to move your thread if you decide you want to move it.
adnick
Addicted Member
That’s a highly sought after item....
Maybe I missed it, and I’m not familiar enough with the 500C, but many Fisher amps need speakers connected, (or load resistors) when powered up....
I’d want to use a dim bulb tester, and it takes a heck of a incandescent light bulb.....
Many put a power cord with built in switch so the original switch doesn’t have to be used to turn the unit on/off.
My preference is to use one of these with my tube gear, use it as an off/on switch and it protects the tube devices from power interruptions: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XU5MEG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck,
Andy
Maybe I missed it, and I’m not familiar enough with the 500C, but many Fisher amps need speakers connected, (or load resistors) when powered up....
I’d want to use a dim bulb tester, and it takes a heck of a incandescent light bulb.....
Many put a power cord with built in switch so the original switch doesn’t have to be used to turn the unit on/off.
My preference is to use one of these with my tube gear, use it as an off/on switch and it protects the tube devices from power interruptions: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XU5MEG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck,
Andy
Moderator notified me that ebay links was inappropiate. It won't be repeated.
However, switching mains in the combined volume pot and mains breaker is a bad idea and should
be avoided.
If one don't want to cut a hole in the front panel then use one of the switches ( mpx-filter maybe)
to control a relay switching the mains. A 9v battery 2 diodes and a resistor from the -22V would
power the relay . ( the battery powers the relay and when the -22 comes up it will keep the
relay energized) The exact implementation is left to the knowledgeable owner.
However, switching mains in the combined volume pot and mains breaker is a bad idea and should
be avoided.
If one don't want to cut a hole in the front panel then use one of the switches ( mpx-filter maybe)
to control a relay switching the mains. A 9v battery 2 diodes and a resistor from the -22V would
power the relay . ( the battery powers the relay and when the -22 comes up it will keep the
relay energized) The exact implementation is left to the knowledgeable owner.
yes, and its a common one. Using one of those cord switches that some lamps use is another one.
Don't do it, power it up correctly in your home with a DBT and a variac. You'll be glad you did. My 2 cents. Al
Great, you're on your way.
