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Ultimate Advice MC2300/MC2500/MC2600

Rich, that's a piece of history there for sure. I'm sitting here listening to Greg Allman on my MC2600 / Altecs and I couldn't be happier. In the past, I've been somewhat hard on the MC2500 but its possible it was unwarranted. Maybe I got an oddball amp - who knows. This I do know - the MC2600 can deliver nearly double the current as an MC2500.

Folks say the MC500 is sweet and I certainly enjoy mine but the MC2600 is hard to fault.
 
If you have ever heard a big Mac amp such as a 2300 drive multiple woofers bi amped and the amp goes into clipping you can surely hear the it. Where if you are using an amp such as a 2500 with Power Guard you can hear the power guard work when the light is flashing over 25% of the duty cycle. It has a sound similar to a Urei 1167 peak limiter. Thje over all volume continues to go up but peaks arer knocked down, until the power guard is working over 50% of the time and then if you have driving bass you can hear it modulated the upper bass and lower midrange depending on what frequency the electronic crossover is set. If the frequency is low like 80 hz for a home theatre there are no ill effects. But if the frequency is set at 700 hz to prevent destruction of HF drivers in a 2 -way system you can hear the bass pump the midrange quite easily. But where the 2300 is creating tons of distortion easily heard from the woofers the 2500 will not with the power guard in operation. If you can't hear the difference with the power guard off on your amp you are not pegging the meters so the amp will go into distortion. Watch out your speakers are asking to be destroyed if you do. Can you imagine over 800 watts with over 50% distortion. Guaranteed to destroy drivers.
 
Mc2600

Hmm, Hello there, bit of a newby here.. However, I've owned a MC2600 for ten years and must say its top end is very clear and lucid, however the bass, well not wanting to bring on the wrath of the MC-o-files, I find lacking. I lent the MC to a friend for a wedding a couple of weeks back and I borrowed his AudioLab 8000S integrated jobby. OK, it doesn't have the conviction/authority of the MC at all, but the bass definitely goes lower and the sound stage seems fuller.. Of course if you turn the MC up so things in the room start moving around, but on an equal volume test, the AudioLab seems to have the edge in the bottom notes...I'm starting to worry that those bottle sized caps might be beginning to dry out... I'm getting the MC back next week so I can do a direct comparison...
 
WRATH! SNARL! just kidding....ya know people often talk of the 2600 like there is something wrong with it. I still want one, lol. I have no problem with you stating your opinion. you also actually have owned and heard what you are talking about. It could be the caps, even that unit is quickly approaching TLC time. I love McIntosh, it is my favorite, but that doesn't mean other brands of gear lose all respect. I have many pho cartridges for example, some low end, some medium and some high end. Each one of them does something very well, each one of them is not as good as one of the others in one aspect. Mc does the most right most of the time, ,ore than many other brands, thats why the main system is built around it. I wouldnt say the same of my 2500 as you said about your 2600. I hope one day I get to hear one so I can see if I;d agree with you.
 
hmmm ... can't say I've ever heard that before ... if anything, the bottom end of the MC2600 is often reported as just the opposite. Maybe you should try different taps in an effort to better match the amp to your speakers.
 
Amps with low damping factor sound totally different than amps with high damping factor depending on the type of speaker you have. If the speaker system has a high q in the bass then the woofer cone is being controlled by the suspension and the loading of the box. There fore the bass from a 2301 with a low damping factor will not sound that much different than the bass from a 7200 with a moderately high damping factor. If your speaker has low Q where the suspension of the woofer is controlled more by the amp then the difference in sound can be quite real. An amp with a damping factor of 12 may have a response of +/- 2.5db due to the reactance of the load, speaker, the amp is driving. An amp with a damping factor of over 200 the response variation could be less than 1/2 db. That's just frequency response. We are not talking about transient response on how fast a cone starts or stops. The higher the damping factor the better the stop and start. There is one issue we haven't covered. Thats the crossover. It can easily influence the sound production of the drivers that are not controlled by the suspension and box. They become sloppy. Take the crossover with all the coils, series resistance and shorten the speaker cables and an amp with a moderate damping factor has a chance to control the woofer. That's why bi-amping horn loaded speakers, Klipsch, Altec, JBL, EV, Tannoy etc etc really improve by taking a way the passive crossovers and using electronic crossovers. Mac speakers where the crossover stays in the circuit improve very little by bi or tri wiring. That is unless the different amps have their own built in different sound, such as tube versus SS or 1st generation SS versus the later balanced and Quad balanced amps. Amps such as Krell and Ayre, sound different because of the different applied theory of operation. Which amp sounds best with a given speaker is the choice of the new owner. For me its SS MC-207's without autoformers and high damping factor, with big wire, bi-amped and tri-amped. If I owned XR290's, I'd have 501's or ,if blessed, 1.2K's. With the runs as short as possible and bigger wire.

Now because the 2300, 2500, and 2600 have low to moderate damping factor all things be equal the 2600 should have the best control of the woofers. With later topology and devices the 2600 is quieter, has a magnitude less distortion and is more speaker friendly with power guard. The highs are so much better unless you start modulating the mids and highs by over driving the amp into pumping with percussive bass which screws up dynamics, imaging, etc etc. In a perfect world are speakers would be full range, handle limitless power, have no distortion, and be very very efficient. We would not need big amps. But as most speaker designers have taken the easy way out to get lower distortion and better bandwidth by using low efficiency speakers we are stuck with big amps. Where are the new reincarnated James Lansing Rudy Bozak, & Frank Mcintosh,to return some sanity in the reproduction of life like sound in the home with out the big $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.
 
Not this damping factor nonsense again.........I thought we had rationalised all this in our discussion a while back?

The maths simply does not add up to damping factor making one bit of difference.....its been proved over and over and over again, and yet there is still some belief that it makes a difference....

Whatever is going on with the varying performance of these amplifiers has nothing whatsoever to do with damping factor.....

This despite Crown marketing their amplifiers performance based around their incredibly high damping factors....

Food for thought!!
 
I'll have a play around with different taps once I get it back. re the Power Guard, I can't tell the difference whether its on or off - apart from times when it should be kicking in and its not switched on of course DOH.
Hmm, from the comments, I might get it looked at, I'll report back on the McIntosh forum...
 
I'll have a play around with different taps once I get it back. re the Power Guard, I can't tell the difference whether its on or off - apart from times when it should be kicking in and its not switched on of course DOH.
Hmm, from the comments, I might get it looked at, I'll report back on the McIntosh forum...

Unless the Powerguard is actually limiting (red Lights On), there is no change to the audio whatsoever....
 
New to me MC2300

Great threads here on the MC2300, thanks so much.

Just picked this up - one owner, downsizing and it's a sweet piece. Very early serial number I believe - 1Y070. It appears bone stock and a good 9.5 of 10 after some blowing out, polishing, DeOxit, etc. Flitz on the top, face, handles, rails and replaced some stainless bolts. All lights are working and meters are just awesome.

Interesting the rear tag indicates it was "Factory Reconditioned" and it has a rotary knob installed that operates the fan speed - pretty nice for the early series. Both fans appear to have been replaced, not appearing stock based on other pics I've seen, but they work perfectly.

Has anyone seen this before? Pics attached, it was very well done and wondering if installed by McIntosh when they refurbished it?

I can't wait to get it hooked up and driving my Infinity QLS - they will enjoy this power amp as much as the Dead:) Just moved it to the audio room, updates tomorrow.
 

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Moved it into the main audio room last night, sure looks nice. Dwarfs my MC2205 and my Sunfire amps in the rack:) Looking forward to hooking up and trying it out tonight.
 

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Congrats to you that's one really clean looking 2300:thmbsp: That should drive those notoriously hard to drive Quantums without breaking a sweat. And it should really light up those Altecs. Looks like some fun comparisons coming up soon.
I'm thinking that poor little milk crate had to be straining with all that Mcweight sitting on it:yes:
 
Early units had issues with the driver transistors. First part sub happened in "75 or so, then again in the early 80s. Most likely sent to the factory by the first dealer for reconditioning. These "repack" units were then resold by a select group of dealers at a discounted price without a service contract.

I am sure the fans were done much later.
 
I've never seen an MC2300 with that style of handles (MC3500 / MI350) from the factory but that is a VERY early serial number. I own a VERY early MC2600 (FS1006) and it also has some differences from the later units.

As for the fan control, that definitely seems to be a feature some DIYer added. If the fans are set up to blow IN to the chassis (typically a dead give away if you can read the labels on the fans from the rear), you may choose to reverse them so they pull air through the chassis and across the heatsinks. This will work better and reduce the amount of dust and debris that gets into the amp.

Enjoy it. MC2300s are great amplifiers.
 
Interesting the rear tag indicates it was "Factory Reconditioned" and it has a rotary knob installed that operates the fan speed - pretty nice for the early series. Both fans appear to have been replaced, not appearing stock based on other pics I've seen, but they work perfectly.

Has anyone seen this before? Pics attached, it was very well done and wondering if installed by McIntosh when they refurbished it?
.
Interesting. Never saw a rear knob like that on any Mc2300.
 
Congrats to you that's one really clean looking 2300:thmbsp: That should drive those notoriously hard to drive Quantums without breaking a sweat. And it should really light up those Altecs. Looks like some fun comparisons coming up soon.
I'm thinking that poor little milk crate had to be straining with all that Mcweight sitting on it:yes:

Going to try bi wire on the QLS this evening. Presently running them with Sunfire 300~2 on the woofers and McIntosh MC30 mono block tubes up top and sound very nice. Amazing what 30 tube watts can do.

Think this amp would blow up the efficient Altecs, LOL! It should be a good match for the Mc XR19s in the corner of the photos.
 
Early units had issues with the driver transistors. First part sub happened in "75 or so, then again in the early 80s. Most likely sent to the factory by the first dealer for reconditioning. These "repack" units were then resold by a select group of dealers at a discounted price without a service contract.

I am sure the fans were done much later.

Thanks for the reply and the info. The fans are mismatched, not a matched pair. See below for further reply on the fans.
 
I've never seen an MC2300 with that style of handles (MC3500 / MI350) from the factory but that is a VERY early serial number. I own a VERY early MC2600 (FS1006) and it also has some differences from the later units.

As for the fan control, that definitely seems to be a feature some DIYer added. If the fans are set up to blow IN to the chassis (typically a dead give away if you can read the labels on the fans from the rear), you may choose to reverse them so they pull air through the chassis and across the heatsinks. This will work better and reduce the amount of dust and debris that gets into the amp.

Enjoy it. MC2300s are great amplifiers.

Good eye, I didn't even notice that. I see pics of the handles that have some angle to them, not 90 degree bends like mine. But I also see some pics just like mine when Googling for images. Ya, it may be one of the earliest out there.

Fans blow out (understand the fans blew in on the first series, then out on second series) and definitely makes more sense to draw air through side vents and out of the unit.

I know you love these amps, read all about them and your inputs. Looking forward to firing it up this evening! I just had a dedicated 20 amp circuit installed this week as my VU meter lights were flickering when I was cranking the gear:) This will be on it's own circuit.
 
Interesting. Never saw a rear knob like that on any Mc2300.

I haven't come across it in any pics, threads or literature either. Probably added as you guys suggested. But, it's done well and it works, so glad it's there. I can turn fan speed way down or crank it up if I'm running awhile. Like a manually activated thermostatic fan control.
 

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I haven't come across it in any pics, threads or literature either. Probably added as you guys suggested. But, it's done well and it works, so glad it's there. I can turn fan speed way down or crank it up if I'm running awhile. Like a manually activated thermostatic fan control.

Cool that it is factory reconditioned. I had to upgrade the driver boards on one of my Mc2300's. (1Y975) The longer I run my pair of 2300's together, the more I am put off by the full throttle fan noise @ idle.
I simply crank them up so I don't hear the fans :D
 
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