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The SL-110/Sl-1100 and SP owners club.

I don't think the SL-1200 tonearm assembly will work, but any standalone tonearm with less than ~295mm spindle to pivot distance will fit the SL-110/1100. You will need a new armboard, just use the existing one as a template.
Thank you so much for the quick reply.:)
 
Hi all. So I have an SL-1100 that i love. The other day, I was hanging a light fixture when the fixture dropped and hit the turntable barely, but hard, on the front edge. See picture. Now it seems to work only intermittently. Red Light is on, but pressing start/stop seems to have no result…sometimes. And no can’t figure out what triggers the “sometimes”. It just seems random. Any ideas?28BAC8F9-01D6-4030-869C-3A5DF2F71CD7.jpeg
 
Hi all. So I have an SL-1100 that i love. The other day, I was hanging a light fixture when the fixture dropped and hit the turntable barely, but hard, on the front edge. See picture. Now it seems to work only intermittently. Red Light is on, but pressing start/stop seems to have no result…sometimes. And no can’t figure out what triggers the “sometimes”. It just seems random. Any ideas?View attachment 2427141
The start/stop switch might have gotten damaged, IMO.
 
The start/stop switch might have gotten damaged, IMO.
Hi All - So still trying to trouble shoot my SL-1100. As reminder, it was struck on the very front edge and now works only intermittently - but seemingly randomly. It powers on with no problem, but will only start when it seems to want to.

I have thoroughly inspected the micro-switches, solder connections, board, even opened up the drive and made sure nothing was loose/blocking the magnets. I have replaced the two SS-5 microswitches in the start/stop assembly and checked continuity all the way to the circuit board. I have checked continuity on the two microswitches in the power/speed selection switch. I'd love to replace them, but I cant find replacements. (Matsushita AM9715 and Matsushita AM78909) Both seem to be working fine.

I have checked continuity on all pins on the board and don't see any obvious solder cracks/damage.

I have enough electrical knowledge to check continuity with a multi-meter, but to actually check each individual component on the board, i'd need some guidance.

Bottom line, all seems in order but it still only starts intermittently. I can't figure any rhyme or reason to why it does sometimes and why it doesn't other times. There is NO physical change from the times it starts to the times it doesn't start (I.e. it isn't jostled, moved, etc. The conditions are constant.)

I'm looking for ANY advice anyone can give. Really frustrated. Ready to part the whole thing out if I can't fix it.

Help!IMG_8948.jpgIMG_8970.JPGIMG_8972.JPGIMG_8973 2.JPGIMG_8988.JPG
 
Hi All - So still trying to trouble shoot my SL-1100. As reminder, it was struck on the very front edge and now works only intermittently - but seemingly randomly. It powers on with no problem, but will only start when it seems to want to.

I have thoroughly inspected the micro-switches, solder connections, board, even opened up the drive and made sure nothing was loose/blocking the magnets. I have replaced the two SS-5 microswitches in the start/stop assembly and checked continuity all the way to the circuit board. I have checked continuity on the two microswitches in the power/speed selection switch. I'd love to replace them, but I cant find replacements. (Matsushita AM9715 and Matsushita AM78909) Both seem to be working fine.

I have checked continuity on all pins on the board and don't see any obvious solder cracks/damage.

I have enough electrical knowledge to check continuity with a multi-meter, but to actually check each individual component on the board, i'd need some guidance.

Bottom line, all seems in order but it still only starts intermittently. I can't figure any rhyme or reason to why it does sometimes and why it doesn't other times. There is NO physical change from the times it starts to the times it doesn't start (I.e. it isn't jostled, moved, etc. The conditions are constant.)

I'm looking for ANY advice anyone can give. Really frustrated. Ready to part the whole thing out if I can't fix it.

Help!View attachment 2438787View attachment 2438788View attachment 2438789View attachment 2438790View attachment 2438791

When it doesn’t start have you tried nudging the platter quickly?
 
Hi all. So I have an SL-1100 that i love. The other day, I was hanging a light fixture when the fixture dropped and hit the turntable barely, but hard, on the front edge. See picture. Now it seems to work only intermittently. Red Light is on, but pressing start/stop seems to have no result…sometimes. And no can’t figure out what triggers the “sometimes”. It just seems random. Any ideas?View attachment 2427141
I had the same problem with mine in the past. Cleaning the switches and then replacing them didn't fix my issue. Then replacing the mechanism didn't work either (I didn't think it would but it was a cheap, quick try at a fix). Eventually I traced the circuit. I forget which one (I replaced them all), but one or more of the transistors on the board in your 4th pic controls the start/stop function. I also recapped the electrolytic on this board while I was in there. You may have a different issue, but if I remember correctly after looking up those transistors, they were prone to fail after this many years.The way that was designed is strange, but it worked.
 
SL-1100A a battleship of a turntable even a dj couldn't sink. Doubt you will ever again see build quality like this unless spending a fortune.
 
Somehow I've completely missed this thread! Need to spend more time in the TT forum I guess.

Here is my SL-1100A. I purchased it from the original owner's son five or six years ago (back when audio deals were still easy to find:)). I'm running a 681-EEE cartridge that came with the table. Great table that doesn't get much use, but I've never been really motivated to sell it. I have the original cover as well.
 

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40 years ago, I walked into a Linn dealer when direct drive turntables were definitely out of vogue there. They were, and for many still are, considered (O, I want to use a different word!) poor. I was able to buy an SL 110 with dust cover, with its stock, high-mass tonearm; an SME 309 Mk III on a separate armboard, and an uncut armboard for $125!. Nevertheless, I usually used my equally old Ariston RD 11, because I am an organ music fan, and the Ariston/ Mission 774/ Shure V15 IV offered no feedback and no tracking problems. Age has rendered that combination noisier--- the motor could use replacing, so I mounted a Denon 103 on the Technics arm, bought a 14" bicycle inner tube, filled it partially with air, and put it under a board on which I placed the turntable. Isolation problem solved. It has always been an easier turntable to use than the Ariston, and now matches it otherwise.

The reason for the inner tube mounting: In 1980, I was a sales rep for PSB speakers. At a trade show at the Constellation Hotel in Toronto, Paul Barton and I were setting up our best system: a pair of very rare Project B2 speakers, a pair of PSBs original passive subwoofers (which I still use in my main system), 2 4B Bryston amps, bridged (800 watts RMS/channel; one horsepower!), and an Oracle turntable. Paul tested the system by putting the stylus on a stationary record and turning up the volume. It howled like a banshee. The air-conditioning system for the wing was outside the window and causing the floating sub-chassis of the oracle to oscillate. Paul pulled the factory SL-110 from under a table and performed the same test- no problem. We ran with the Technics to the disgust of many dealers who entered the room.

To this day, that is the first test I run when setting up a system. Currently, my turntable is only 3’ from one speaker. It doesn’t pass the test without the inner tube.
 
Just purchased an SL-1100a it’s a great addition to my collection. Only issue is the power light bulb is burnt out. Anyone have an idea for a correct replacement bulb.
 
I media blasted mine and repainted it last year. Found a local print shop that made a stencil and had them relabel it. I can send you his info-his shop is in Framingham, Massachusetts.
 
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