KeninDC
Hazy Cosmic Jive
Supposed to go back in January. Way too much work to make the break.
Not complaining since working is good and makes another trip more likely.
Which AKers are surfers?Local break pictures please.
- Thread starter theophile
- Start date
Supposed to go back in January. Way too much work to make the break.
Not complaining since working is good and makes another trip more likely.
I thought that I'd resurrect this thread with some more footage of The Reef that timofred and I used to surf.
Remember when you watch the footage,that this is a suburban beach in Sydney:
http://vimeo.com/31672208
http://vimeo.com/15291708
Remember when you watch the footage,that this is a suburban beach in Sydney:
http://vimeo.com/31672208
http://vimeo.com/15291708
onepixel
.
Great tube footage. Some knarly looking waves!
I surfed three days in a row this past weekend. 38th Ave. and Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz and Linda Mar in Pacifica. Nothing epic, small to chest high fun stuff. I was at the ASP Tour at Ocean Beach in SF couple weeks ago when Slater won number 11.
Wish I was on the North Shore now for the Triple Crown.
I surfed three days in a row this past weekend. 38th Ave. and Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz and Linda Mar in Pacifica. Nothing epic, small to chest high fun stuff. I was at the ASP Tour at Ocean Beach in SF couple weeks ago when Slater won number 11.
Wish I was on the North Shore now for the Triple Crown.
That is one of the reefs that Mark Occhilupo grew-up surfing.Kinda explains how he was able to go to Hawaii for the first time,as a 16 year old,get off the plane,go to Pipeline,paddle-out at 20 foot Pipe and WIN the Pipeline Masters.
That left reef holds HUGE swells.The righthander in the thumbnails is a point-break about 3 miles from the left reef.
Suffice it to say,that the hard-core,charging locals at this beach are not intimidated when they travel to Hawaii.The local reefs and breaks have been surfed by visiting Hawaiians over the years,and they all comment on the breaks having Hawaiian punch and power.
Attachments
Skin cancers have relegated me to the sideline for the past decade.However I used to be a fan of the fin-box.Firstly because the position could be adjusted and also that substitute fins could be experimented with.
I see that your board is almost a single-fin with 'thruster' style stabilising fins.Your main fin doesn't have a lot of surface area,but it does have a lot of rake.Less drag and the ability to draw-out your turns more. :thmbsp:
I'll bet that board is fast and tube-rides well. :yes:
Due to the US surf mags(which I have been reading since 1970),I am probably more familiar with the Santa Cruz breaks and personalities(right back to Richard Schmidt)than our obscure Aussie breaks and their locals.
Surfing is the international language.
:thmbsp:
I see that your board is almost a single-fin with 'thruster' style stabilising fins.Your main fin doesn't have a lot of surface area,but it does have a lot of rake.Less drag and the ability to draw-out your turns more. :thmbsp:
I'll bet that board is fast and tube-rides well. :yes:
Due to the US surf mags(which I have been reading since 1970),I am probably more familiar with the Santa Cruz breaks and personalities(right back to Richard Schmidt)than our obscure Aussie breaks and their locals.
Surfing is the international language.
:thmbsp:
I thought you might recognize the logo. It's a McTavish an Aussie board. Those fins belong to a 9' 8". Turns great and nose rides even better.
I thought that I recognised the logo(and McTavish was the brand that I thought of).
9'8 huh.Well maybe not so easy to tube ride.
Have a look at the collection on this page:
http://vimeo.com/timbonython/videos/sort:date
There are 70 vids.
The place called 'Ours', is about a quarter of a mile north from the big left in the previous videos.
http://vimeo.com/timbonython/videos/sort:date
There are 70 vids.
The place called 'Ours', is about a quarter of a mile north from the big left in the previous videos.
mfrench
Addicted Member
I grew up in an area of good winter surf in California (october->april/may). We'd get north and west swells, with some of really gigantic proportions, 20'+. It was a peninsula on the south end of Santa Monica Bay, called Palos Verdes, Lunada Bay. I don't have any personal pictures of the waves, but was able to scrounge around and find some. The place has a nasty reputation for localism. Photographers were pretty well shunned and shut down.
I went to a school in 6->8th grades called Malaga Cove School that was literally across the street from Haggertys. I then went onto Palos Verdes High School which was right across the street from Lunada Bay, all from around '71->'78. I surfed everyday that there were waves, and was one of the locals. I moved away in '78, southward about 50 miles to Laguna Beach, where I found more reef and point surf to my liking at a break called Bird Rock and Rock Pile on a beach called Rock Beach.
I still have a 9'6" Hobie longboard, though I don't surf much anymore due to the water tasting like, well, a sewer. I'm a goofy-footer.
Here are a few scrounged up pictures that I found web surfing.
Haggertys:
Lunada Bay - The Point:
Lunada Bay - Avalanche (the left reef break off the point) and Wallies (the right point). This is the southern side of Lunada Bay.
Inside Lunada Bay, showing some reef structure. You can see the Avalanche reef, and inside of it is a reef called Mikes reef. Sorry about the small size:
Mikes reef breaking, and Avalanche reef at too low of a tide The inner most right near the bottom left corner is called Middles (because its in the middle of the bay):
This is a website dedicated to documenting the erosion of the coastline of California. THis particular image shows Wallys breaking and the white water remnants of Avalanche breaking.
If you go to the left set of arrows, you'll cross Lunada bay, and get to the point (the right point break). It also shows a giant left reef break called Dominators, named for a freighter that ran aground there in the late 50's early 60's. IT doesn;t show the wave so much, as it show the reef structure. Dominators is a giant break with three distinct tube sections that you could drive a truck through (also referred to sometimes as Truck Drivers).
http://www.californiacoastline.org/cgi-bin/image.cgi?image=8373&mode=sequential&flags=0&year=2002
Here is a website covering SoCal surf and the Lunada Bay page. The Point is the featured wave image:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/lunada-bay-southern-california_4935/travel/
I went to a school in 6->8th grades called Malaga Cove School that was literally across the street from Haggertys. I then went onto Palos Verdes High School which was right across the street from Lunada Bay, all from around '71->'78. I surfed everyday that there were waves, and was one of the locals. I moved away in '78, southward about 50 miles to Laguna Beach, where I found more reef and point surf to my liking at a break called Bird Rock and Rock Pile on a beach called Rock Beach.
I still have a 9'6" Hobie longboard, though I don't surf much anymore due to the water tasting like, well, a sewer. I'm a goofy-footer.
Here are a few scrounged up pictures that I found web surfing.
Haggertys:
Lunada Bay - The Point:
Lunada Bay - Avalanche (the left reef break off the point) and Wallies (the right point). This is the southern side of Lunada Bay.
Inside Lunada Bay, showing some reef structure. You can see the Avalanche reef, and inside of it is a reef called Mikes reef. Sorry about the small size:
Mikes reef breaking, and Avalanche reef at too low of a tide The inner most right near the bottom left corner is called Middles (because its in the middle of the bay):
This is a website dedicated to documenting the erosion of the coastline of California. THis particular image shows Wallys breaking and the white water remnants of Avalanche breaking.
If you go to the left set of arrows, you'll cross Lunada bay, and get to the point (the right point break). It also shows a giant left reef break called Dominators, named for a freighter that ran aground there in the late 50's early 60's. IT doesn;t show the wave so much, as it show the reef structure. Dominators is a giant break with three distinct tube sections that you could drive a truck through (also referred to sometimes as Truck Drivers).
http://www.californiacoastline.org/cgi-bin/image.cgi?image=8373&mode=sequential&flags=0&year=2002
Here is a website covering SoCal surf and the Lunada Bay page. The Point is the featured wave image:
http://www.surfline.com/surf-report/lunada-bay-southern-california_4935/travel/
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I've seen a lot of photos of Lunada Bay over the years in the US mags.Huge waves indeed.Thanks for all the associated images.Surfers never tire of looking at shots/vids of good waves(it's hypnotic ).
I've got some photos on my hard drive of a place called 'Ghost Trees'.That place holds gigantic waves.
).I've got some photos on my hard drive of a place called 'Ghost Trees'.That place holds gigantic waves.
onepixel
.
Not quite a traditional concave. McTavish created something different. It's a scooped out channel. Helps track while on the nose.
onepixel
.
Yup, Ghost Tree is up here in NorCal in Monterey.
I wish I was a better surfer.
My dad lives 1/2 hour from Peahi (Jaws) on Maui and Ghost Tree and Mavericks are an hour away from me.
Ghost Tree
Peahi
Maverick
mfrench
Addicted Member
Nose riding is an exquisite experience, with nothing in front of you (of the board); its like standing on the wave and magical transporting yourself across the face. Great stuff, that can only be bettered by the tube ride.
In PV, in my day, we didn't have anything like the surf leash, kook cord. We learned to shape and glass our own boards, because of the coastline there was all rocks, and not a speck of sand. So, you'd go through a few boards every winter. We also got really good at the duct tape ding patches to make em last a little bit longer, that is until they got waterlogged and too heavy. Then we'd burn them as sacrifice to the surf gods.
My nickname up there was Moke (real name Mike). I was a huge kid, and the locals liked sticking nicknames on everyone. So I became Moke (a hawaiian term for a huge local surfer). My dad accepted it as if it were my real name, and still calls me that to this day.
In PV, in my day, we didn't have anything like the surf leash, kook cord. We learned to shape and glass our own boards, because of the coastline there was all rocks, and not a speck of sand. So, you'd go through a few boards every winter. We also got really good at the duct tape ding patches to make em last a little bit longer, that is until they got waterlogged and too heavy. Then we'd burn them as sacrifice to the surf gods.
My nickname up there was Moke (real name Mike). I was a huge kid, and the locals liked sticking nicknames on everyone. So I became Moke (a hawaiian term for a huge local surfer). My dad accepted it as if it were my real name, and still calls me that to this day.
catfish
Member
I am not local so Santa Cruz is out....not good enough for Mavericks
http://youtu.be/CcioR3ElH60
http://youtu.be/CcioR3ElH60
catfish
Member
Yup, Ghost Tree is up here in NorCal in Monterey.
I wish I was a better surfer.
My dad lives 1/2 hour from Peahi (Jaws) on Maui and Ghost Tree and Mavericks are an hour away from me.
Ghost Tree
Peahi
Maverick
It's winter time so Mavericks ( a 1.5 hr drive ) is one of the places I love to go watch..
I hold no argument with surfers who balk at riding huge or even big waves.It's all to do with one of the most basic urges that we possess.
The urge to survive. :yes:
Exposure to the power inherent in waves(even 6 foot and less) gives us pause.Surfing involves three unavoidable elements;Exertion.The Ride.The beating.
The beating can be punishing in average sized waves.The beating in big waves grows exponentially and also usually entails multi-wave hold-downs.Undoubtedly a life threatening situation.I have found myself at the point of complete and utter exhaustion(to the point of lingering on the absolute brink of passing-out)in big waves at the Left break in the photos,and count myself lucky to have survived that session.
Surfing is a pastime where one can quickly find oneself outside of one's ability to deal with a situation which is turning potentially deadly.Situations where having put one's self into the situation,one finds themselves in a situation that one's wishes that they weren't in.That is not a good place in which to be.
Caution and consideration are better exercised before paddling-out,rather than regret and potentially panic, later.
The urge to survive. :yes:
Exposure to the power inherent in waves(even 6 foot and less) gives us pause.Surfing involves three unavoidable elements;Exertion.The Ride.The beating.
The beating can be punishing in average sized waves.The beating in big waves grows exponentially and also usually entails multi-wave hold-downs.Undoubtedly a life threatening situation.I have found myself at the point of complete and utter exhaustion(to the point of lingering on the absolute brink of passing-out)in big waves at the Left break in the photos,and count myself lucky to have survived that session.
Surfing is a pastime where one can quickly find oneself outside of one's ability to deal with a situation which is turning potentially deadly.Situations where having put one's self into the situation,one finds themselves in a situation that one's wishes that they weren't in.That is not a good place in which to be.
Caution and consideration are better exercised before paddling-out,rather than regret and potentially panic, later.
mfrench
Addicted Member
I got helicoptered away from a reef break after hitting it when it sucked dry. The cliffs in PV didn't allow for them to land, so they lowered a cable down with a basket, and hauled me up from way up high.
I had broken ribs, and a dislocated hip which kept me from climbing back up the cliffs, and required me to paddle about a half mile to a point where they could lift me out. I don't remember getting out of the water. My first recollection (I was in shock) was of an old man surfing a reef in the the PV cove that saw me paddling into the cove. He saw me, and I guess spoke to me, and realized I was in trouble. I got to the shore break, and I guess I just got washed onto the shore. I don't remember what happened. He said that he'd dragged me up away from the waves, and called for paramedics. My wetsuit was all torn up, and my rib cage area was all bloodied and full of urchin spines. My folks got the call that I was being airlifted to the emergency room, but they wouldn't say why. So they dropped everything and ran. I caught allot of flack from them for that little episode, because they didn't like me surfing around all of those rocks.
This all happened because I was cut-off by somebody that didn't give the right of way, and did a cutback right in front of me, causing me to straighten out into and onto the reef. The waves were only about head height that day, but packed a wallop.
I had broken ribs, and a dislocated hip which kept me from climbing back up the cliffs, and required me to paddle about a half mile to a point where they could lift me out. I don't remember getting out of the water. My first recollection (I was in shock) was of an old man surfing a reef in the the PV cove that saw me paddling into the cove. He saw me, and I guess spoke to me, and realized I was in trouble. I got to the shore break, and I guess I just got washed onto the shore. I don't remember what happened. He said that he'd dragged me up away from the waves, and called for paramedics. My wetsuit was all torn up, and my rib cage area was all bloodied and full of urchin spines. My folks got the call that I was being airlifted to the emergency room, but they wouldn't say why. So they dropped everything and ran. I caught allot of flack from them for that little episode, because they didn't like me surfing around all of those rocks.
This all happened because I was cut-off by somebody that didn't give the right of way, and did a cutback right in front of me, causing me to straighten out into and onto the reef. The waves were only about head height that day, but packed a wallop.