Which treatment (Restore-A-Finish or Feed N Wax) for this veneer?

[tubed]

If I wanted a set of speakers to look nice with a "new" finish I'd use Strip-eze type product to remove the top finish, lightly sand the veneer then apply the Watco stain.
Watco(and Howards) does have solvents in it and does have the ability to "lift" the original color, however, I've never minded the resulting hue.

 

[4-2-7]

Thank you 4-2-7. I have been sitting gritting my teeth and biting my tongue. My suggestion would be to just continue the feed and wax. Not all finishes were meant to be super shiny

I wonder why everyone thinks when the word "Poly" is used they think Shiny plastic?

 

[Phase700b]

Wood is wood and a finish is a finish. Damage can occur even if I clad it in copper.

Waxes and oil type top coats are the weakest around. They seal from air but moisture will enter. They dry out rapidly from heat and sun as well.

Not to mention Watco is just a pain in the ass to use.

Again, I have to respectfully disagree. If you used Watco in the past, then you are fully aware that especially the first coat and many times the second soaks into the wood like a sponge. It is definitely not a "top coat" like a varnish or poly coating.

And I do not find it difficult to work with at all. Quite the opposite. And.. it is very easy to maintain, can be touched up easily. A varnish or poly finish is not easily touched up if the surface gets scratched or damaged. It requites removal since it is only a top coat sitting on the surface of the wood.

Watco is both an oil and a resin . . .. both of which are present in most natural woods.


Hmm. . poly comes in satin, semi-gloss, gloss finishes. But is still just a top coat sitting on the surface.

Here are my Wharfedale XP2s in teak with the satin, oil finish. Not shinny, original type oil finish. Sheen can be obtained buy additional coats, or a top coat if desired. But Watco soaks into and restores oils and resins natural to wood.

I underscore TEAK, because they have an more orange look than the rich chocolate brown of American Walnut like my Advents and older Wharfedales.



Wharfedale XP2 in Teak. . . not Walnut

 

[4-2-7]

 

[4-2-7]

 

[4-2-7]

 

[Gang-Twanger]

Then, there's that. I'm running in to issues with selling the Altecs I completely restored. Not having the original finish, even if it's not up to snuff, is a real detriment for buyers. I'd rather have the existing finish too, it tells the story of the ages.

xo, Biggles

Yeah, I have to say, I've thought about that when looking at a few refinished pairs of Wharfedales online. Depends on what the person is looking for, and I happen to like an aged tone, even if it's well-maintained/refurbished.

 

[4-2-7]

Again, I have to respectfully disagree. If you used Watco in the past, then you are fully aware that especially the first coat and many times the second soaks into the wood like a sponge. It is definitely not a "top coat" like a varnish or poly coating.

And I do not find it difficult to work with at all. Quite the opposite. And.. it is very easy to maintain, can be touched easily. A varnish or poly finish is not easily touched up if the surface gets scratched or damaged. It requites removal since it is only a top coat sitting on the surface of the wood.

Watco is both an oil and a resin . . .. both of which are present in most natural woods.


Hmm. . poly comes in satin, semi-gloss, gloss finishes. But is still just a top coat sitting on the surface.

You are really showing ignorance with your statements. At least with the ones that know what they're doing.

I really don't have time to teach you the errors with in all your comment.

 

[4-2-7]

Yeah, I have to say, I've thought about that when looking at a few refinished pairs of Wharfedales online. Depends on what the person is looking for, and I happen to like an aged tone, even if it's well-maintained/refurbished.

And i'm sure they did them like all the wannabe comment in this thread.

Anyway I got to go If you would like some advice you know were to reach me.

Good Luck, Make them beautiful:thmbsp:

 

[tomlinmgt]

Yep, that's the look I want. I used Watco on the birch stepped diffusers I built (the center diffuser modules in the picture. Granted, it was pretty quick and easy, but I have very little confidence it's the type of finish that will last several decades and undergo little to no change in appearance.

 

[Phase700b]

Yep, that's the look I want. I used Watco on the birch stepped diffusers I built (the center diffuser modules in the picture. Granted, it was pretty quick and easy, but I have very little confidence it's the type of finish that will last several decades and undergo little to no change in appearance.

Well, all I can say is that the oak fireplace mantle I made is still in use and finished with Watco in 1979. And it has suffered candle wax, oil lamp spills, and Xmas decoration tape, etc.


If you want a shinny , new top coat finsih that is fine also. But if you want the original patina that aged wood possesses and as close to the oiled finish the speaker maker used to begins with. . .. . then you should use and oil finish to restore it.

Many speakers were finished using lacquer also after staining. Now lacquer is seldom used because of volatile fumes and pollution. Which is the MAIN reason water based poly finishes are now used because they are cheap and dry fast. That does not mean they are better. What else would a "pro" say? They aren't going to say they use them because they HAVE to or that they the Environmental Protection Agency says they have to. Of course they are going to say they are "better".

They are fast and cheap, and provide an appealing result to some. Are they better? Not close to orginal and a pain to touch up and maintain if scratched again.

 

[4-2-7]

Yep, that's the look I want. I used Watco on the birch stepped diffusers I built (the center diffuser modules in the picture. Granted, it was pretty quick and easy, but I have very little confidence it's the type of finish that will last several decades and undergo little to no change in appearance.

I started using this process on custom kitchen tables. The ones that cost $15,000-$20,000 and up 3" thick solid hardwoods, Mahogany, Walnut, Elm, Teak.

The owners of tables like this treat them worse than you or I would treat our own cheap kitchen table. No finish would survive the hot pots, water, alcohol, dropping things kids playing on them you name it.

Then they would send back the 700 lb table and say the finish is failing, lol. This does not happen anymore, and even if a bad scratch needs fixing it can easily be done on site touch-up and recoat.

 

[tubed]

What I loved about the old JBLs like the L250 was the hand rubbed oil veneered cabinets.
Leaving them without a lacquered or varnished top coat made them relatively easy to restore the finish.

 

[Phase700b]

Then, there's that. I'm running in to issues with selling the Altecs I completely restored. Not having the original finish, even if it's not up to snuff, is a real detriment for buyers. I'd rather have the existing finish too, it tells the story of the ages.

xo, Biggles

Exactly. If the speakers were an original, satin type oil finish. .. the LAST thing you want is a shinny, "poly" finish on them. Poly sits on top of the wood like a varnish or lacquer.

Watco is both an oil and a resin. .. natural elements in wood.

Nothing wrong if a person like a shinny finish like a car paint job. But it won't be original

 

[4-2-7]

Yep, that's the look I want. I used Watco on the birch stepped diffusers I built (the center diffuser modules in the picture. Granted, it was pretty quick and easy, but I have very little confidence it's the type of finish that will last several decades and undergo little to no change in appearance.

Ya not knocking your work but it looks like raw wood wet with oil. No life at all doing that process.

That birch will pop with life when you put a real finish on them guaranteed. I also like the design you have going. I really need to do a bit of sound treatment.

 

[Phase700b]

What I loved about the old JBLs like the L250 was the hand rubbed oil veneered cabinets.
Leaving them without a lacquered or varnished top coat made them relatively easy to restore the finish.

Exactly. If the original finish was oil. .. restore it with an oil/resin finish that soaks into and restores the actual wood. Not sit on the surface to be scratched and a pain to sand off.

 

[Phase700b]

You are really showing ignorance with your statements. At least with the ones that know what they're doing.

I really don't have time to teach you the errors with in all your comment.

You know. . . . there is no reason for personal attacks. It is just a difference of what is original. .. and what isn't.

If a person wants a different stain color and a shinny surface like a car paint job on their vintage speakers. . . that is their choice.

But if you actually read some of the other comments, you will then get an idea of what is being said here.

If the original finish was oil . . . then it should be restored with an oil finish if a person desires as close to original as possible. Plus, an oil finish soaks into and rejuvenates the wood with oils and resins and actually strengthens the wood fibers once cured. Unlike a top coat poly finish which just seals the surface.

And, I am not ignorant of the finishes you mention. I just do not agree with nor believe in all of the marketing jargon that is used to sell some of these new products that lack some important qualities in lieu of fast application and environmental concerns in commercial use where speed is of essence rather than original quality.

Your JBLs do look nice BTW. Just not like original and that does matter with vintage speakers. The same is true of a paint job or engine parts in a car which I am sure you understand.

 

[drbiggles]

Hmmm, well if nothing else speaker junkies are passionate!

xo, Biggles

 

[Zonker92]

My L250s had a poly finish (done by a prior owner no doubt) that looked just like those photos. Very nice, but the lack of originality always slightly bugged me.

 

[Phase700b]

Hmmm, well if nothing else speaker junkies are passionate!

xo, Biggles

Yeah, I guess we are. :yes:

But the 427 guy doesn't seem to want to accept that some people want the original oil type finish and not something else.

Others have said as much here in their comments. . . but 427 isn't hearing it.

I even told him in a post that his speakers look nice. But shinny and a different shade is not original.
If someone wants that. .. ok. But it's not like the original oil finish.

I own speakers for the 70's to 90's and the finishes are from natural oiled walnut and teak to black ash. I obviously would not advocate using Watco on a Black Ash finished B&W speaker. Likewise, I would not use a black paint/stain on a vintage Wharfedale form 1970 or earlier.