tensleep
Addicted Member
What a way to spend your 10k post. Those cabinets are going to SHAKE the whole house, loaded like that.
The biggest Speaker cabinets I have ever seen !
- Thread starter Stephen J
- Start date
What a way to spend your 10k post. Those cabinets are going to SHAKE the whole house, loaded like that.
Stephen J
Suum Cuique
How about an idea of how to make 2 SP15's work in each cab ? or what my results may be ?
I will be using the SM120A / 1824M for the mids,and either ST350's or T350's for tweets.
At this point other AK'ers are suggesting DUAL SP15's....whatta ya think Gordon? :scratch2:
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Dual SP15s in each cabinet, F3 of 32Hz, no messing around required. Tune the cabinet to 33 Hz (two 8" diameter vents 2" long per cabinet, or three 5" diameter holes cut into a 3/4" thick baffle with NO vent pipes, will do it).
BTW: You want something that could potentially make a K-horn run and hide? This may be it. 101dB sensitivity at 1 watt!! And with dual 15", it can handle some POWER. That, with the SM120A horn and ST350 tweeters (which, BTW, will bolt onto the front of the SM120A), would be the serious shiznits...
Regards,
Gordon.
BTW: You want something that could potentially make a K-horn run and hide? This may be it. 101dB sensitivity at 1 watt!! And with dual 15", it can handle some POWER. That, with the SM120A horn and ST350 tweeters (which, BTW, will bolt onto the front of the SM120A), would be the serious shiznits...
Regards,
Gordon.
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Stephen J
Suum Cuique
Well then,seems to me the educated consensus is " Dual SP15's "
So Dual SP15's it will be ! :yes:
Comments and suggestions welcomed !
To be continued...............
If you're running them in parallel (both up into the mids- i.e, both up to the point where they cross over to the mid horn), then you want to run them vertically aligned (one above the other). That will make the dispersion wider in the side-to-side direction, and narrower vertically. This will match the 120A horn better, and lead to a sound that is more consistent everywhere in the room.
This is a practice that Tom Holman of THX expounded on quite a lot; stacked woofers DO give a dispersion pattern that is easier to match to a horn. This is why most THX speakers had dual woofers stacked- at least in the days where THX were building most of the THX-approved stuff themselves. It is a practice that works.
Regards,
Gordon.
This is a practice that Tom Holman of THX expounded on quite a lot; stacked woofers DO give a dispersion pattern that is easier to match to a horn. This is why most THX speakers had dual woofers stacked- at least in the days where THX were building most of the THX-approved stuff themselves. It is a practice that works.
Regards,
Gordon.
Only if you run one of each pair in "0.5" mode to extend the bass response.... :nono:
Stephen J
Suum Cuique
Seems you gentlemen are like minded on this subject. And saying so almost simultaneously to boot.
Thank you ! I needed that ! :yes:
I pulled all the old fiberglass insulation out of 'em today. These are gonna need some work. They only have one real brace in each cabinet. A 2x4 running from side to side 'bout halfway up the back.
I'm thinking I will brace from the inside, and ad another layer of plywood to the outside of the sides.
What type of wood glue,brand etc. is recommended ?
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Jailtime
Standin' on a corner
I'm afraid!
ara: I heard these with one SP15 in the untuned cab that was around 9 cu. ft. The SP15s were impressive loaded that way. I can't imagine what two will be like in a properly tuned cab. Hell of a driver, no matter how you slice it.
Stephen J
Suum Cuique
A couple of good reasons....
..for rebuilding these cabs.
The design looks cool,but the build quality.....not so much. A lot of patchwork.
Aside from an almost total lack of framework or bracing,it looks like someone neglected to "measure twice,cut once".
It looks like they cut the holes for the SP12C's too big to start with,so they cut some rings out of particle board and glued them in place. (pic 1)
One bolt on each 12'' driver had to have a clearance notch cut into the frame.(pic 2)
The 30'' driver didn't have enough clearance on the bottom so the wood was gouged out of the frame to make them fit.(pic 3) The frame of the driver must have rested on the frame.
Oh yeah,that one lonely 2 x 4.....glued in,no screws !
..for rebuilding these cabs.
The design looks cool,but the build quality.....not so much. A lot of patchwork.
Aside from an almost total lack of framework or bracing,it looks like someone neglected to "measure twice,cut once".
It looks like they cut the holes for the SP12C's too big to start with,so they cut some rings out of particle board and glued them in place. (pic 1)
One bolt on each 12'' driver had to have a clearance notch cut into the frame.(pic 2)
The 30'' driver didn't have enough clearance on the bottom so the wood was gouged out of the frame to make them fit.(pic 3) The frame of the driver must have rested on the frame.
Oh yeah,that one lonely 2 x 4.....glued in,no screws !
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Stephen J
Suum Cuique
:scratch2: Don't look like its gonna work out that way !
Hunting blind anyone ?
Tomorrow I'm going to re-frame and brace them using 2 x 4's
Coming Soon : My Big Azz EV Build !
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Stephen J
Suum Cuique
Not as of yet,kinda wingin' it at this point. I'm hoping to be to the baffle stage by next week end.
I can knock out a drawing as soon as I'm sure of measurements / placement etc.
Thanks Dennis.
I didn't really mean "drawings" to sound that official. I mean layout. Don't have to be done on CAD, but a general idea of what you want. Need to know what size holes you are looking for to see if the jig will fit.
Do you have any way of ripping new plywood for the baffle board?
Do you have any way of ripping new plywood for the baffle board?
Stephen J
Suum Cuique
I have a circular saw,and a jig saw.And I do have a general idea of what I want.
2 15'' holes,a rectangular hole for the SM120A ( 26" wide x 8 1/2" tall ) and three 5" diameter ports.
I'm not sure on tweeter placement just yet !:scratch2:
Here's a first draft,pretty close to scale I think...I used a paper scale...
Each line is approx. 3"
On tweeter placement : Gordon mentioned mounting them like the Sentry IV
I was thinkin' more like the Sentry 3 except Mirror Imaged ?...:scratch2:
Anyone care to share their thoughts on this ?
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perchdog
AudioDouchebag
I have a circular saw,and a jig saw.And I do have a general idea of what I want.
2 15'' holes,a rectangular hole for the SM120A ( 26" wide x 8 1/2" tall ) and three 5" diameter ports.
I'm not sure on tweeter placement just yet !:scratch2:
Here's a first draft,pretty close to scale I think...I used a paper scale...
Each line is approx. 3"
On tweeter placement : Gordon mentioned mounting them like the Sentry IV
I was thinkin' more like the Sentry 3 except Mirror Imaged ?...:scratch2:
Anyone care to share their thoughts on this ?
if you want it layed out i can do in cad pretty easy. i can show just about any option you want. i also have a pair of sentry 3's on either side of computer so little guess work would be involved with horn and tweeter foot prints