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TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

A more even comparison cost and performance wise would probably be with the Volt+D. Although once you buy the special case and accessories the Ice amp would be a good bit more expensive.
I only ask as I have a couple of the YJ BB 3116 boards in stock condition. I also have an Astron RS-12A on hand although I have been running the one YJ with a Dell 19v brick.
The +D is not for consideration as I do not need the volume control and I detest the clear plastic cases, so I would have to buy a proper metal case anyway for the YJ or the ICE or the +D.
 
This might not be the best place for this question, but here goes anyway...

I have a Sainsmart 6n3 tube preamp and am making a case for it. To do this, I need to remove and relocate the volume pot so it can reach through the face panel I've made of walnut. It's a cheapo pot so I considered replacing it as long as it's disconnected. I have an Alps 250K log taper pot on hand.

Is there a positive or negative to using the Alps 250K pot in place of the onboard volume pot? I can't find specs on the original pot anywhere.
 
This might not be the best place for this question, but here goes anyway...

I have a Sainsmart 6n3 tube preamp and am making a case for it. To do this, I need to remove and relocate the volume pot so it can reach through the face panel I've made of walnut. It's a cheapo pot so I considered replacing it as long as it's disconnected. I have an Alps 250K log taper pot on hand.

Is there a positive or negative to using the Alps 250K pot in place of the onboard volume pot? I can't find specs on the original pot anywhere.
Assuming the original pot still functions, you can just measure it with mulitmeter to determine if it's 250k or something else and also determine if it's a log (aka audio) taper or linear pot.

Just turn the pot to one extreme or the other and measure from the center pin to both sides. If, for example, if it's a 250k pot, you'll measure ~250k to one side and 0 to the other.

To determine if it's an audio taper or a linear taper, put one probe on the center pin and one on the input pin. If it's a linear pot, as you turn the pot the reading will be roughly 25% of total at 1/4 of it's turn range, ~50% at half rotation, ~75% at 3/4. If the readings aren't so consistent, it's an audio pot.
 
Amazon was showing an 11% discount on the Aiyima A07 TPA 3255 yesterday so once again I yielded to temptation. I plan to use it to drive two 15" Eminence Alpha bass OB woofers which are fairly sensitive. Will use one of my active crossovers to low pass the Alphas. Finally I'll get to see how it compares with the Volt+D. The hype this little amp has received is impressive.

61TQiapKqkL._AC_SS450_.jpg
 
That's a nice amp and probably good for what you described as your application
I've been playing around with this guy, based on two of the TI 3118. I'm trying to determine the low pass on it, but it drives a passive sub pretty well along with a L/R. It, may not be as powerful, but I can still buy two of these with power supplies for the price of that Aiyima.
71vKCx6AkzL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
That's a nice amp and probably good for what you described as your application
I've been playing around with this guy, based on two of the TI 3118. I'm trying to determine the low pass on it, but it drives a passive sub pretty well along with a L/R. It, may not be as powerful, but I can still buy two of these with power supplies for the price of that Aiyima.
71vKCx6AkzL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
I don't see a way to adjust the crossover so your passive sub would have to have a fixed crossover to work. I've used a plate amp which has an adjustable crossover with my OB woofers but I've found it's not as precise as the many adjustments an active provides.
 
I've used a plate amp which has an adjustable crossover with my OB woofers but I've found it's not as precise as the many adjustments an active provides.

Any recommendations for an active for an active neophyte. Something to learn with.
Thanks!
Frank
 
Amazon was showing an 11% discount on the Aiyima A07 TPA 3255 yesterday so once again I yielded to temptation. I plan to use it to drive two 15" Eminence Alpha bass OB woofers which are fairly sensitive. Will use one of my active crossovers to low pass the Alphas. Finally I'll get to see how it compares with the Volt+D. The hype this little amp has received is impressive.
Any recommendations for an active for an active neophyte. Something to learn with.
Thanks!
Frank
I recently picked up a little $99 Rolls SX45 active crossover, which is a simple 2-way stereo unit with a continuously adjustable crossover point. I'm using it with an Aiyima A07 and some vintage AR3 cabinets when I feel the need for a bit more bass. I think I've got the crossover point set around 75 Hz.

The main amp is my latest DIY build, the Nuance, which is an "inverted SET":

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-nuance-my-inverted-set-diy-project.990205/

I also have an old, rack mount size, active crossover that was sold by Pyle. It's a 3 way stereo and also works fine. It's biggest limitation is that the crossover points are not continuously adjustable. Although you have lots of choices, they're all at preset frequencies.

I bought the Aiyima A07 specifically for this application but it's an excellent full range amp too. I was running it full range for a while just to hear what the excitement was about and I was quite impressed. In fact both it and the little Nobsound NS-040 Pro I have are surprisingly good. Not as good as tube amps but really good. YMMV, of course.

I ran the A07 full range directly from my Loxjie DAC for a while but it was even better when I used it with my DIY Boogie Factor tube preamp.

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/1626-preamp-build.931276/

Although I mostly use the Boogie Factor with tube amps, I designed it so that its output impedance is low enough that it matches up well with SS and Class D amps, which isn't always the case with tube preamps.

I had previously used it with a Yamaha power amp, which sounded good too, but the tube pre with the Aiyima A07 is much better. Not sure if the Aiyima is just that much better than the Yammie (which, to be fair, is unrestored) or if there's just some synergy thing going on with the tube preamp / Class D combo.
 
Any recommendations for an active for an active neophyte. Something to learn with.
Thanks!
Frank

Hi Frank, I have two that have served me well for several years in various systems. A Behringer CX2310 which cost $75 new but I'm sure the price has increased by now. The other is a more expensive Ashly XR1001. Both require XLR adaptors to use with RCA cables. An active or electronic crossover is placed between a preamp and an amp and divides the frequencies before they are amplified whereas a passive crossover divides the frequencies after amplification. A passive crossover with boutique parts can cost more than an active crossover yet it may only be used in a single application. Both of these actives are 2 way but can sum the LF allowing use and control of a powered sub. Used active crossovers are pro gear which are plentiful and inexpensive on ebay but you must be careful not to buy one that has been abused by some stoned roadie.
 
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The Aiyima A07 TPA 3255 came yesterday and I've spent much of last evening and this morning listening to it. Really like it's power as it reminds me of a tricked out TPA3116 on steroids. The bass is full and detailed but Diana Krall's voice is a bit shrill on her highest notes with the Swan speakers. Haven't tried it yet with other speakers which might not be the case. I added the trusty old 6N3 tube preamp to the mix and the the shrillness was no longer an issue. The two really compliment each other and with the Aiyima's volume knob maxed there's still appropriate travel with the 6N3's pot. If it doesn't get too hot today I'll take it out to the porch as see how it sounds with the Axioms. I don't think anyone could go wrong with this fine little amp which can drive any speaker and sells for the bargain price of $79.

P1010007 3.jpeg
 
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