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Which AKers are surfers?Local break pictures please.

theophile said:
Nice rounded pin.
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Good Eye Theophile, a bit more pointed than round.
I wish I still had that board. 7"0" potato chip flat in the tail, v-bottom in front of the fin up to center.

Magical Malibu:yes:
 

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That 'Magical Malibu' shot looks like a still from Morning of the Earth.Michael Peterson at Kirra.

Very reminiscent.
 

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Nat Young visited Malibu Point in 1968 and really impressed a few people including shaper Greg Liddle whose surfboard design and the surfers that rode them becoming quite iconic so Malibu Point quickly became a hotbed of revolutionary short boarding and post long board stylistic surfing.
http://www.liddlesurfboards.com/
 
Hey jaguar,

It only took you 15 minutes to paddle out at Ocean Beach?! That place can be brutal! Did you catch the recent ASP World Tour there?

Linda Mar in Pacifica can be good with the right conditions, it closes out most of the other times. I caught 3 waves in 1 1/2 hours there last Sunday.

The wave at the HMB jetty isn't much. On a rare occasion it can be fun. Bolinas is suppose to be pretty good, but sharky.

Cowells can be fun for a longboard. But this year it was weird. It broke way outside more than usual. The sand shifts around after big winter storms. The rides in the summer can be ridiculously long.

38th Ave. in Santa Cruz, right in front Jack O'Neil's house is good for longboards too. Pleasure Point, a paddle up can be very good. I surfed those waves last Friday and Saturday. The Hook, across from the parking lot just before 38th is mainly short boarders. There are always one or two agro assholes that yell at longboarders.
 
Hey jaguar,

It only took you 15 minutes to paddle out at Ocean Beach?! That place can be brutal! Did you catch the recent ASP World Tour there?
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Well, I didn't wanna bring up the second time I paddled out, but didn't even make it out! Walked home defeated.

Was at Pacifica skatepark and Taco Bell last Sunday. Most of the waves looked like walls, breaking all the way across at once.We laughed at the kayakers getting swamped constantly. Great fun.

My bandmates and roommate are always going to Pleasure Point in the summer. Had zero interest in ever surfing again until a couple months ago, so I've never made it down there with them. Getting a taste at OB makes me want to go down there and surf some fun waves though. Don't like feeling like I'm fighting for survival when I'm surfing.

Didn't watch the contest. It's still weird to me that it took place here. I guess shortly before there was a contest in NYC??? Hmm
 
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onepixel said:
Here is one from the quiver.

fins.jpg
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Birds of a feather:)
Mine is a 9'6" custom shaped by N.American McTavish shaper Pat Ryan.
I actually don't care for the thruster fins an prefer a very flexy George Greenough single fin.
What I really like about this board is the subtle but dynamic bottom bevel on the rails which magically turns this board into an extremely manuverable performer and really works well in 3-6 foot point surf:banana:
 
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mfrench said:
I grew up in an area of good winter surf in California (october->april/may). We'd get north and west swells, with some of really gigantic proportions, 20'+. It was a peninsula on the south end of Santa Monica Bay, called Palos Verdes, Lunada Bay. I don't have any personal pictures of the waves, but was able to scrounge around and find some. The place has a nasty reputation for localism. Photographers were pretty well shunned and shut down.
I went to a school in 6->8th grades called Malaga Cove School that was literally across the street from Haggertys. I then went onto Palos Verdes High School which was right across the street from Lunada Bay, all from around '71->'78. I surfed everyday that there were waves, and was one of the locals. I moved away in '78, southward about 50 miles to Laguna Beach, where I found more reef and point surf to my liking at a break called Bird Rock and Rock Pile on a beach called Rock Beach.
I still have a 9'6" Hobie longboard, though I don't surf much anymore due to the water tasting like, well, a sewer. I'm a goofy-footer.

Here are a few scrounged up pictures that I found web surfing.


Haggertys:
cad_hags.jpg


Lunada Bay - The Point:
findo_lunadabay.jpg

37788436_847ffad7a1_z.jpg

87160725_8dfcb25a6a_z.jpg

photo_surf_USA_California_LA_County_lunada_bay_43f041f472c7b.jpg

photo4049fe47ac5c1.jpg


Lunada Bay - Avalanche (the left reef break off the point) and Wallies (the right point). This is the southern side of Lunada Bay.
Lunada-Bay.jpg

Inside Lunada Bay, showing some reef structure. You can see the Avalanche reef, and inside of it is a reef called Mikes reef. Sorry about the small size:
ms.jpg

Mikes reef breaking, and Avalanche reef at too low of a tide The inner most right near the bottom left corner is called Middles (because its in the middle of the bay):
6d2fc65c-f4fa-4543-8005-85be98325fbe.jpg


This is a website dedicated to documenting the erosion of the coastline of California. THis particular image shows Wallys breaking and the white water remnants of Avalanche breaking.
If you go to the left set of arrows, you'll cross Lunada bay, and get to the point (the right point break). It also shows a giant left reef break called Dominators, named for a freighter that ran aground there in the late 50's early 60's. IT doesn;t show the wave so much, as it show the reef structure. Dominators is a giant break with three distinct tube sections that you could drive a truck through (also referred to sometimes as Truck Drivers).
http://www.californiacoastline.org/cgi-bin/image.cgi?image=8373&mode=sequential&flags=0&year=2002
Here is a website covering SoCal surf and the Lunada Bay page. The Point is the featured wave image:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/lunada-bay-southern-california_4935/travel/
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He may be tad younger but did you happen to know Palos Verdes resident David Champlin? He supposedly knew the locals and invited my friends and I to surf Lunada. Only problem was I had/have no interest in huge waves other than observing....plus the drive and walk-down:)
 
Went to Pleasure Point today. It was waist to head high and got crowded. A film crew had taken over the surfer's parking lot and a good chunk of the Cliff Drive. They were shooting some kinda movie.

Doing dawn patrol so I need to crash.

pleasure-point1.jpg
 
From Phillip Island, Victoria Australia (famous for surf/surfers, about an hour south of Melbourne) to Fukuoka, Japan. LOTS of surfers here, not lots of surf. Total respect for the locals- any weather conditions, there will be 500,000 Blokes thrashing their way through the wind slop in hope that it will form a wave. Lots of effort for little reward.
Bought a new longboard when I moved here in '97. Currently covered in dust, admist hi-fi junk in a mountain village (post second child).
Plenty of good surf down south of this island (Kyushu). Working 7 days a week makes a road trip difficult.
Just found a bloke's blog with a couple of photos of beaches I used to frequent:
http://www.fukuokadreaming.com/?p=982
 
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You sound like you have found a 'niche' in Japan where you are happy living with your family and have employment.

That's nice.Love the ones you are with. :thmbsp:
 
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