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Troubleshooting CD Players

No, the clear plastic top comes off. It's held on by plastic ramps on the sides. You have to desolder them before you can disassemble them.
The only relays I see in there are the Zettler AZ830-2C-12DSE. Small black sealed relays seen in the pics.
 
Oh. It's got valves in it. I would be looking at valve seating, too. Pull them out, check for oxide on the pins, plug them back in. That alone may be enough to re-establish good connection.
Looking at the right hand green, 1u 250V film capacitor, I see what looks like soldering iron burn (bottom edge & bottom RH corner). Has someone already been in there?
I suspect that was done during the mod upgrades that Partsconnextion/Chris did back in the day. Upgraded cap, clock. I bought the unit used around 10 years ago and have never been in there with an iron myself in that time.
 
The only relays I see in there are the Zettler AZ830-2C-12DSE. Small black sealed relays seen in the pics.
I see them. I think I've opened these in the past. You have to desolder them to replace them anyway so you might as well see if you can open them when you remove them. If you check Digikey you can probably find relays with the same voltage and footprint.
Maybe these:
https://www.mpja.com/24VDC-DPDT-DIP-Relay/productinfo/32560+RL/
 
I see them. I think I've opened these in the past. You have to desolder them to replace them anyway so you might as well see if you can open them when you remove them. If you check Digikey you can probably find relays with the same voltage and footprint.
Maybe these:
https://www.mpja.com/24VDC-DPDT-DIP-Relay/productinfo/32560+RL/
Good plan and thanks for the recommendation, much appreciated. I have the board out now and am going to start the desoldering of the relays. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
I originally posed this question in the Yamaha forum but was asked tor repost here.

Okay, all this info is great, but I'm not a repair person, and when I do attempt to fix something it usually ends up in worse condition than when I started. That's why I'm here, hoping to find someone who will do the repairs for me. I'm not popping the top and messing around with the bits, so...

Can someone recommend where/who I can get my Yamaha CDX-530 looked at before I take a hammer to it and add it to our burgeoning landfills?

My usual go-to guy for vintage repairs doesn't work on CD players...

Sometimes it plays fine. Other times it will refuse to acknowledge a disk (that it played just fine 24 hours earlier) has even been inserted. It also skips on certain disks or hangs and just stops responding. It's not consistent in any of this behavior. Some days I can have a 6-hour listening session with no issues, and then there are days (like today) when it just refuses to cooperate.

Thanks in advance!
 
Where are you located? I am in Cleveland, OH and I do not ship. Your player is one of the few Yamaha players that uses a Sony laser that is available, so it's repairable.


I originally posed this question in the Yamaha forum but was asked tor repost here.

Okay, all this info is great, but I'm not a repair person, and when I do attempt to fix something it usually ends up in worse condition than when I started. That's why I'm here, hoping to find someone who will do the repairs for me. I'm not popping the top and messing around with the bits, so...

Can someone recommend where/who I can get my Yamaha CDX-530 looked at before I take a hammer to it and add it to our burgeoning landfills?

My usual go-to guy for vintage repairs doesn't work on CD players...

Sometimes it plays fine. Other times it will refuse to acknowledge a disk (that it played just fine 24 hours earlier) has even been inserted. It also skips on certain disks or hangs and just stops responding. It's not consistent in any of this behavior. Some days I can have a 6-hour listening session with no issues, and then there are days (like today) when it just refuses to cooperate.

Thanks in advance!
 
If it's a double sided board be patient and gentle so as not to damage traces and pads.
Well... I installed a replacement relay in the left channel and no improvement. If anything it is a little noisier. I have checked resistors in circuit and all measure close to the right channel. Praying it's not the DAC. Never going to find one of those.
 
Hi, like @dogwan & @JASnyder I own Nakamichi cd player 4 bought on ebay recently (one of you sold this *** to me ? :) experiencing the very same problem. I've already replaced the laser and cleaned the switch (the one on the motor board) and checked the motor. before I found this thread. Stuck. Mine looks like new inside, no sign of dust, cd drive is ksl-150 afm. I can't understand the nature of the burn spot around the one of the screw that hold the MB. is that possible the switch (on motor board) is bad - I can't move it manually ?
Just curious, the damn thing won't let me sleep good, though I've already bought Marantz cd-63se - just couldn't wait.
drive.jpg spot1.jpg
 
Looks like HV discharge to me. I think this was a lightning strike victim. If so, there's no fixing it, multiple semiconductor devices will be damaged. What are the symptoms?
 
Good morning @dr*audio I am looking for replacement lights for my Sony CA8ES cdp. I struck out with Vintage Electronics, they had no info for that unit. No help on the “bay or the usual suspects. Any idea which would be the correct replacement bulbs/lights for this model? The only functioning light is the Play button, the display window and power button are dark.
Thanks for any info you could help me with.
 
Good morning @dr*audio I am looking for replacement lights for my Sony CA8ES cdp. I struck out with Vintage Electronics, they had no info for that unit. No help on the “bay or the usual suspects. Any idea which would be the correct replacement bulbs/lights for this model? The only functioning light is the Play button, the display window and power button are dark.
Thanks for any info you could help me with.
The lights are all LEDs. Just go to Digikey and search for LEDs that are through hole parts of the same size, shape and color. The longer lead goes to the positive side, 5V.
The display requires -32V. Measure between one of the end pins and ground. If you don't get -32V you have to look at the power supply. Also you should have about 5VAC between the 2 outer pins. That's the filament voltage.
 
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