dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
Since the motor starts to spin after you turn it, the problem has to be the motor; a bad coil or hall effect sensor in the motor. Not serviceable, needs replaced.
Troubleshooting CD Players
- Thread starter dr*audio
- Start date
Hi dr*audio,
Thanks for providing the final diagnosis. I will try to source a turntable motor then bring it in to the tech to replace it along with the 33uf capacitor and belt replacement.
Regards
Don
I squirted contact cleaner into openings in the back of the sled motor, but saw no change in voltage peaks, either the max voltage, or the frequency of the peaks.
If I understand the mechanism, I think the voltage increases when the motor has to work harder against an obstruction of some sort.
I noticed a regular pattern of voltage peaks, so I recorded the times the peaks occurred. There was a regular pattern with peaks every 22-seconds at the beginning of the CD, increasing uniformly over the CD to 34-seconds, mid-way, and maxing out at about 46-seconds at the end of the last track.
The pattern repeats nearly exactly for the same CD, and has the same pattern for different CDs.
Here's what I think may be happening - as a CD plays, the rotational speed slows to account for the increased diameter, and the sled motion slows in concert. The sled does not have to move as quickly so the interval between voltage peaks increases. This suggests the voltage peaks are related to the movement of the sled. If the motor were directly responsible, there would be a ton of voltage peaks, close together, one for each rotation of the motor.
So, possibly there is something in the gear train where a certain spot on one of the gears has debris on it, maybe the last gear in the train that engages the rack on the slide. That gear rotates slower as the sled moves out, increasing the interval between voltage peaks.
Anyway, that's my guess - does anyone have better understanding of this?
Thanks.
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
Your assessment is correct. Try turning the motor by hand to feel the resistance. Clean and regrease. Look for cracked gears or bad teeth.
I'm needing help with disassembly of a Sony CDP-215 in order to replace the belt. (I have a supply of belts once I get to this one.) I've looked at the service manual but am stuck trying to take the transport apart to get to the belt. I got the transport away from the front but haven't disconnected the green ribbon cable or the 5 wire cable (and I don't think I need to). What I don't know how to do is separate part #59 from #52, and if I need to take #60 off first. Suggestions please, since I'm ignorant about how to separate the plastic pieces. Thanks!
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
The proper way is to, with the unit assembled, and power on, eject the drawer. Then turn the power off and gently push the drawer in. It should now be free to pull it out.
You can also remove #60 and the drawer should lift out. You squeeze the 2 little clips on the bottom to free it.
Thanks Dr. Audio!
Since I already had the transport pulled back from the front, I was able to get the top (#60) and get access to the belt. Replacement belt seems to work fine so far. Also pulled a little white grease off the shaft, cleaned with alcohol and lightly wiped with a swab with light oil.
Again, thanks for this thread!
Since I already had the transport pulled back from the front, I was able to get the top (#60) and get access to the belt. Replacement belt seems to work fine so far. Also pulled a little white grease off the shaft, cleaned with alcohol and lightly wiped with a swab with light oil.
Again, thanks for this thread!
I tipped the CD assembly up to get a view of the sled motor, its gear, and the larger gear it drives. Those look ok. I could not feel any sticky spots when I turned the larger gear, enough to move the sled through its full range. I lubed the gears with Krytox grease (high end stuff, used in satellites and the like because it does not migrate), reassembled and ran the sled in and out by jumping from the lowest track and the highest track, and back again a few times. Then played a couple of CDs. The voltage peaks still occur at regular intervals, as before, so it doesn't look like any improvement. On the plus side, the player no longer skips, and hasn't for a while. I'm going to use it until it dies, and then when it does, take the assembly apart to see what's the problem. And maybe see if I can find a scrap unit for parts in the meantime.
Thanks for the help - I know a lot more about these units, now - they are pretty clever designs.
BrankoZ
Active Member
Can I get a friends help?
Sony CDP 338ESD, it works perfectly for 40-45 minutes (or an hour and a half if the lid is open) and then it loses tracking, the mechanism clicks (linear tracking mechanism ). When warmed skips tracks.
Any advice on how to fix it?
greetings BrankoZ
Sony CDP 338ESD, it works perfectly for 40-45 minutes (or an hour and a half if the lid is open) and then it loses tracking, the mechanism clicks (linear tracking mechanism ). When warmed skips tracks.
Any advice on how to fix it?
greetings BrankoZ
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
After it warms up, if you go back to the beginning of the CD does it play properly?
BrankoZ
Active Member
I had to test it thoroughly and these are results of the test:
Started 10 songs CD at 13:10
Played excellent up to 13:49 (8th song) then started loosing track. Clicking sound is heard from transport.
Send command to skip to 1st track, also bad tracking.
Press STOP. After a minute or two pause, sent command to skip to track 3. Played track 3 good and on track 4 start loosing tracking (13:57)
After that bad reading on any track.
Now cooling to see behavior after that
14:05 (5-6 minutes in powered on, not playing state) started track 3.
Plays good tracks 3, 4, and on track 5 started problems (14:15 so 5 minutes cooling 10 minutes work before problems)
Started 10 songs CD at 13:10
Played excellent up to 13:49 (8th song) then started loosing track. Clicking sound is heard from transport.
Send command to skip to 1st track, also bad tracking.
Press STOP. After a minute or two pause, sent command to skip to track 3. Played track 3 good and on track 4 start loosing tracking (13:57)
After that bad reading on any track.
Now cooling to see behavior after that
14:05 (5-6 minutes in powered on, not playing state) started track 3.
Plays good tracks 3, 4, and on track 5 started problems (14:15 so 5 minutes cooling 10 minutes work before problems)
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
I think you have a bad IC. There are 2 drive ICs, CXA1291P. IC201 and IC202. I think one or both are heating up and failing. They are no longer made, but I found them on E-Bay from a seller I have used before:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1647605152...EtSM0S34Ll7h4DjxKJMR11Yw==|tkp:Bk9SR4q1x-GcZQ
You can confirm this with a scope, looking at the sled drive output and tracking output, or buy some freeze spray and spray those 2 ICs and see if it starts working.
BrankoZ
Active Member
Thank you for fast answer.
Couple of years ago when I first time tried to fix my CD player, I also blamed IC201 and IC202. I measured temperature with contact thermometer and noticed that malfunction starts when temperature reach 70 degrees C. My ICs are slightly different from eBay offer. There are some kind of cooper radiator on them. I think it is a part of IC not attached radiator ( Maybe I am wrong). As I was unable to obtain new ICs I made improvisation adding heat sink. It was messy, clumsy, smeared with heat paste. Picture attached.
It worked for a while but contact with heat sink was not good, and radiator becomes lousy. So issue about tracking reappeared.
My doubts are:
1 Should I buy chip from eBay as I am in doubt that them are not original ICs ( No coper radiator on them).
2 Maybe to try again to make better radiator for existing ICs? Maybe it is bad decision. When misbehavior starts it becomes worse and soon additional heat sink will not help.
3 To make same forced ventilation above ICs?
4 To remove existing copper heatsink and to attach bigger ones?
Couple of years ago when I first time tried to fix my CD player, I also blamed IC201 and IC202. I measured temperature with contact thermometer and noticed that malfunction starts when temperature reach 70 degrees C. My ICs are slightly different from eBay offer. There are some kind of cooper radiator on them. I think it is a part of IC not attached radiator ( Maybe I am wrong). As I was unable to obtain new ICs I made improvisation adding heat sink. It was messy, clumsy, smeared with heat paste. Picture attached.
It worked for a while but contact with heat sink was not good, and radiator becomes lousy. So issue about tracking reappeared.
My doubts are:
1 Should I buy chip from eBay as I am in doubt that them are not original ICs ( No coper radiator on them).
2 Maybe to try again to make better radiator for existing ICs? Maybe it is bad decision. When misbehavior starts it becomes worse and soon additional heat sink will not help.
3 To make same forced ventilation above ICs?
4 To remove existing copper heatsink and to attach bigger ones?
Last edited:
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
I can't see your IC's because there is all that junk on them. The ones I gave you a link to have large tabs which I think double as heat sinks. Since there is nothing else available I would say get those, and attach heat sinks to the top of the IC's with thermal epoxy or a thin layer of JB Weld.
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
Now I realize that there are 2 photos, before and after. I think those tabs were kludged on by Sony at the factory. Not very effective. Replace the chips and glue on new heat sinks.
BrankoZ
Active Member
I am planning to do it.
What is best way to fix heat sink?
Glue, tape, silicone pad, something else?
What is best way to fix heat sink?
Glue, tape, silicone pad, something else?
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
Use any thermal conductive glue, I don't think it matters which one.
Music Center: LG LM-K2530X
There is an issue when trying to play tracks recorded near the end of a CD. Usually, this happens with the last 2–3 tracks, possibly those close to the Lead-Out area.
Problems:
1. If you select the last or second-to-last track manually, the player makes repeated searching sounds but does not play the track.
2. When playing the CD in order (track by track), everything works fine. However, if the last or second-to-last track is playing and you try to fast-forward to the middle of the track, an error occurs.
3. I noticed that if I gently tap the back wall in the area where the disc player is located, the track either skips or jumps to another one. This happens regardless of where the laser is on the disc during playback. I think the issue might be related to the error correction system, which could be too sensitive, preventing the laser from focusing properly on the tracks closer to the end of the disc. In this area, the disc's vibrations reach their maximum amplitude.
The music center correctly displays the total CD length and the number of tracks (TOC).
What has been done:
- The CD drive rails have been cleaned and oiled.
- The spindle motor and head motor bearings have been lubricated.
- The laser lens has been cleaned.
Question:
How can I fix the issue with switching to the last tracks?
Attached the service manual in PDF format. It has a diagram of the CD drive. Complete service manual in PDF format.
Some photos of the CD mechanism and head are under the spoiler.
There is an issue when trying to play tracks recorded near the end of a CD. Usually, this happens with the last 2–3 tracks, possibly those close to the Lead-Out area.
Problems:
1. If you select the last or second-to-last track manually, the player makes repeated searching sounds but does not play the track.
2. When playing the CD in order (track by track), everything works fine. However, if the last or second-to-last track is playing and you try to fast-forward to the middle of the track, an error occurs.
3. I noticed that if I gently tap the back wall in the area where the disc player is located, the track either skips or jumps to another one. This happens regardless of where the laser is on the disc during playback. I think the issue might be related to the error correction system, which could be too sensitive, preventing the laser from focusing properly on the tracks closer to the end of the disc. In this area, the disc's vibrations reach their maximum amplitude.
The music center correctly displays the total CD length and the number of tracks (TOC).
What has been done:
- The CD drive rails have been cleaned and oiled.
- The spindle motor and head motor bearings have been lubricated.
- The laser lens has been cleaned.
Question:
How can I fix the issue with switching to the last tracks?
Attached the service manual in PDF format. It has a diagram of the CD drive. Complete service manual in PDF format.
Some photos of the CD mechanism and head are under the spoiler.
The photo of the lens was taken before it was cleaned.
[\spoiler]
[\spoiler]
Last edited:
dr*audio
Fish fingers and custard!
I can't read Russian so I have no clue what you are asking.Музыкальный центр: LG LM-K2530X
Возникает проблема при попытке воспроизвести треки, записанные ближе к концу компакт-диска. Обычно это происходит с последними 2–3 треками, возможно, с теми, которые проявляются в области Lead-Out .
Проблемы:
1. Если вручную выбрать последний или предпочитаемый трек, плеер издает повторяющиеся звуки поиска, но не воспроизводит трек.
2. При воспроизведении компакт-диска по порядку (трек за треком) все работает нормально. Однако если воспроизводится последний или предпоследний трек и вы пытаетесь перемотать его на середину, возникает ошибка.
Музыкальный центр корректно отображает продолжительность компакт-диска и количество треков (TOC).
Что сделано:
- Направляющие CD-привода очищены и смазаны.
- Подшипники двигателя шпинделя и головки двигателя смазаны.
- Линза лазерной очистки.
Вопрос:
Как решить проблему с переключением последних треков?
Прилагаю руководство по обслуживанию в формате PDF. В нем есть схема CD-привода. Полное руководство по эксплуатации в формате pdf.
Some photos of the CD mechanism and head are under the spoiler.
[\spoiler]
Sorry, the translator did the job. Now everything is fine.