Patiently hunting eBay
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The Official SOTA Turntable Thread
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- sota star sapphire sumiko
Davron94
Well-Known Member
No, I already have a Sota Sapphire, I'm talking about the head amp. I could use one of those!
I know and my statement stands.
Davron94
Well-Known Member
Oh, really, Fleabay? Alright, I'll keep a look out! Thanks!
saggy
These go to 11
Can anyone tell me anything about this mat? The original owner took the original mat off and replaced it with this. What does it do to the performance/value of the turntable? I don't know what mat it is but I'm wondering if I should have it replaced if I buy the turntable.
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Dan ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Peanut Head
A few years ago I purchased a second hand Moonbeam (in walnut) sans any cartridge.
For it's price, it impressed me...but I knew for a few more bucks thrown it's way that I could improve it.
First thing I did was ditch the factory feet. This table is NOT suspended and needed a footie upgrade.
I determined the thread size and ordered a set of Herbies Isolation Feet for it. More better!
The reason for the previous owner getting rid of the table was the platter's spindle hole was poorly drilled. Off center and crudely cut.
And quite honestly, I didn't like the sub-platter showing it's fanny....so I ordered a Music Hall Acrylic Platter...and it worked out perfectly.
Then the last thing I addressed was the Rega arm's plastic stud and lollipop weight, which put the center of gravity too high.
I ordered a stainless steel counter-sunk weight with stainless stub out of Croatia and it made a great entry level table even better.
I'm not a fan of DC motors and this one uses a 24 pole AC synchro motor. I don't think I could have done better for the money spent.
For it's price, it impressed me...but I knew for a few more bucks thrown it's way that I could improve it.
First thing I did was ditch the factory feet. This table is NOT suspended and needed a footie upgrade.
I determined the thread size and ordered a set of Herbies Isolation Feet for it. More better!
The reason for the previous owner getting rid of the table was the platter's spindle hole was poorly drilled. Off center and crudely cut.
And quite honestly, I didn't like the sub-platter showing it's fanny....so I ordered a Music Hall Acrylic Platter...and it worked out perfectly.
Then the last thing I addressed was the Rega arm's plastic stud and lollipop weight, which put the center of gravity too high.
I ordered a stainless steel counter-sunk weight with stainless stub out of Croatia and it made a great entry level table even better.
I'm not a fan of DC motors and this one uses a 24 pole AC synchro motor. I don't think I could have done better for the money spent.
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sqlsavior
Lunatic Member
That looks like an anti-static mat that has conductive fibers in the felt. If you have a metal platter, and do NOT have static, I'd keep it.
Thanks for posting this so others can see how it can be modded. If I was in this market I would rather have the moonbeam over most of the Regas and Projects.
I don't know if you have room for it but did you ever think of getting the Michell VTA adjuster?
They come in black or silver
http://www.michell-engineering.co.uk/tonearms/new-rega-3-point-vta-adjuster/
Found this tonight. 2015 interview with Kirk and Donna Bodinet, owners of SOTA. Includes some good commentary on the Comet and Moonbeam tables and insight into the company's marketing philosophy (serve the consumer!)
http://www.furious.com/perfect/vinyl93.html
http://www.furious.com/perfect/vinyl93.html
I forgot one thing...several months ago I purchased a Souther Clever Clamp. This secures the record to the acrylic platter.
Kills any odd vibrations caused by interaction between the arm and record.
Glad you mentioned clamps!
I found a deal on a Reflex clamp and have been doing some A/B listening.
The clamp seems to help separate bass from drums and gives a subtle but noticeable definition to transients. It's a more "hi-fi" sound, if that makes sense. And dished records clamp flat which is definitely a plus.
SOTA offers the Reflex (above) and the I clamp (below).
They work, but honestly the vacuum clamping on the Star and other SOTA tables is very effective without a clamp.
saggy
These go to 11
Nice way to snag a solid table, and build from there. I paid a lot more for mine (it had arm and cart).
I have always been under the impression you have to use some clamp or rubber plug on the spindle to seal the hole in the record.
Dan ʕ•ᴥ•ʔ
Peanut Head
Nope!Michell VTA adjuster
Then it sounds like this is going to be expensive...
Never had to use a sealer for the vacuum to work on mine, but I have seen that reference also. Maybe it varies by series number?
If I'm not quick, the cartridge will nudge the edge of the Reflex clamp, though. Wish it was a hair narrower.
No but the hole in the records varies, and is a vacuum leak.
SME 309 arm should stop if set right, I have a jig that came with the series 5 arm. I'll take some photos and measurements. However if you have a really low ridding and fat cart body I can see you needing to push the measurement further out.
In fact do this, loosen the collar that clamps the arms column that you raise up and down for VTA, but don't loose your VTA. With the arm at rest push it towards the outside of the table (Right). Play a record starting at the end to watch it though the runout and see where it stops, if still to close, push the arm further to the right.