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JayPare

Active Member
Foreword
Since Caig Laboratories now have a lot of different products and The Idiot's Guide to Using DeOxit (revisited) is becoming a bit old, I decided to do a shortened version of it with spoilers for those who want more information. Also, I added a definitions part for word underlined and in italic so definitions are not mixed up with the procedure.

*** IMPORTANT ***
Please feel free to add any comments or suggestions to improve this guide.
I do not pretend to be the Deoxit master.
Also, please point me any typos.

Material
  • Screwdrivers
  • Allen keys
    Not always needed but some knobs are tightened with small allen screw.
  • Small brushes
    Those are more and more common on the market with the apparition of stainless straw. You can usually find some on Amazon (look for "pipe brushes"), use a mascara brush or even some Q-tips (be sure to get quality ones so they don't disintegrates easily). Craig Laboratories (Deoxit maker) are also selling some brushes.
  • Can of compressed air or an air compressor
    You can usually find can of compressed air in technology store where they sell computers.
  • Deoxit D100
    From this post from "DeOxit is BAD for pots???" thread, Deoxit D5 solvent is not recommended on pots:
    The DeoxIT DN5S-6N spray would be fine [for potentiometers], however, the DeoxITR 100% spray (D100S) would be the preferred choice.
    The carbon may be damaged by the solvent in the 5% solution. It is more likely to occur if the carbon is worn to begin with. The 100% spray has much less solvent and is OK for potentiometers.
    Therefore, some newer potentiometers could be fine with Deoxit D5, but since most of the people here do this job on vintage device, it may be best to not take any chances.
  • Deoxit Fader (formerly Faderlube) F100
    From this website Fader F5 can also damage the carbon track on Vintage potentiometers:
    There is some discussion about using Deoxit Fader F5 on vintage pots as one of the chemicals contained in the flushing solution is known to degrade the carbon in the pots, thus degrading them over time until they become useless.
  • Deoxit Gold G100 (optional)
    G100 is recommended for maintenance purpose. From Caig email:
    As to the Gold, this would be a later down the road maintenance product for the metal only. Once you have cleaned the metals by applying DeoxIT D100 as outlined above, you can maintain the equipment with the Gold. For example, a year or so down the road (likely longer) after you originally restored the equipment with D100, you may decide that it needs another quick shot of maintenance… possibly a little noise or scratchy pot. In this case, as we know the oxidation will not be too severe having already used D100 previously, using the Gold will get your metals up to the highest conductive efficiencies and provide protection from contaminants.
Steps

From Caig Deoxit Instructions (attachements):
If you enjoy cleaning your contacts and connectors on a regular basis, [just do the Deoxit D100 steps]. If however you prefer using you equipment rather than maintaining it, [proceed with Deoxit Fader and Deoxit Gold too].

They respectively add long lasting protection and lubrification.

  1. IMPORTANT : UNPLUG DEVICE.
    Do not skip this step. You risk shorting component and wreck you device.
  2. Open the electronic device.
    I will talk more concerning receivers and amplifiers here. Other device opening procedure can usually be find easily with a Google search.

    Most of the time you will need to only remove the top cover to do the job.If you don't have access to the potentiometers at this point, you may have to remove the below cover, or even the front face plate (most of the time you won't need to do this though). To remove front face place, you will have to remove carefully all the buttons in front of the receiver, so all switch caps and all knobs. Sometimes push button cap can stay there as they pass through the faceplate.

    Please note some knobs have a hex screw to lock them on the shaft. Also, for tighter knobs, you can use two spoons as levers to help you removes knobs.
  3. Potentiometers
    Since it's hard to tell if potentiometers are truely carbon contacts (if anyone know how to identify them let me know in the comments), it's hard to know if you should use Deoxit D100 on them. A lot of people use it without any issue but it can apparently harm carbon contacts potentiometers. Therefore you can proceed using the following method.
    1. Clean potentiometers with compressed air.
      Spray small shot of compressed air (about 2 sec.) in every opening you find on every potentiometers.
    2. Work them with Deoxit Fader F100.
      Spray small shot of Deoxit Fader F100 in every opening you find on every potentiometers and work them from one end to the other a dozen of times. This will help to get rid of all the oxidation and crap in them. Be sure to do one at the time since the solution evaporate quickly and it's best to work components in the next seconds after you spray it.
    3. Let dry. Also really important. You don't want any liquid to short components.
      It's best to let the stuff dry completely before plugging in you device. Most of the time, I wait around 30 minutes, but some people only waits around 10 minutes without getting issues. The more you wait the safer you are though. Caig Chemicals (Deoxit maker) recommend wiping the excess liquid and wait 2 minutes, but IMHO this is a really short time to let everything dry.
    4. Test. If working fine, you're done with the potentiometer part.
      Plug the device and test the potentiometers you just cleaned.
    5. If potentiometers are not working fine, work them with Deoxit D100 the same way you did with Deoxit Fader F100.
    6. Rework them with Deoxif Fader F100.
    7. Work them with a little bit of G100 (optionnal).
      This will add a protective coat on the metal and enhance the contact. If you do this, be sure potentiometers are not carbon contacts. I honestly don't do that step.
  4. Work all switches and sliders with a small spray of Deoxit D100.
    Spray small shot of Deoxit (about 1 sec.) in every opening you find in every switches and sliders and work them from one end to the other a dozen of times. This will help to get rid of all the oxidation and crap in them. Be sure to do one at the time since the solution evaporate quickly and it's best to work components in the next seconds after you spray it.
  5. For plastic components like sliders, add small shots of Deoxit Fader F100 in opening and work them to lubricate.
    No need to work them a dozen of times, few runs is fine since we only want the stuff add a lubrication layer everywhere.
  6. For metal to metal components like switches and selector switches, add a little bit of Deoxit Gold G100 and work them to add some protection and enhance contact (optionnal).
    No need to work them a dozen of times, few runs is fine since we only want the stuff add a protective layer everywhere to enhance contact and protect them.
  7. Clean RCA jacks, speakers connectors and headphone jacks with Deoxit D100.
    This is where small brushes can be useful. Use them with Deoxit D100 to remove any oxidation that can have formed in the connectors. You can also insert RCA or headphone cable in respective plugs and work them left and right to insure Deoxit D100 goes everywhere.
  8. Add some Deoxit Gold to the RCA jacks, speaker connectors and headphones jacks (optionnal).
    This can usually be done with inserting a RCA or headphone cable in the plug and working them left and right to insure coating goes everywhere. For speaker connectors you can use the small brushes to do this.
  9. Let dry. Also really important. You don't want any liquid to short components.
    It's best to let the stuff dry completely before plugging in you device. Most of the time, I wait around 30 minutes, but some people only waits around 10 minutes without getting issues. The more you wait the safer you are though. Caig Chemicals (Deoxit maker) recommend wiping the excess liquid and wait 2 minutes, but IMHO this is a really short time to let everything dry.
  10. Test.
    Plug the device and test everything. By everything, I mean everything. Sometimes, people forgot to test all inputs and have to reopen the whole thing to repeat some steps.
  11. Repeat steps on parts that still got some issues then go to step 10.
    Don't forget to unplug before.
    If you notice any scratching noise on some components, repeat respective steps on those. In dirtier components, you may have to do it a couple of times before it becomes perfect.
  12. Reassemble.
  13. Enjoy!
Definitions

Potentiometers are usually used to control volume, bass, treble etc. Knobs attach to their shaft.
Potentiometer.jpg
Sliders are a type of potentiometers to control various settings on electronic devices. There is usually a button attached to them in front of the device.
Faders.jpg
Switches are usually used to turn on and off functionalities, but can also act as a selector, like in sources rotary switch (images). They can be lever type, push buttons and selector knobs.
Rotaryswitch.gif
Sources

 

Attachments

  • Deoxit Instructions.jpg
    Deoxit Instructions.jpg
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I still need to confirm which Deoxit Fader and which Deoxit Gold is best for sliders, pots, and switches. Any comments or suggestions are welcome.

Edit: Updated Deoxit Fader. Only gold still needed.
 
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STEP 1 should be UNPLUG THE DEVICE from the power source (wall outlet/power strip/surge protector/etc)
Whether for servicing or changing input/outputs/speaker wires.

Step 9 is important and is also a MUST, you don't want any liquids causing shorts/etc.
 
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STEP 1 should be UNPLUG THE DEVICE from the power source (wall outlet/etc)
Whether for servicing or changing input/outputs/speaker wires.

Step 7 is important and is also a MUST, you don't want any liquids causing shorts/etc.
Done. Thanks for you input! :) I really appreciate!
 
A guide like this is needed. Thanks for starting it.
With so many products it's easy to be confused or buy the wrong product.
 
A guide like this is needed. Thanks for starting it.
With so many products it's easy to be confused or buy the wrong product.
Thanks @goodolpg. This is why I started it. I tried to contact @Arkay (the original writer of The Idiot's Guide to Using DeOxit (revisited) to see which products he recommends but he seems to be out of AK since 2017. Some information are here and there but I think it's a good idea to regroup everything in a guide.
 
Just a scanned copy of direction direct from Caig. It is some years old; so Fader is called Faderlube, but the info is still correct.

Deoxit Instructions.jpg
 
Just a scanned copy of direction direct from Caig. It is some years old; so Fader is called Faderlube, but the info is still correct.

View attachment 1374203
I updated the guide. Please let me know if you agree with everything! :) I also found that Faderlube F100 is best for carbon potentiometers. They only thing missing is to find weither G5 or G100 is best to use on our vintage devices.
 
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I just received the Caig answer. Here is the exchange we had:

Me:
Hello guys,

I have some question concerning Deoxit. I'm doing a small guide for the guy from Audiokarma for Deoxiting audio gears, mostly vintage gears. I read the following:

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/ctype.KB/it.I/id.2919/KB.215/.f

So that englithened me concerning Deoxit D100 but in the answer there was no mention of which Fader stuff to use (F5 ou F100).

Also, I know Deoxit Gold can be added to metal to metal contact but what about carbon potentiometers? I guess if they are truely carbon only the Fader step is recommenced but if they are carbon wipers with metal contacts should we add some Gold stuff after the D100 step?

And same question for Gold: G5 or G100?

Best regards,

Jeremy

Answer:
Jeremy,

I am the sales manager for CAIG Laboratories and your email below was forwarded to me. Thank you for your interest in CAIG Labs’ products, especially our DeoxIT Line. I am happy to help.

Initially, you are pretty much spot as far as the application information in your email. I understand that you are working on vintage gear, and that is why it is most appropriate for you to be using the 100% DeoxIT Line solutions – this way you can be sure that there is no risk of an incompatible carrier solvent getting on your equipment.

To give you a little background, as you are aware, we do have 5% sprays. These are great and provide a nice flushing action, then the carrier solvent and propellant evaporate, and you have only 100% of the DeoxIT product (Fader, Gold, D Series) left on the surface. However, we do not recommend these sprays on the vintage stuff as some times, there are older materials in vintage equipment (plastics, vinyl and the like) that can be negatively impacted by the newer carrier solvents and propellants. This is why we tell you to use the 100% versions.

The Fader is definitely ideal for the carbon controls. Again, on vintage stuff, I would use the F100, but this is just a lubricant and will not clean. Accordingly, if you have metal in there, the D100 will be the best solution to use as it will deoxidize and protect the metals from oxidizing. Likewise, if it is really dirty, you may want to try using some canned air to get rid of the dirt before applying the F100. With respect to the Gold, you can use the G100 for general maintenance after your initial cleaning with the D100. You should definitely use the D100 first though as it is much better cleaner. The Gold is aimed at plating and it is very good at sealing the plating and lubricating– it does do some cleaning, but nowhere near what the D Series does.

Please let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you.

All the Best,
Mike

My answer:
Ok so if I do a summary:

Pots: Try with F100 first. If problem does'nt go away, there is mostly metal in them so D100, then F100. G100 only if there was metal in them? Or no G100 at all?

Switch: D100 then G100.

Fader/sliders: D100 then F100, no G100.

Am I right?

Best regards,

Jeremy

Their final answer:
Jeremy,

That is about right… Here is how I would do it.

With respect to pots on vintage equipment: (1) If it is all metal contacts, D100; (2) if it is combination of metal and conductive carbon/plastic, then use the D100 and follow up with the F100; (3) if it is all carbon/plastic, maybe use some duster to get rid of surface contaminants and then use the F100; and (4) if you are not sure, use the D100 only.

As to the Gold, this would be a later down the road maintenance product for the metal only. Once you have cleaned the metals by applying DeoxIT D100 as outlined above, you can maintain the equipment with the Gold. For example, a year or so down the road (likely longer) after you originally restored the equipment with D100, you may decide that it needs another quick shot of maintenance… possibly a little noise or scratchy pot. In this case, as we know the oxidation will not be too severe having already used D100 previously, using the Gold will get your metals up to the highest conductive efficiencies and provide protection from contaminants.

Hopefully, I answered your inquiry fully. If I missed something, just send me another email. Thanks.

Mike

I updated the guide with those information. If you have any comments please let me know! :)
 
This is a great guide and exactly what I needed since I'm new to vintage receivers, and really electronics in general. The only thing I don't see in the guide is where to buy all of the different Deoxit products you recommend. I'm having a hard time finding a site that carries all of them. Most retailers listed on the Caig website only sell the D5. My local Radioshack only carries the D5 also. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
This is a great guide and exactly what I needed since I'm new to vintage receivers, and really electronics in general. The only thing I don't see in the guide is where to buy all of the different Deoxit products you recommend. I'm having a hard time finding a site that carries all of them. Most retailers listed on the Caig website only sell the D5. My local Radioshack only carries the D5 also. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Here's a list of places where you can buy it (assuming you are in USA):
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.15/category.5934/ctype.SS/SS.5934/.f
 
This is a great guide and exactly what I needed since I'm new to vintage receivers, and really electronics in general. The only thing I don't see in the guide is where to buy all of the different Deoxit products you recommend. I'm having a hard time finding a site that carries all of them. Most retailers listed on the Caig website only sell the D5. My local Radioshack only carries the D5 also. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Was searching for some D100 and found this site. Turns out it's actually within drive distance of me!
https://audio-video-supply.markertek.com/search?w=deoxit&sitepref=1
 
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