The SL-110/Sl-1100 and SP owners club.
- Thread starter 68custom
- Start date
Victor UA-7045 or 7082 tonearm is one of the best. On the fly VTA and anti skate. I was working with an SME 3009 series 2 improved today and there is simply no comparison in quality or function. The Victor wipes the floor with it and you can find one at a good price if you look. I also own a Jelco 750DB and while it is nice, it just isn't as good.
rcjones74
New Member
I was wondering if someone could help me locate a manual or something with the exact mounting hole dimensions and locations for the SL110a armboard? I need to get a custom one made for a 12" tonearm.
I did find the manual, but doesn't have the dimensions / locations.
Thank you so much!
I did find the manual, but doesn't have the dimensions / locations.
Thank you so much!
rcjones74
New Member
I would be ever so greatful if someone could point me in the right direction to where I can locate the dimensions and hole locations etc of the armboard for the SL110a? I am looking at the Temaad tonearm but they need the dimensions of the armboard etc. I have the turntable, but don't feel comfortable enough measuring the hole locations on the turntable for the armboard. I would rather them have the exact dimensions.
Thanks!!!
Richard
Thanks!!!
Richard
Dneprrider
Active Member
Hi Richard,
Another Richard here and I have an SL1100 with the wooden arm board. This arm board has the same dimensions you require. It is not the easiest thing to measure with basic home measuring tools. So the accuracy is not as precise as you would get from a machinist, but hopefully is sufficient for your needs. I traced the outline onto cardboard and then used an awl to mark the holes. All measurements are taken from the bottom right corner. Since I have a tonearm fitted I had to make a cutout in the cardboard so just ignore that hole. All measurements are in metric, most are cm but one or two are mm. I hope this helps.
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JLange2010
Well-Known Member
Hi everyone. I have an SL 1100 that has been sitting for a few years unused. I recently went about getting it ready to use again, only to discover that the start switch seems to not be functioning. The power Is working, as can be seen by the strobe light activating when the button is pushed, but the turntable won’t spin. Everything seems otherwise OK, and I suspect the switch. Have any of you dealt with a similar issue, or otherwise might have input about how to resolve it?
Kit Carson
Active Member
J Deoxit contact cleaner might do the trick.
jcidave
Well-Known Member
The strobe light plugs into a house current outlet which is live as long as the power cord for the machine is plugged in. It has nothing to do with the electronics that run the platter motor. The red pilot light next to the speed selector switch should turn on whenever you select a speed. That is an indicator of power being on. My 1100 had a problem with a micro-switch operated by the slide switch which had to be replaced by my local tech. You can try the deoxit which is what you can do without going into the machine.
JLange2010
Well-Known Member
The slide/ speed selector switch is working fine and the red power light comes on. But no action when the start Switch is depressed. My repair skills tend to be limited to Deoxit and some very crude soldering. I’d give the Deoxit a try, but getting into the switch baffles me. I don’t dare try to pry off the switch button itself, unless I’m reassured that it won’t cause other damage. I’m otherwise unsure of how to deox the switch; spraying it around the sides of the switch cover seems unlikely to get the goods into where it needs to go. As the turntable is built like a tank, accessing the inner guts of the unit is pretty intimidating.
Prudence probably indicates that I’ll need to have someone more talented than I to get into it, but I thought I’d first ask here if anyone knows an easy way into that switch in order to Deox it. Beyond that, I’ll find a tech to deal with it.
Kit Carson
Active Member
J before you open the 1100 up try lubricating the start switch from the top. If it was working fine before you put it away for a few years it might just be a simple case of the contacts being corroded. Deoxit has bailed me out more than once. Might have to use a liberal amount, just keep paper towels handy and keep pressing the switch repeatedly. The Technics start/stop switches are pretty durable, some of the DJ tables switches were coated with beer, booze and who knows what else and kept functioning.
Luckiestman
New Member
Another culprit could be the large axial 470uf cap (C14) failing to charge up enough to get the table to spin.
hanze_de
New Member
hanze_de
New Member
Dear jetstream,
its double painted. i Tried it already and the problem ist , that the Logo printing is washed away as well. Thats why i m looking for a spare one.
Some people dont like the original and buy a marble or special wood one.
Best
Hannes
Millimetric
Member
Hey There, I’m starting my second sl1100 project and the new one I got (looks like trash right now) has a broken strobe light bulb, does anybody know of a good replacement bulb?
Since that one is in very bad shape I will repaint it and mod it to look a bit like an emt 938. I have a fidelity research tonearm on the way and will get a new plinth fabricated but a friend (metal welder) it will look a bit different but i thing it Will be fun
Since that one is in very bad shape I will repaint it and mod it to look a bit like an emt 938. I have a fidelity research tonearm on the way and will get a new plinth fabricated but a friend (metal welder) it will look a bit different but i thing it Will be fun
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orthophonic
Super Member
Back in the 70's when I was a DJ using these in a Disco, one of the lamps burned out, Technics wanted something like 70.00 for
a replacement that the club would not pay for. I pried the white plastic cover lens off and replaced the bulb with a neon bulb and resistor from radio shack and then glued the lens back on, worked great. A few months later, the other went out and I did the same repair. Don't remember the bulb #, but it looked like a standard neon bulb that Radio Shack sold.
The tables had been in constant use for about 7 or 8 years when the lamps burnt out. These had the original version of the lamps
that remained on all the time. The replacements and later versions had a small button you depressed and held to turn the light on.
a replacement that the club would not pay for. I pried the white plastic cover lens off and replaced the bulb with a neon bulb and resistor from radio shack and then glued the lens back on, worked great. A few months later, the other went out and I did the same repair. Don't remember the bulb #, but it looked like a standard neon bulb that Radio Shack sold.
The tables had been in constant use for about 7 or 8 years when the lamps burnt out. These had the original version of the lamps
that remained on all the time. The replacements and later versions had a small button you depressed and held to turn the light on.
Millimetric
Member
Fidelity research tonearm fr-24 showed up today at the same as an frs6 headshell with a dl103. Printed a tonearm plate to hide the hole in the board. Sounds already amazing.
Next will be disassembly for powdercoat and wait for the metal plinth to be fabricated.
Very excited about this project.
I love my first one I updated last year.
Next will be disassembly for powdercoat and wait for the metal plinth to be fabricated.
Very excited about this project.
I love my first one I updated last year.
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Luckiestman
New Member
Nice work on the tonearm plate - it looks great! I'm constantly amazed out how great a sound my one produces - the sound is alive and soundstage is 3D holographic! I bought and played Paul Simon's self-titled LP (used CBS original) the other night and the soundstage and vitality it delivered for hits like Me and Julio, Mother and child reunion, Peace like a river beats the digital versions hands down! It creates a magical experience using the stock tonearm that quite a few people online recommend replacing without explaining what it does so poorly.
Kit Carson
Active Member
Luckiestman at this stage preserving these early direct drive tables in their original form as much as possible should be the goal. Failure wasn't an option for Panasonic/Technics and they threw everything but the kitchen sink into the design and materials of the table. Given a well recorded album and compatible cartridge they stand up to the test of time holding their own against newer tables.