Yamaha C-6 adjusting/test points?
- Thread starter 252525
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clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Don't you have the service manual ??
E-mail Norman and tell him what you need.. I guarantee these are ultra high quality color pdf files
Analog Alley is my go-to for excellent service manuals.
http://www.analogalley.com/m_yamaha.htm
Analog Alley is my go-to for excellent service manuals.
http://www.analogalley.com/m_yamaha.htm
252525
New Member
Thanks for the link, Avionic!
I don't know if it's worth $14, for me, since it's a one off thing. I propably wouldn't have any use for the rest of the manual.
Yeah, I like the C-6. Had it for a couple of years now matched together with a M-4, although the M-4 gets used less often since my main speakers are active.
I just bought a C-4 that arrived with the left channel dead from every input/output. The seller didn't mention it, just that the volume pot had some crackle (which it didn't have). Well, maybe something happened during the shipment. No visible cracked solder joints and deoxit didn't help either, the 3 relays all clicked too. Anyways, I cleaned up all pots and switches, removed old dried up glue beneath the heatsinks and put new thermal paste on them as well. I replaced the female pin connectors on the switch board and the headphone board. I also reflowed the joints connecting the different boards. Don't know what was wrong but now it's up and running. I think it could be one of the 9 pin female connectors on the switch board, looked like there was a missing connection in one of the holes.
I did some digital recordings of C-6 and C-4, no EQ of course, to be able to easily A/B them. I then listened on good revealing headphones through a stand-alone headphone amp bypassing the preamp in the chain. On stripped records the C-4 has an edge, but it's not night and day. On more complex records with distorted guitars and more compression it's harder to tell them apart. Mind you that both preamps still have their original caps.
I guess a recap of both preamps is in my future pipeline. Does anyone know what caps in the C-6 are in the audio signal path? I'm too stupid to figure it out even if the service manual would give me clues
I don't know if it's worth $14, for me, since it's a one off thing. I propably wouldn't have any use for the rest of the manual.
Yeah, I like the C-6. Had it for a couple of years now matched together with a M-4, although the M-4 gets used less often since my main speakers are active.
I just bought a C-4 that arrived with the left channel dead from every input/output. The seller didn't mention it, just that the volume pot had some crackle (which it didn't have). Well, maybe something happened during the shipment. No visible cracked solder joints and deoxit didn't help either, the 3 relays all clicked too. Anyways, I cleaned up all pots and switches, removed old dried up glue beneath the heatsinks and put new thermal paste on them as well. I replaced the female pin connectors on the switch board and the headphone board. I also reflowed the joints connecting the different boards. Don't know what was wrong but now it's up and running. I think it could be one of the 9 pin female connectors on the switch board, looked like there was a missing connection in one of the holes.
I did some digital recordings of C-6 and C-4, no EQ of course, to be able to easily A/B them. I then listened on good revealing headphones through a stand-alone headphone amp bypassing the preamp in the chain. On stripped records the C-4 has an edge, but it's not night and day. On more complex records with distorted guitars and more compression it's harder to tell them apart. Mind you that both preamps still have their original caps.
I guess a recap of both preamps is in my future pipeline. Does anyone know what caps in the C-6 are in the audio signal path? I'm too stupid to figure it out even if the service manual would give me clues
252525
New Member
Comparing C-6 and C-4 there are two things I like more with the cheaper C-6. First, it runs a lot cooler. The second is the EQ. The C-6 has a wider range of selectable frequencies and also the ability to change the width of the bell (also known as Q). The C-4 only has a low and high shelf, instead of a bell. And the lowest setting on the low shelf starts way too high in my opinion at 100Hz. If anyone knows how to mod it down to 30-40Hz that would be great!
I have some standing bass waves in my room around 40Hz and the EQ on the C-6 has helped me tame down the issue.
I have some standing bass waves in my room around 40Hz and the EQ on the C-6 has helped me tame down the issue.
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