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The Official SOTA Turntable Thread

4-2-7 said:
Did you mess with the 4 screws on the underside that atach to the springs and changes this distance? and in english what's .3"
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Dan - no I have not touched the springs (I know better than that). All I did was re-do the mass loading in the tonearm well to get everything level and balanced.

Subchassis hangs down between 1/4 and 3/8 inch from bottom of plinth. As far as I can tell it is setup perfectly
 
Nutsfortubes said:
.3"=1/3"
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well it that's correct...it's wrong

mprince said:
Subchassis hangs down between 1/4 and 3/8 inch from bottom of plinth. As far as I can tell it is setup perfectly
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That hight is good and the platter should not be close enough to rub the top of the motor. The table should be able to bounce down to the feet without touching the motor. I have a feeling you only think it's rubbing there. Pull the motor/switch cover and run the table. I have a feeling the motor puly is rubbing on the switch cover.
 
4-2-7 said:
Tip, on the bottom of the motor is a screw that adjust the shaft the the puly is glued and pressed onto. There is also a corresponding hole in the subchassis for adjustment. If the pully is rubing on the underside surface or hitting the motor cover make your adjustment here.
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IMG_0869.JPG
 
The platter is rubbing the motor, not the plinth or switch cover, that's the first place I looked. Platter is centered on the plinth cutout. The motor has a shiny spot on its housing directly below the bottom edge of the platter where there is contact.

The pulley is not rubbing either, I ran the table with the belt disconnected and the motor is silent. With the belt disconnected, I spun the platter and while it spins smoothly, I can see it rubbing the motor housing.

I'm stumped.
 
Couple pictures. If you zoom in on the overhead shot of the platter you can see the motor (with rub mark) poking out from the edge of the switch plate.
20170926_200149.jpg 20170926_200217.jpg 20170926_200235.jpg
 
mprince said:
I'm stumped.
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Me too.....

Photos and or vids would be nice.

two things,
1) Pull the platter and look at the underside, it has a plastic cover, it can warp and start to come unglued, make sure it's not falling down onto the motor and is flat.

Tightening the 4 spring screws will raise the sub chassis and give more clearance, and you can adjust them equally. But my tables are set up like yours and the only time the platter hits the motor is when I clamp the record down but it also hits the top of the feet. I just checked and the platters push down around 1/2- 5/8"

Do you have a gap of around 1/8-3/16 between your motor board and the underside of the plinth?

IMG_2952.jpg IMG_2949.jpg IMG_2923.jpg
 
I'll pull the platter, I don't remember any plastic on the underside but I'll check. I also have the square (vs round) platter base, I will try to reinstall 180 degrees of where it is now and see if that helps too.

I'll check the other stuff too, probably won't be till morning as it's a bit late for it on the east coast now.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated!
 
mprince said:
I also have the square (vs round) platter base,
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That is your bearing, be careful with it and it should be locked down while working on the table. When you do pull the platter, take a bunch of photos so I can see the inside, platter and all related parts.
 
Ok this is bugging me so I pulled the platter. Nothing on the underside (bearing is locked with transit screws). So it's the edge of the platter hitting the motor.

From top of motor board to bottom of plinth is more like 5/8" on mine.

I'm going to rotate the platter 180° when I reinstall, see if that helps at all.
 

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Fixed - I tightened the suspension equally on all 4 springs and have some clearance, a level sub chassis/platter and all is well. Thanks so much Dan!
 
Got a package from SOTA today - in a couple weeks I'll have the Audiomods arm to mount. This armboard makes the wood armboard feel like a piece of paper.

20171004_153633.jpg
 
Nutsfortubes said:
How much was the armbord?
I have the aluminum one now and was think of changing it.
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Its the Composite (3 layers of acrylic with aluminum) board, not the Cosmos (which adds lead). Donna re-classed it as b-stock as there is a minor blemish on the top of the board - think I paid $228 plus shipping (I got a few other things too) and they drilled it for the Audiomods. I can't see the blemish unless I look for it, they buffed most of it out. It seems a lot thicker than the wood board my Sumiko is mounted to now, it definitely weighs a lot more. Now I just need the arm, my MC cartridge is too heavy for the Sumiko so I have a Grado mounted on it for the time being (which sounds great).
 
I recall a comment during Linn setup training that "Every Sapphire has a cracked bearing disc." Has anyone looked down the hole? I have not. The story was once you ship the unit and release the shipping screws, the bearing cracks.[/QUOTE]
Thats something Trump would say.
 
My SOTA moved 10 times since I have owned it including to Israel and back. That cracked bearing disc sounds wonderful ha ha ha.
Once a year I put a stethoscope to the table and it is quiet as a mouse been running since 1985. FWIW I worked at a Linn dealer at the time for 3 years and took the SOTA in a trade for an LP12 Troka,Ekios deck after setting up the Linn and listening to against the SOTA a bought the SOTA from the store and I could have gotten the Linn for less then wholesale at the time.
 
Audiofreak71 said:
I think your right, I just picked up Mr Pigs Marcmorinfied AR XA and it's excellent in every way. I may think about letting go of my Ariston rd 40 that's fully customized as well and source a Sota.
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I modded my RD40 back in the 80's and it sounded great.
I then borrowed a pre Nirvana/Valhalla LP12 with an LVX and Glanz GMC10LX and it blew the RD40 out of the water. The Sota is at least as good as a well setup Linn,( Not a $30k one, as I've not heard one) if not better.
 
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