Can i put a vote in for the teac model a-450 built like a tank easy to service best of all ac motor also huge vu meters.
In retrospect, this thread should have been what's the best "bang for the buck"? Haha!

metal tape tends to have lower S/N ratio and higher distortion then type-II tape. However, metal tape can be driven harder than other types giving them an advantage when setting proper recording levels is difficult or even impossible, such as when recording live events.
Very well stated. I've been having to bite my tongue on a number of the suggested machines.The second part of this is very true, and, IMHO, the second best feature of the type IV tape, the first being it's high coercivity, so the signal is not susceptible to time erasure or magnetized play head erasure.
The first part is not true for most any metal made after 1983, or so and is an unfortunate legacy that has stuck with them, like the old "metal tapes wear out your heads" myth. The first, and maybe second generation metals, had these issues to an extent, but any 3rd gen and later Type IV has lower distortion than the same gen Type IIs, and about equal S/N for cobalt doped IIs, but not as good as true chromes, which have their own issues.
Top ten decks is fun, but of course, inevitably, people only include decks they own, as of course, those are the ones they've heard, like the JVC TD-V661 or Teac mentioned. I'm sure they are fine decks, but if it is a single capstan, belt drive, it's just not Holy Grail in any sense, unless we are talking Bang for the Buck kind of stuff. Same same with top 10 speakers, only much worse, right? Also, many don't really know the difference between similar model number decks. The Nak 1000 and 1000ZXL are not even remotely the same deck, except that they are both huge. The ZXL is Holy Grail worthy, the 1000, no way, no how. Historically significant, for sure, but performance and reliability, not in the same ballpark. There is no perfect deck, just as Alex pointed out so well, that pleases everyone as far as looks, price, rep, sound, reliability are concerned. Only the OP can list, in what order, things are important to him. Start with price range, and work from there. If you HAVE to have a real brushed metal silver deck, then no top Nak will do, for instance. The OP can PM me if looking for a Nak or Revox that has been fully serviced and doesn't want to go through the uncertainty of "how well does it work". If he is of the camp that belts and lube is all it takes to restore a deck to former glory or original performance, sorry...not gonna happen, cap'n. Those days are long gone. If I found a NIB, anything Holy Grail worthy, it will still need a good infusion of cash to make it tops, in addition to the insane price it would likely go for. It's all up to what you call tops. I can't tell you how many times I hear how great a deck is, just needs new belts please, and when I get it, it's awful. How do you kindly tell someone that what they think sounds great, isn't even close? It's not being snobby or elitist, but if the W&F is 0.2% with a new belt, and FR rolls off -15db at 18kHz, it's just fact.
The second part of this is very true, and, IMHO, the second best feature of the type IV tape, the first being it's high coercivity, so the signal is not susceptible to time erasure or magnetized play head erasure.
The first part is not true for most any metal made after 1983, or so and is an unfortunate legacy that has stuck with them, like the old "metal tapes wear out your heads" myth. The first, and maybe second generation metals, had these issues to an extent, but any 3rd gen and later Type IV has lower distortion than the same gen Type IIs, and about equal S/N for cobalt doped IIs, but not as good as true chromes, which have their own issues.
Top ten decks is fun, but of course, inevitably, people only include decks they own, as of course, those are the ones they've heard, like the JVC TD-V661 or Teac mentioned. I'm sure they are fine decks, but if it is a single capstan, belt drive, it's just not Holy Grail in any sense, unless we are talking Bang for the Buck kind of stuff. Same same with top 10 speakers, only much worse, right? Also, many don't really know the difference between similar model number decks. The Nak 1000 and 1000ZXL are not even remotely the same deck, except that they are both huge. The ZXL is Holy Grail worthy, the 1000, no way, no how. Historically significant, for sure, but performance and reliability, not in the same ballpark. There is no perfect deck, just as Alex pointed out so well, that pleases everyone as far as looks, price, rep, sound, reliability are concerned. Only the OP can list, in what order, things are important to him. Start with price range, and work from there. If you HAVE to have a real brushed metal silver deck, then no top Nak will do, for instance. The OP can PM me if looking for a Nak or Revox that has been fully serviced and doesn't want to go through the uncertainty of "how well does it work". If he is of the camp that belts and lube is all it takes to restore a deck to former glory or original performance, sorry...not gonna happen, cap'n. Those days are long gone. If I found a NIB, anything Holy Grail worthy, it will still need a good infusion of cash to make it tops, in addition to the insane price it would likely go for. It's all up to what you call tops. I can't tell you how many times I hear how great a deck is, just needs new belts please, and when I get it, it's awful. How do you kindly tell someone that what they think sounds great, isn't even close? It's not being snobby or elitist, but if the W&F is 0.2% with a new belt, and FR rolls off -15db at 18kHz, it's just fact.
The better JVC decks like the V-661 are in fact direct drive dual capstan machines. They have wow and flluter readings that are as good as the best decks I have ever measured. under .04%. They are dead flat from 30HZ-19KHZ when set up properly. They will make a tape that is identical to the source in tape source comparisons with monitored on a very revealing system. They are much newer than a lot of the more expensive decks mentioned and tend to be in better shape.
I have a TDV-541 which has the same transport and electronics as the 661. I always use the Dolby C noise reduction. With classical music that has wide dynamic range, hiss is very noticeable on quiet passages.
Why doesnt dolby decode properly between decks? (When recorded in one then played back in another) Its been driving me nuts for years.:bash:
The better JVC decks like the V-661 are in fact direct drive dual capstan machines. They have wow and flutter readings that are as good as the best decks I have measured. under .04%. They are dead flat from 30HZ-19KHZ when set up properly. They will make a tape that is identical to the source in tape source comparisons when monitored on a very revealing system. They are much newer than a lot of the more expensive decks mentioned and tend to be in better shape. JVC decks are very popular in recording studios.