Which AKers are surfers?Local break pictures please.
- Thread starter theophile
- Start date
onepixel
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Robbie lives on the North Shore on Maui. Most of the good surfer, winger, kiters, sailers and water sport companies live there.
Life is a Beach
When Duke Kahanamoku brought surfing to Australia, he couldn't have chosen a better place to transplant it. We have endless empty beaches and to a large degree the coastal communities here in Oz embrace the beach lifestyle. It is hard to beat.
onepixel
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Duke came and surfed in Santa Cruz, years ago. I surfed there for decades. He surfed without a wetsuit. That's is impressive. It's crazy cold. Years of that cold surfing and I got surfer ear and lost some hearing one of my ears.
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Oh I hear you about Surfer's Ear(pun intended). Every MD who has looked in my ears has asked "Are you a sailor/fisherman or a surfer". Got it in both ears. Worse on the Left.
Duke was a tough guy. I'll bet that he was thinking of Hawaii's warm water whilst surfing Santa cruz and Sydney both. Neither have warm water. Santa Cruz would be the least warm of the two. Weren't O'Neill wetsuits from Santa Cruz?
Duke was a tough guy. I'll bet that he was thinking of Hawaii's warm water whilst surfing Santa cruz and Sydney both. Neither have warm water. Santa Cruz would be the least warm of the two. Weren't O'Neill wetsuits from Santa Cruz?
Wow I had no idea about this thread. I grew up in west LA in the 80s so yeah, this is nostalgic. @mfrench posts especially are spot on.
Surf culture, enjoying waves, and riding a hard board…three overlapping circles, the last being incredibly small. Everyone boogie boarded until middle school. For me , I loved skateboarding but I also did traditional sports and was always aware I’d lose my position if I got injured. Skating and then later surfing became off season larks. Access was difficult, as soon as it hits 2 foot swell, there’s so many bodies out there. My hope was to arrive at sunset as the wind died and get 20-30 minutes and find it uncrowded.
Later as an adult I lived in Boston near the water. There was a cove where it would develop a break during hurricane or winter storm swells. Maybe 18 inches high and running about a hundred yards. And I saw a handful of times over two decades…surfers! They had fiberglass longboards and Jacque Cousteau wetsuits and they’d catch a couple dozen in an hour. I thought about it and said no effin way.
My days only spanned high school. My younger brother has lived in OC and south shore LA all his life. He’d travel on surf vacations.
The pics in this thread are . Nowadays I watch a decent amount of the YouTube for the super gnarly stuff…nazare shipstern(?) north shore. Wave farms who woulda thunk it???!!!
Surf culture, enjoying waves, and riding a hard board…three overlapping circles, the last being incredibly small. Everyone boogie boarded until middle school. For me , I loved skateboarding but I also did traditional sports and was always aware I’d lose my position if I got injured. Skating and then later surfing became off season larks. Access was difficult, as soon as it hits 2 foot swell, there’s so many bodies out there. My hope was to arrive at sunset as the wind died and get 20-30 minutes and find it uncrowded.
Later as an adult I lived in Boston near the water. There was a cove where it would develop a break during hurricane or winter storm swells. Maybe 18 inches high and running about a hundred yards. And I saw a handful of times over two decades…surfers! They had fiberglass longboards and Jacque Cousteau wetsuits and they’d catch a couple dozen in an hour. I thought about it and said no effin way.
My days only spanned high school. My younger brother has lived in OC and south shore LA all his life. He’d travel on surf vacations.
The pics in this thread are . Nowadays I watch a decent amount of the YouTube for the super gnarly stuff…nazare shipstern(?) north shore. Wave farms who woulda thunk it???!!!
onepixel
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I sometimes surfed out in front of Jack's (O'Neil) house in Santa Cruz. He and his house is iconic. It's the only house on the beach on the West Side. I wore Ripcurl wetsuits, because they had an outlet and had great sales.
Started using ear plugs and hood once my hearing was affected.
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I've seen surfers in Chicago (Lake Michigan) in early March. That water is COLD!
You must really love surfing to do that.
They all seemed to be smiling though. Maybe it was a grimace...
onepixel
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The Stoke!
Coupled with the rarity of being surfable.
