Will adding Marble tops improve speaker performance?
- Thread starter hjames
- Start date
WaynerN
Addicted Member
Old vintage Empire speakers came with marble tops. I think it served 2 functions, one being a giant coaster to prevent stains, as the design definitely invited the use as end tables, and secondly (as you are attempting) to mass load the speakers. I have the Empire Cavalier 2000, minus the marble tops. These are the speakers to play pipe organ music with, as they do go really low (and powerful).
These (pictured above) are the Empire 9000 series with marble top.
I'd source a local countertop maker. I have one in the next town that made me a TT base for not too much.
These (pictured above) are the Empire 9000 series with marble top.
I'd source a local countertop maker. I have one in the next town that made me a TT base for not too much.
Does this look like the product you are using?
https://www.amazon.com/EPPCO-Enterprises-1864-Tool-Liner/dp/B000VHXEJ6
Sounds about right, slightly clingy but not sticky and not a rubber product!
https://www.amazon.com/EPPCO-Enterprises-1864-Tool-Liner/dp/B000VHXEJ6
Sounds about right, slightly clingy but not sticky and not a rubber product!
I’d experiment with Dynamat, foil side down, plywood and milk jugs filled with sand at the approximate weight of the stone. The Dynamat provides constrained layer damping and protects the speaker finish. If that works get the stone and stick the Dynamat to it.
I did consider taping the bottom of the stone with Gorilla Tape -
its double thick and quite sticky (and I already have an unused roll!) ...
Well, the drawer liner product is $12 for 18 x 72 ...
and I just need 18 x 48 (2x 18x24) - cheap enough to give it a try. It should arrive Sunday!
Dynamat (brand) is MUCH more expensive
its double thick and quite sticky (and I already have an unused roll!) ...
Well, the drawer liner product is $12 for 18 x 72 ...
and I just need 18 x 48 (2x 18x24) - cheap enough to give it a try. It should arrive Sunday!
Dynamat (brand) is MUCH more expensive
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Ohighway
Wannabe Minimalist
Yeah that looks similar......maybe even the exact same product I used. I was trying to look a couple years back in my records but couldn't find the order. I do remember it being a fairly long roll.
bhunter
The Spherical Cow
After reading an in depth discussion over at The Garage Journal, I went with the Harbor Freight product for my relined roll-away cabinets. That was several years ago and it's holding up well. If you're placing it between two relatively flat surfaces, then I doubt you'll have problems with it harming the finish. I'd just check it periodically. I use the stuff all over the house to keep things in place. I would not use anything with adhesives, like Gorilla tape, between the surfaces.
Dunno if it'll work, but maybe shelf liner or toolbox drawer liner? I've used the solid toolbox drawer liner from Harbor Freight not only to (obviously) line the drawers of my roll cabs and the insides of my toolboxes, but it's just handy stuff to have around. Pretty sure the gaskets in my KLH Twenty Fours are made of the stuff too
bhunter
The Spherical Cow
Dunno if it'll work, but maybe shelf liner or toolbox drawer liner? I've used the solid toolbox drawer liner from Harbor Freight not only to (obviously) line the drawers of my roll cabs and the insides of my toolboxes, but it's just handy stuff to have around. Pretty sure the gaskets in my KLH Twenty Fours are made of the stuff too
Yep, I too have found all kinds of uses for the stuff. I've tried others, but I like the HF product the best.
I needed to line a box last week and never found the time to stop at HF due to life craziness (I live two blocks from one, but I haven't actually been home all week), the Orange Colored Store had a very similar product that I liked just as much. It feels a little heavier and stiffer, not sure which I actually like better. Was harder to cut though as it had some fibers in it. Was a little more expensive but not too bad, I think about $10. Probably would have worked better if I hadn't been in a hurry and had found some razor blades instead of just using my pocketknife, but it turned out beautiful.
Retrovert
Addicted Member
Are the sides of the speaker sufficiently strong to support that weight without sagging over time?
The cabinet material greatly matters.
MDF is notorious for sagging under pressure. I can't tell you how many 1/2 inch MDF shop shelves or bookshelves I'd had which sagged under modest loads. The books weren't that heavy, either. It was the unsupported span, just as the sides in a cabinet are an unsupported span. I've also had thinner plywood sag. The shelves I built for a pantry are all 3/4 inch plywood, and no sagging under heavy bottles, but the span is not that great, about 26 inches.
If the top or sides fail it could be disastrous for the drivers, particularly if it fails such that the baffle buckles.
The cabinet material greatly matters.
MDF is notorious for sagging under pressure. I can't tell you how many 1/2 inch MDF shop shelves or bookshelves I'd had which sagged under modest loads. The books weren't that heavy, either. It was the unsupported span, just as the sides in a cabinet are an unsupported span. I've also had thinner plywood sag. The shelves I built for a pantry are all 3/4 inch plywood, and no sagging under heavy bottles, but the span is not that great, about 26 inches.
If the top or sides fail it could be disastrous for the drivers, particularly if it fails such that the baffle buckles.
Getting to your last paragraph, can’t you purchase small disc’s that sit under your spikes? It’s a 2-3 person job I guess to get them positioned correctly without damaging your hardwood floors, but don’t rule out spikes.
I've used these in the past, but they are not large enough for your speakers. It's possible someone makes larger ones already cut to your size. I use self adhering 1" diameter felt pads under the slabs to avoid scratching or vibration.
https://www.kitchencollection.com/kitchen-collection-marble-pastry-board-20511-white
Here is a 24 x 16 slab for $50. There are others online that are 12 x 18. You could use two of those together to equal 24 x 18.
https://www.crateandbarrel.com/french-kitchen-marble-pastry-slab/s285048
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Many granite cutters have scrap pieces left over from installs you might pick up cheap, but keep in mind these slabs are only polished on one side so the bottom will be rough and uneven, you will need something soft and sort of thick to fill in the spaces or it could rock a bit (pun intended).
JoeESP9
ESL's & tubes since 83
For those who have an irrational fear of anything "nu-q-ler" (nuclear) read the quote below. Frankly I've always been more concerned that so many with the responsibility of controlling nuclear weapons can't pronounce the word correctly.
Both granite and marble are naturally occurring materials that were formed millions of years ago similar to minerals. Generally these substances contain traces of radioactive elements like uranium, thorium and their daughter products like radium polonium and radon. Aug 23, 2015
Both granite and marble are naturally occurring materials that were formed millions of years ago similar to minerals. Generally these substances contain traces of radioactive elements like uranium, thorium and their daughter products like radium polonium and radon. Aug 23, 2015
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smoke-libr8r
Active Member
The DLK 4 also had marble tops... http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?media/dlk-model-4-speakers-simulated-marble-top.4371/
I've always wondered if this improved the acoustics or just made it a better plant stand.
I go with plant standThe DLK 4 also had marble tops... http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?media/dlk-model-4-speakers-simulated-marble-top.4371/
I've always wondered if this improved the acoustics or just made it a better plant stand.