• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

The Official SOTA Turntable Thread

Nashou66 said:
It didn't have a head shell and I am not sure what type of arm it is.
Click to expand...

Congrats and welcome to the SOTA club. Your arm is a Sumiko Premier MMT.
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/sumiko/premier-mmt.shtml

Commonly used on SOTAs and ordered though them and installed on plug and play decks.

I don't see any feet on your table and it's sitting on a board, what's up with that?

I would just get the correct Sumiko head shell their on the bay all the time.

I would also put your Sumiko EVO III on this table.
 
Last edited:
the arm is very likely a Sumiko Premier MMT which is what MANY of these TTs have, like mine. for a headshell, i can strongly recommend the JELCO for strong, experienced based reasons.
1. dual retaining pins, one up, one down on the mounting shaft, for rigid mount to tonearm.
2. machined from magnesium alloy, one look and you will have confidence.
3. adjustable azimuth for those capable of accomplishing this task.
4. oxygen free litz wires from shell to cartridge. this yields better sound as the smaller the signal, the more wire quality affects sonic quality.

from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JELCO-HS-25...NG-/122563474104?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

the zupreme is essentially the same as the JELCO with a difference in the finger lift: https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&k...targid=kwd-288888391889&ref=pd_sl_p8yuek6xh_e

from music direct at a higher price (why? i don'tknow), same shell: https://www.musicdirect.com/analog-accessories/sumiko-hs-12-universal-replacement-headshell-wtools

i have numerous sumikos and zupremes bought when they weren't so expensive. my favorite all time headshell.

the less expensive ortofon and stanton branded shells are too malleable for my comfort. the more expensive space framed Orsonic is cool as are some of the wooden ones. i would stick with the jelco or zupreme.

the RB300 arm is also excellent but lacks the ability to adjust vta.
 
yep it's definitely a Sumiko premier mmt tonearm, really good arms when set up correctly. Make sure the bearing has no play, mine had this problem had to send it off to get fixed, but after that it's a very solid arm. Plus one on using the sumiko/Jelco headshells. Congratulations on the new table looks beautiful!.

IMG_5108.JPG IMG_5107.JPG
 
I was just thinking: isn't there a list online somewhere with SOTA serial numbers and the info about when/where the turntable was made, and by who? Is anyone familiar with that?
 
saggy said:
I was just thinking: isn't there a list online somewhere with SOTA serial numbers and the info about when/where the turntable was made, and by who? Is anyone familiar with that?
Click to expand...
No, early tables where made in Oakland CA, later ones after the owner change where made in illinois. You really have to look at these tables as hand built as needed. I'v had many here and only had two that where the same. They all will have some small changes in small parts to put them together over the long period of time they where made.
 
For any that are interested the Jelco SA-370H, is the Sumiko mmt tonearm. The 370 isn't sold with the turntable.
 
4-2-7 said:
Congrats and welcome to the SOTA club. Your arm is a Sumiko Premier MMT.
https://www.vinylengine.com/library/sumiko/premier-mmt.shtml

Commonly used on SOTAs and ordered though them and installed on plug and play decks.

I don't see any feet on your table and it's sitting on a board, what's up with that?

I would just get the correct Sumiko head shell their on the bay all the time.

I would also put your Sumiko EVO III on this table.
Click to expand...


The feet are there , the angle doesn't show them. But for now I am using a Kenwood head-shell and my Denon Dl-110
on an outdoor table i pulled off my deck so I could have a listen. I can now walk around with no skipping!!! but jumping up and down will cause it to skip.

here is a pic spinning some Dexter Gordon

35656532174_312e6a7851_h.jpg
 
Nashou66 said:
I can now walk around with no skipping!!! but jumping up and down will cause it to skip.
Click to expand...

A SOTA need to have a proper setup to used, they need to have the arm balances to the other three corners. and the table need to be placed and level the platter. It's not the type of table you can just carry around a willy nilly place down and use.

If you have some Teflon tap it will be good to used if you follow these instructions. Your feet look screwed in almost all the way, the fact is they act as bump stops for the sub chassis. Your skips are most likely coming from the sub hitting the feet.

Secure the arm with a twist tie. since you have a head shell take it off so you don't hurt your cart.
Tip the table on the motor side edge.
Unscrew the feet all the way off.
Sloppy cource threads benifet here with some Teflon tap
Re-tread them on but just a very little, one twist
Set the table back on it's feet.

Now level the platter, trying to use only one or two feet as little as posable. You need to have the platter level but you want to keep the rubber feet as far from the sub chassis as posable. This way as the platter, arm and sub bounce they will not come in contact with the feet (bump stops)

Look at this vid and how much I am pushing down on the table and how much travel I have.

 
Last edited:
4-2-7 said:
A SOTA need to have a proper setup to used, they need to have the arm balances to the other three corners. and the table need to be placed and level the platter. It's not the type of table you can just carry around a willy nilly place down and use.

If you have some Teflon tap it will be good to used if you follow these instructions. Your feet look screwed in almost all the way, the fact is they act as bump stops for the sub chassis. Your skips are most likely coming from the sub hitting the feet.

Secure the arm with a twist tie. since you have a head shell take it off so you don't hurt your cart.
Tip the table on the motor side edge.
Unscrew the feet all the way off.
Sloppy cource threads benifet here with some Teflon tap
Re-tread them on but just a very little, one twist
Set the table back on it's feet.

Now level the platter, trying to use only one or two feet as little as posable. You need to have the platter level but you want to keep the rubber feet as far from the sub chassis as posable. This way as the platter, arm and sub bounce they will not come in contact with the feet (bump stops)

Look at this vid and how much I am pushing down on the table and how much travel I have.

Click to expand...


Thanks I'll give that a try.

How do you adjust VTA on these arms?

Nashou
 
VTA is the amount off level (like 92 degrees vs 90 degrees) of the stylus. Azimuth is head shell rotation around the axis of the tonearm (to square and balance channel output).
 
wanders said:
VTA is the amount off level (like 92 degrees vs 90 degrees) of the stylus. Azimuth is head shell rotation around the axis of the tonearm (to square and balance channel output).
Click to expand...


Yes , I know what they are but for the VTA how is it adjusted on this Sumiko MMT arm?

Nashou
 
4-2-7 said:
I gave you the link to your owners manual at vinyl engine, sign up and download it.
Click to expand...


Oh I am a member and have the manual for the arm. But its unclear exactly where the adjustment is.

I opened up the feet distance from the base as you suggested and leveled the plinth and plater and now i can jump up and down and the thing just keeps on playing !!!!!

The manual would be great addition. I could buy one for $5 on the SOTA web site too .

Athanasios
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom