wyn palmer
Addicted Member
Why is it necessary to replace the complementary (not complimentary, by the way) device also?Always replace the compliment.
Why is it necessary to replace the complementary (not complimentary, by the way) device also?Always replace the compliment.
So, why would the positive and negative waveforms (which waveforms?) not match- what is it that matters as far as complementarity is concerned and why would a device that was perfectly functional prior now no longer be acceptable? The other reasons are just opinion, and I won't comment on them one way or another.Complement. Right
Because if you do a substitution, you want the positive and negative waveforms to match. Even if you are doing an exact replacement, You should replace it's complement. It could have been stressed during the failure of it's complement and fail in the future. Another reason... Would you feel comfortable buying a amp or other electronics item that has mismatched parts? It would seem like someone did a half-assed repair to me. I would not give that tech a good compliment!
What audio waveform? Transistors are not spark plugs.Audio waveform passing through the transistors in question. Maybe it would match because of the amp circuit. I don't know. The perfectly functional device MAY have received damage when the other transistor shorted. Why would you trust it?
I have a question for you. If you were doing a tune up on a car, and 3 out of 8 spark plugs looked perfectly functional, would you replace them?
Sometimes people like to replace things in sets- faucet handles, tires, light bulbs (even if one still works), etc.
So, lets assume that you did replace just the one. If it is a class AB stage are you assuming that the output is self biasing at a given standing current or are you going to be adjusting a pot or something similar? Or, are you just accepting whatever current you get as being acceptable?I would seriously consider replacing a transistor's complement in the case where the other transistor of the pair had failed. But it would depend on the failure mode of the faulty transistor - if it shorted C-E for example and especially if I didn't have an exact replacement, I would replace them both. But if the transistor in question failed for a less serious reason, and if I DID have an exact replacement - then maybe not.
It isn't about that, you are missing the point - it's about whether or not half of a failed transistor complementary pair has been damaged when its complement has failed catastrophically - why can't you understand this? - you have almost been bullying redk9258 with an interrogation about this very point which you have singularly failed to grasp!So, lets assume that you did replace just the one. If it is a class AB stage are you assuming that the output is self biasing at a given standing current or are you going to be adjusting a pot or something similar? Or, are you just accepting whatever current you get as being acceptable?
Bullying? Hardly. Yes, I get the point. If it's simply a matter of perhaps the device has been damaged and therefore it should be replaced then fine- but in my experience it is quite likely that a single device can fail and not cause measurable damage to the other one, and when it does the result is difficulty in setting the bias current. Rather than just making unqualified statements about things why don't we add a bit of nuance and explanation...It isn't about that, you are missing the point - it's about whether or not half of a failed transistor complementary pair has been damaged when its complement has failed catastrophically - why can't you understand this? - you have almost been bullying redk9298 with an interrogation about this very point which you have singularly failed to grasp!
Possibly arrogance- who knows?I am trying to figure out if Mr. Palmer is asking this sincerely or out of a state of corporate arrogance.
If sincerely it can be answered in part by COA......letting out magic smoke from a owners just repaired pretty vintage unit does cause strained relationships and direct cost to ones pocketbook.
One might study the history of PNP transistor development back 40-50 years ago to get a further perspective.
If arrogance, start repairing units for soon to be ex friends......you'll learn soon enough.
You may need more experience of repairing Quality DC Coupled HiFi Audio Amplifiers.but in my experience it is quite likely that a single device can fail and not cause measurable damage to the other one
I've had limited recent experience in such matters, but a substantial level of experience in design of amplifiers and their ilk. Perhaps there's more to it than a simple "swap the devices out until it works" approach, and a bit of explanation might go a long way...You may need more experience of repairing Quality DC Coupled HiFi Audio Amplifiers.
FT has a precise definition for transistors. It's the frequency at which the current gain becomes unity. It has other implications, but that's how it's defined.Im a hobbyist, not an E.E. or pro tech, so take anything I suggest and carefully double-check with people who actually know.
That said, yes, you should look for a device that has a simialr or higher hfe gain. The various hfs gain codes (like MJE15030 "E" vs "G") is what you should look at. The gain codes will tell you "when I get these new parts, how much gain will they have".
The ft is a bit different. If I understand ft correctly, it is the frequency at which this device stops working (i.e. Amplifying). Because this is an audio frequency application, you require a ft of at least 20k Hz. Your original part was 60 MHz and the new part is way higher. That means both will amplify your audio frequencies just fine. The _trouble_ would be if your circuit is delivering higher frequencies, i.e. RF, and these newer, higher ft devices would happily amplify them. That's not good as you could get oscillation (motor boating) and the amp will work harder with no audio benefit.
Circuit designs, especially newer ones, have tiny capacitors in an amongst the driver or adjacent stages to act as a low pass filter and cut out any frequencies above 20k Hz (or so). The trouble if you use a newer device with higher ft would be if your circuit IS picking up RF and DOES NOT low-pass filter it.
Now someone with much more experience and knowledge can point out where I'm wrong and give you a better answer. I think your above choices are good ones.
Because of availability of proper or ideal replacements. But I managed to fix the problem with same original devices from a local source.Why will replacing a device with an FT of 10MHz with one with an FT of 4MHz be better than replacing it with one of 20MHz.
Ic opamps can use devices that have FTs that are between a few hundred MHz and a few GHz. The devices are rarely used as low pass filter elements for audio, rather a specific pole or poles are introduced to control the bandwidth. This is sometimes done to restrict the RFI impact but more generally for stability issues and to maintain immunity to effects like Transient Intermodulation Distortion...Im a hobbyist, not an E.E. or pro tech, so take anything I suggest and carefully double-check with people who actually know.
That said, yes, you should look for a device that has a simialr or higher hfe gain. The various hfs gain codes (like MJE15030 "E" vs "G") is what you should look at. The gain codes will tell you "when I get these new parts, how much gain will they have".
The ft is a bit different. If I understand ft correctly, it is the frequency at which this device stops working (i.e. Amplifying). Because this is an audio frequency application, you require a ft of at least 20k Hz. Your original part was 60 MHz and the new part is way higher. That means both will amplify your audio frequencies just fine. The _trouble_ would be if your circuit is delivering higher frequencies, i.e. RF, and these newer, higher ft devices would happily amplify them. That's not good as you could get oscillation (motor boating) and the amp will work harder with no audio benefit.
Circuit designs, especially newer ones, have tiny capacitors in an amongst the driver or adjacent stages to act as a low pass filter and cut out any frequencies above 20k Hz (or so). The trouble if you use a newer device with higher ft would be if your circuit IS picking up RF and DOES NOT low-pass filter it.
Now someone with much more experience and knowledge can point out where I'm wrong and give you a better answer. I think your above choices are good ones.