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TPA 3116 vs the tripaths

rotini said:
I just got my SMSL SA-36a Pro (TPA3118) today. Very nice enclosure/build quality.

Need to do more comparisons with my Denon PMA-757 but it obviously does not have the same authority or amount of bass, which was as expected (although I was hoping to be surprised), compared to the 80wpc@8ohms amplifier. I'm sure some larger power supply caps and power supply would help. I might try building the 3116 to see if there's much improvement, but I was honestly hoping for a more authoritative sound. This still sounds miles better than the Tripaths I've heard though.
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I have been running the SMSL SA-36A PRO with a Tec Tec 937 power supply. A definite improvement with a better power supply. The sound quality is amazing for it's price and I'm using efficient Zu Superflys, Van Alstine Avastar hybrid pre-amp and a Zu Undertone powered sub. Plenty of volume.

Compared to my more expensive tube and hybrid amps, the soundstage is however somewhat compressed and the sound quality is a bit sterile and less three dimensional particularly in the mid-range. The SMSL is not perfect, but what do you expect for such an inexpensive amp?
 
phalanger said:
That could work, although it would be cheaper to order a 'green' board from audiobah. According to OP, who has tried both, that one sounds better than the B&B board. Hard to be sure if that's still true with these mods in place, but seeing the only mods are DC decoupling caps and power caps, I would guess the green board would still be at least equally good, and it has speaker pop protection as well. With fancy-brand components from China you're never sure if they are real or counterfeit either. Personally I would apply the mods myself or else just get the green board.
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It seems like they offer several combinations of these pre-modded boards. Davidflas' photo shows the Solen+Nichicon combo, but I've also seen a Panasonic+Solen MKP and a Panasonic + Spirit MKP (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/TPA3116-Clas...r_Parts_Components&hash=item1c4137fe3c&_uhb=1)

Has anyone heard anything about the SPIRIT MKP caps? I think I'm going to give that board a try. My plan is to use the modded board while I mod my current stock hiamplifier amp, and do a comparison. Should keep me busy for a few weeks lol
 
With respect changing inputcaps and lowfrequency bulk/decoupling caps will have a difference on how Spotify sounds, and it may sound better. Improving quality of the YJblue/cheap green would have to be about getting more information from source to output. There is lost a lot.
 
YJ black + speaker protection board

OK, had to edit previous post:


This solution is fine while the volume is low. I was just testing last night and this morning, never turned the volume high, not needed as it's already loud enough for my space. But once the pot goes higher, there are issues, sound breaks :cry: It obviously needs two of these in parallel, so it seems this will be a long long summer :drool:

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@Orthodynamic, I know that one zero is too many (in 'my values') and shouldn't wrote uH value, but that's just how they mark those inductors. So those who know won't mind. No offense taken :thmbsp:
 
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jkilla said:
It seems like they offer several combinations of these pre-modded boards. Davidflas' photo shows the Solen+Nichicon combo, but I've also seen a Panasonic+Solen MKP and a Panasonic + Spirit MKP (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/TPA3116-Clas...r_Parts_Components&hash=item1c4137fe3c&_uhb=1)

Has anyone heard anything about the SPIRIT MKP caps? I think I'm going to give that board a try. My plan is to use the modded board while I mod my current stock hiamplifier amp, and do a comparison. Should keep me busy for a few weeks lol
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But this board still lacks any speaker protection solution!? I think the price is just not justified for that reason. :no:
 
TPA3116 chip has DC output protection, when DC is on output the amp switches off. This is only there for speakerprotection, not to protect the tpa chip itself.
 
jkilla said:
Has anyone heard anything about the SPIRIT MKP caps? I think I'm going to give that board a try. My plan is to use the modded board while I mod my current stock hiamplifier amp, and do a comparison. Should keep me busy for a few weeks lol
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If you do get that board, let me know how it sounds, it seems like the best route for a non-solder type such as me.
 
Almost 100,000 hits in 5 months with no end in sight. Must be close to a record.

Shows the strong interest in gear of this type.
 
natger said:
Mmm, better check phase too, on left channel amplifier output you use black for positive??[/IMG]
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GOOD LORD!! :yikes:

What an eye, thanks for this. It's not for nothing old saying that pictures worth a thousand words!
This is what happens when in a hurry to try the things out. I think I was following the symmetric rule of the inputs/outputs of the protection board. jeeez

Now the sound - amplifier does not trip anymore on higher volumes! WOW
So, the confusion remains - why the thing (YJ board) needs two of these speaker protection boards, as for BTL is recommended :headscrat

Just to be sure everything is fine with the stereo sound now, pulled out Jethro Tull's - No Lullaby, the first that came up to mind with that great stereo drums separation... and voila! Fantastic, sound, bass, stereo,... everything. Yet, not that stereo was not there even before.
Thanks again for that, who knows when would I have found this issue, if at all :D :thmbsp:
 
2 negative outputs connected together and then split to 2 speakers aren't stereo any more. It could sound ok, but is "half" the stereo information recorded and some stereo information from left send to right channel and from right to left.

Regulator on protectionpcb has gnd connection? So what will output be then? When regulator output is lowered will negative output drive the elecrolytic capacitors there? Same questions for all parts on protectionboard, what will they do with negative voltage instead of gnd. Relais is supposed to break signal, but doesn''t really do that now. What will break is the question, this doesn't create a safer system I think.
 
Can you kill tpachip when there is only left or right signal and negatives are tied, or is outputimpedance too high to really get output from one channel back into the other silent output?

I have some ampboards without any need to fix pop, if any it isn't loud on 85dB speakers. The on pop I have only heard with tpa3110, that also has a pop off, I didn't connect a switch but sure3110 has connectorblock for a switch to mute. \
The pop off I vaguely hear with hiampmini, a little louder on Wiener board (green connector board). The remote/display board has no pop, power is on board without chip being on, chip is switched on with sd pin, sd pin switches chip off, power remains on, if you disconnect power you do when chip is already off. When you plug in ampboard to power display says wellcome first and then sd switches chip on, so there is a little timer on sd-pin I guess.
I have borrowed YJblue a few days, pops are similar to hiamp I remember, but not sure, never was an issue on my speakers.
Oh when I tried 19.5V PSU on a Sure tpa3110 board once and pulled out the DCplug, there was a very very loud crack, when I plugged power back in there was DC for short time I think till chip switched off (cone-speaker was out max and stayed there till amp switched off), I killed a part on the board I guess, normal 12V I tried later, same result, probably DC, chip ending it (=quicker then I can unplug, you do look at speakers to see what is happening, then amp switches off befor you can unplug), I didn't try again, 7euros lost, not really worth finding what part is defective.
 
I'm confused about this supposed pop issue on the blue/black board. Mine barely makes any noise when switched off/on. I'm using a volume pot on mine though. Speakers are 89db. Maybe the boards that make the noise are defective?
 
prighello said:
I'm confused about this supposed pop issue on the blue/black board. Mine barely makes any noise when switched off/on. I'm using a volume pot on mine though. Speakers are 89db. Maybe the boards that make the noise are defective?
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Mine is the same same way, no sound on turn on, and a very quiet sound at turn off. I am using my board with a preamp, but no switch. I plug/unplug it to turn it on and off.
 
prighello said:
I'm confused about this supposed pop issue on the blue/black board. Mine barely makes any noise when switched off/on. I'm using a volume pot on mine though. Speakers are 89db. Maybe the boards that make the noise are defective?
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Believe me I'm even more confused. Also, when I see your set-up it is rather simple an obviously good enough. Perhaps I just overcomplicated the whole thing as wanted 'all-or-nothing-at all' and will try one more time without spk.protect. board and tube pre. However boards are the same, and mine is also producing great sound.

There is always a third option in the air - a trash bin :sigh:
 
I don't think it's the boards. I am currently putting in a new 50k ALPS volume pot into my build to see if I can avoid the pop that way. The pre I was using doesn't fully attenuate. I've been delaying as those ALPS pots look kind of tricky to solder, what with the ground connections and all. But I'm gonna give it a shot. The sound is good, though I love the basic red board too. If I had it to do over, I'd have ordered one of the green boards. Once I have my pot in the chain, I'll post a photo. Using an old Dell power brick for the power conversion that had the right V/A spec (19.5V, 4.65A).
 
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