Where to start on this Pioneer TT?

[PureQuill]

I just picked up this Pioneer PL-117D TT for $20.
It obviously needs a new belt & cleaning.
Anyone know anything about the Empire cart?
Going to download the service manual.
Any help or advise to help me get this thing going again is greatly appreciated!

 

[illini]

Nice headshell.

 

[Grbluen]

I like the Pioneers of that vintage. I think they have a very distinctive and classy look.
Congrats!

Sorry that I'm of no help.

 

[Montycat]

I usually try to scrape (gently!) the belt residue away. Something like the material & stiffness of a credit card would work but be very careful if using a metal tool. Then use alcohol and Q-tips and/or paper towels to get the rest. Make sure you thoroughly clean the belt track including the motor pulley.

After the black goo is all gone I usually use a wet green 3M pad or something similar for the final cleanup on those surfaces to get it really clean and smooth.

The belt you need is a 23.6". Before putting a belt on you should oil the motor. Below the brass pulley you should see 2 small holes marked "oil" (surprise!). A drop or 2 in each should be enough. A small amount below the white cog on the spindle would also be a good idea.

 

[PureQuill]

@ Monty thanks for the info the belt has “melted" into the platter & plinth.
Cleaning up the platter was easy enough...the plinth not so much. It discolored the paint oh well for $20 it’s under the plater & something I can live with.
New belt is on the way. Going to wet sand & polish the dust cover tomorrow.:thmbsp:

 

[scorpio]

I just picked up this Pioneer PL-117D TT for $20.

It obviously needs a new belt & cleaning.

Dunno about this model, but the 12D had a spindle bearing that could be replaced. Also recall something about write grease for the bearing. Bet you could find a schematic and the manual online without too much trouble. Looks like a fun project.

 

[Leestereo]

Dunno about this model, but the 12D had a spindle bearing that could be replaced. Also recall something about write grease for the bearing. Bet you could find a schematic and the manual online without too much trouble. Looks like a fun project.

+1
The 115 and 117 both use a replaceable ball bearing, and iirc, the bearing well contained oil, not grease.

 

[Ths364]

Those are good sounding carts. You can probably find a good stylus on the 'bay for about $20-30 (maybe less).

 

[macyjrm]

So the next step would be to gently pull up on the spindle to remove it from the well. (You may need to use some penetrating oil to free it). Be very careful not to lose the tiny ball bearing at the bottom of the well, or it may stick to the bottom end of the spindle as mine did. Once removed and the ball bearing set aside, clean out the spindle well with lighter fluid or something similar using Qtips. As best you can, polish the spindle and the well using metal polish or auto polish to get the spinning surfaces as smooth as possible. Then reinstall the ball bearing and spindle (I lightly lubricate them first with Remington gun oil). Then place the platter on the spindle and spin away.

 

[PureQuill]

So the next step would be to gently pull up on the spindle to remove it from the well. (You may need to use some penetrating oil to free it). Be very careful not to lose the tiny ball bearing at the bottom of the well, or it may stick to the bottom end of the spindle as mine did. Once removed and the ball bearing set aside, clean out the spindle well with lighter fluid or something similar using Qtips. As best you can, polish the spindle and the well using metal polish or auto polish to get the spinning surfaces as smooth as possible. Then reinstall the ball bearing and spindle (I lightly lubricate them first with Remington gun oil). Then place the platter on the spindle and spin away.

Thanks for the great advise. I will service & lubricate the spindle & bearings.:thmbsp:

 

[kirkendoll]

on my 112d the belt goo coated the top of the motor so I had to pull the motor off and scrape the goo off the top of it and also out of the oil holes, and I bought some 2 inch red oak veneer at Lowe's it is the perfect size and makes re-veneering that table a walk in the park :thmbsp:

 

[PureQuill]

on my 112d the belt goo coated the top of the motor so I had to pull the motor off and scrape the goo off the top of it and also out of the oil holes, and I bought some 2 inch red oak veneer at Lowe's it is the perfect size and makes re-veneering that table a walk in the park :thmbsp:

Thanks! for a great idea the faux veneer could use an upgrade!:thmbsp:

 

[kirkendoll]

Here is mine after the veneer basically just cut to length, iron on, trim, sand, and then stain, this was my first time ever to stain and I could of done a lot better of a job I would of liked to have it darker, another mod I did was to replace the flimsy base with a piece of 3\4 inch plywood.

 

[PureQuill]

Here is mine after the veneer basically just cut to length, iron on, trim, sand, and then stain, this was my first time ever to stain and I could of done a lot better of a job I would of liked to have it darker, another mod I did was to replace the flimsy base with a piece of 3\4 inch plywood.

:thmbsp:Wow looks real nice!

 

[KentTeffeteller]

A beautiful restoration. I like this turntable a lot. They perform great and look great too. .

 

[PureQuill]

Overhang Gage?

OK I am going to mount a Grado Black cart on this table until I can find the correct stylus for the Empire cart. According to page 3 of the owners manual there was an accessory overhang gage which I don't have. Any advise on how to correctly mount a cart on this head-shell?
Thanks
PQ

 

[Ths364]

The service manual (try Vinylengine.com) should give a number (probably in millimeters) for the overhang adjustment. It will be the distance from the stub of the removable headshell to the stylus tip, or it will be expressed as the distance (in mm) that the stylus tip should extend beyond the center spindle if you move the tonearm so the cart is positioned over the spindle. If you dont have a mm scale to measure with, 25.4 mm to the inch or approx 3mm= 1/8 inch.

 

[Ths364]

Looks like overhang spec is 15.5 mm. IIRC, overhang is measured from spindle center. 1/4" spindle= 6mm, subtract 3mm to get to center and since it's difficult to measure from the center we'll subtract the 3mm from our original 15,5 so we can put our ruler against the edge of the spindle and we get 12.5 which is VERY close to half of our 25.4 (1 inch), so we have an offset (overhang) of 1/2". Square the cartridge in the headshell, set the stylus so that it is 1/2" past the center spindle and you're good.

 

[PureQuill]

Looks like overhang spec is 15.5 mm. IIRC, overhang is measured from spindle center. 1/4" spindle= 6mm, subtract 3mm to get to center and since it's difficult to measure from the center we'll subtract the 3mm from our original 15,5 so we can put our ruler against the edge of the spindle and we get 12.5 which is VERY close to half of our 25.4 (1 inch), so we have an offset (overhang) of 1/2". Square the cartridge in the headshell, set the stylus so that it is 1/2" past the center spindle and you're good.

Awesome thanks!
PQ

 

[Inscrutable]

:tears:
Bittersweet thread. This was my first table out of college, and I pretty much gave it away a few years back. Been thinking of recreating that system. I'm usually a dyslexic investor (buy high, sell low), now I am recidivist too - buy high, sell low, buy high (again)
:screwy:

Btw, after my M91ED, I had a Grado Black on it that worked very well.

Oh, and if you want to get more adventurous on the veneer, a place called Oakwood Veneer appears to sell all kinds of exotic wood veneers at very reasonable prices. I haven't bought there before, but am about to try them.