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Vintage Direct Drive turntables 'by reliability'

Zombie thread but for anyone looking in the Kenwood KP-990 would have been the best choice of the options the OP presented, and not by a small margin.

This is what's hiding under the beautiful exterior of the 990
View attachment 2957388

Some like to run them nude and with multiple arms
View attachment 2957387
I have one! I need some advise as to how to adjust the tonearm lifter. Also, I'm having issues with inconsistent VTF settings. I have adjusted the tonearm height and wondering if that has anything to do with it. Love the pic with the nude 990!
 
I have one! I need some advise as to how to adjust the tonearm lifter. Also, I'm having issues with inconsistent VTF settings. I have adjusted the tonearm height and wondering if that has anything to do with it. Love the pic with the nude 990!
Hello !
I have the 770th Kenwood. The design of the tonearm is similar to the tonearm 990. There is a small screw on the microlift foot. The red arrow shows its location.
If the screw is loosened, the tonearm foot can be moved up or down. You can adjust it.
 

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Hello !
I have the 770th Kenwood. The design of the tonearm is similar to the tonearm 990. There is a small screw on the microlift foot. The red arrow shows its location.
If the screw is loosened, the tonearm foot can be moved up or down. You can adjust it.
I did see that screw, do you adjust it while the tonearm lift is down or up? Or doesn't it make a difference?
 
I did see that screw, do you adjust it while the tonearm lift is down or up? Or doesn't it make a difference?
This screw must be loosened when the tonearm is raised ( UP ) . Then the elevator shelf is adjusted manually. This adjusts the height of the needle above the plate ( when the tonearm is raised ).
 

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This screw must be loosened when the tonearm is raised ( UP ) . Then the elevator shelf is adjusted manually. This adjusts the height of the needle above the plate ( when the tonearm is raised ).
Gotcha! Thanks!!
Any advice on the tonearm inconsistency with VTF?
 
Gotcha! Thanks!!
Any advice on the tonearm inconsistency with VTF?
What is the discrepancy? On my tonearm, the tracking force corresponds to the values on the tonearm weight. But I'm used to using electronic scales to control the tracking force.
The Kenwood Tonearm 770 is slightly lighter than the tonearm 990. The tonearm is straight - the length of the tonearm tube is less . And the headshell 770 is also lighter than that of the 990 ( 10 grams versus 12 grams ) .
I use different cartridges - Empire, Shure, AT, Ortofon, Sony. The sound is always good. I like these Kenwood turntables.
 
What is the discrepancy? On my tonearm, the tracking force corresponds to the values on the tonearm weight. But I'm used to using electronic scales to control the tracking force.
The Kenwood Tonearm 770 is slightly lighter than the tonearm 990. The tonearm is straight - the length of the tonearm tube is less . And the headshell 770 is also lighter than that of the 990 ( 10 grams versus 12 grams ) .
I use different cartridges - Empire, Shure, AT, Ortofon, Sony. The sound is always good. I like these Kenwood turntables.
I use an electronic scale also, in fact, I have two, just to double check. When I place the stylus on the scale, it gives me a reading, then the reading will re-calculate and show a heavier reading, prolly a 1/10 to 2/10 of a gram. And it will continue until for about a full gram to 1.5 gram until it settles for good. I've had to pull the counterweight back to the edge of the tonearm shaft and I still can't get a 2 gram reading. I had to put some lead tape on the back of the counterweight to get it to give me a 2 g VTF. I use a Yamamoto Onkyo HS-4S carbon fiber headshell with currently, a Hana Blue Umami. Have used Ortofon Blue and Stanton previously. Never had a problem with it until after changing from the Stanton, which I had to change the tonearm level. I'm figuring that maybe a snugged the set screws too tight when I changed the tonearm level? Seems like the pivot point of the tone arm is not set right. What do you think?
 
I use an electronic scale also, in fact, I have two, just to double check. When I place the stylus on the scale, it gives me a reading, then the reading will re-calculate and show a heavier reading, prolly a 1/10 to 2/10 of a gram. And it will continue until for about a full gram to 1.5 gram until it settles for good. I've had to pull the counterweight back to the edge of the tonearm shaft and I still can't get a 2 gram reading. I had to put some lead tape on the back of the counterweight to get it to give me a 2 g VTF. I use a Yamamoto Onkyo HS-4S carbon fiber headshell with currently, a Hana Blue Umami. Have used Ortofon Blue and Stanton previously. Never had a problem with it until after changing from the Stanton, which I had to change the tonearm level. I'm figuring that maybe a snugged the set screws too tight when I changed the tonearm level? Seems like the pivot point of the tone arm is not set right. What do you think?
I can assume that the tension of the tonearm wires ( at the outlet of the tonearm support ) it may affect the tracking force .
My tonearm has never had such problems. I changed the tonearm height several times. It always worked well.
You need to disassemble the turntable and carefully inspect the tonearm. When removing the autolift mirror, mark its original position. This will keep the autolift working correctly after assembly.
 
1/11/25
I haven’t had as much as a hiccup from any of my bought used "Technics" vintage tables. I presently own eight.
If I decided to, I’d go out and buy a couple of ‘new’ Technics tables as they are superb by all accounts but, I won’t just yet as I’m quite content with my vintage first edition of Technic’s DD tables. If my experience and use is a testament to their design and quality of such designs, I must be the poster-child.

I rather enjoy trying out and using different MC cartridges such as, my Lyra Delos and Kleos, Audiotechnica ART-9, and my TOTL for me, a Benz-Micro Gull-WIng as my daily drivers. I run S.M.E.’s and Dynavector 505’s in the two systems I have.
See last post: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/technics-turntables-diamonds-in-the-rough.1075549/#post-17527257

I’m sure the newer Technics must be an absolute pleasure to use and no doubt an up to date improvement in sound but, I’d rather have more fun trying out different cartridges and tone arms as my tables will remain the constant.

Since I’ve dabbled in the car hobby in the ’80s, it’s easiest for me to apply the ‘car-analogy-premise’ to say as if you’re certain you have good enough, wide enough rims and now the only improvements would be better and more performance orientated performance tires. Providing your suspension and chassis can handle it, of course.

P.S. @ BroncoE, I'm a late comer to this post but, sounds like the top of your scale platform is metal? If so, the scale's metal plate and the cartridge's magnets are falsifying your weight readings as the scale and cartridge's magnets will attract one and the other.

FM



5
 
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I can assume that the tension of the tonearm wires ( at the outlet of the tonearm support ) it may affect the tracking force .
My tonearm has never had such problems. I changed the tonearm height several times. It always worked well.
You need to disassemble the turntable and carefully inspect the tonearm. When removing the autolift mirror, mark its original position. This will keep the autolift working correctly after assembly.
I hope that I don't end up having to do that! The weird screws along side of the pivot point on the tone arm, do those have any function to adjust? BTW, your knowledge and advice on this TT is helping me tremendously!! Thank you!!
 
I noticed the 701, 704, 721 aren't QL. Any QL Duals worth considering in this price range? thanks
I have to confess that I was done with vinyl until my children became interested in it, so I hooked up my 721 to my M33 integrated amp and I'll be testing it later this week. However, there is a small speed control with a strobe to adjust it to play vinyl properly.
 
Every 70's DD I've owned, irrespective of brand, has needed some level of servicing to get them back up to snuff. Own three currently. Not trying to scare you off as quite often the repairs are not that difficult to accomplish, and afterwards you are rewarded with a table with great specs. Semi autos esp seem pretty repair friendly. Full auto's though can be challenging.
Yes. Vintage gear, regardless of make or model, is vintage. A clean, lube & recap are generally the minimum for another 40-50 years of trouble-free operation for manual models of any make. Add in any semi or full-auto functions and the complexity and worn components become a steeper hill to climb.
That said, my refurbished Denon DP-80 was an excellent piece, as is my current Sony PS-X75 (very complex with a servo controlled TA).
 
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