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yamaha c-4 preamp problem maybe waterdamage?

So you say you don't know how to read or follow a schematic.Because we need to troubleshoot the DC power supplys.When you press the on button-do you hear a very faint relay click a couple seconds after pressing the on button? Probably have to get your ear real close because they are reed relays and make more of a tiny "tick" sound rather than a loud "click".See photo for location.
 

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their is no noise after i press the power button, and everything looked the same after the arc, i think possibly the arc was going from the heatsink to the metal/alluminum rod that is for the REC OUT switch, i was looking at it from an upward angle, if not from there possibly that diode right next to it.. there really isnt much else nearby for it to arc to..

its plugged in, im hopeing it will kick on soon,, idk how long i should expect to wait though,, it usually happened for me after about 15minutes,, than it would work.. during that 15 minutes i was usually rechecking plugs, constantly turning it on, and off, not knowing what i did wrong..

oh, and what makes it slightly more difficult, all the lamps are burnt out, so its hard to tell when its on or off, i got used to the feel of the power button though, one click for on, two clicks for off..
 
oh and to get a good pic of the area, and also see the component attached to the heatsink, i'd need to remove alot more of the unit,, are you guys wanting me to do that? if so it might take me alittle while..

would it be best to continue this tomorrow? also that way i should be able to tell if it is going to kick on again.. because im not sure how long i should wait before calling it.. :scratch2:
 
While your taking it apart check the fuses under the transformer cover.You probably blew one when it arced.
 
alright! also i read somewhere while trying to find common computer monitor problems, that a fuze may not be blown, but might not work anyways? also once had a problem with one channel on my fisher ca-660 reciever and just had to twist a fuze for it to work, think possibly, it could of have been a fuze problem to begin with?
 
yea i poped the fuze closest to the transformer, the one on the blue wire,

guess i am going to start looking for a 250v 2a fuze..

does the noise i heard from the headphone jack when it arced, mean anything? or was i just messing with a sensitive part? should i take a good look at the component on that heatsink?
 
aaah, crap i think the closest thing i have is a fuze that says f4a250v so it's a 4amp?
maybe i have to pick this back up tomorrow.. :(
 
Weirder things have happened..Pull the fuses one at a time and check there continuity with your multimeter.If you find a bad one replace it with a new one of the same amperage rating.



PS --- don't wiggle that heatsink any more..
 
oh sweet nvm i found 1!!! but it lists it backwards, instead of saying, 250v2a it says 2a250v it doesent matter does it? should i put it in there? should i watch when i turn it on if i see it arc again?
 
does the noise i heard from the headphone jack when it arced, mean anything
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Yep..Its the sound a blown fuse makes..:D Not very musical is it...:D
 
lowest ohms range.. a good fuse should read less than 1 ohm..a bad one will read open or infinity or over-range
 
also what setting do i use to check continuity? when i used ohms they all read, .1
also these are hard as hell to get out! lol..
 
All the rest of the fuses read 0.1 ohm we will assume they are good. You have just made the continuity test.
 
if they read .1 then they are fine what you really need to do it voltage drop across the fuses to make sure they are flowing enough juice.
 
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