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Yamaha C-65 inquiry

Soundscape

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WTF are those plug caps for on the C-65 phono inputs? My C-80 doesn't have them but I bought that one 2nd hand. Does the C-80 need them? The caps look more like shunts.
As I go through the C-65, what are the common service points? Thanks Yamagents.
 
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Wondering where I can find these shorting plugs? The phono stages on these control amps are incredible and I don't want to compromise it. I guess I could redneck a shorting plug. Does the circuit run hotter without them?
 
Anywhere there is dried SONY glue.
I did find some Sonyshat glue under the heat sink mounted transistors in the center area of the board. Plus corroded resistors in front of it. What other weak spots could be here....poking around.
 
Wouldn't hurt anything to use them.

Those are shorting plugs..

Wondering where I can find these shorting plugs? The phono stages on these control amps are incredible and I don't want to compromise it. I guess I could redneck a shorting plug. Does the circuit run hotter without the shorting plugs ? ?
 
This will be a boring re-cap. 76 electrolytics on this hog. Tempted to just leave it alone after the DSBG repair. Sick of re-capping.
 
This will be a boring re-cap. 76 electrolytics on this hog. Tempted to just leave it alone after the DSBG repair. Sick of re-capping.
I’d measure those caps for capacitance and ESR before automatically changing them. Recently I got a semi-decent capacitance/ESR meter and went through a couple of hundred caps I’ve changed from different units. Turns out over 99% measure fine (both C and ESR) and could have been left alone.
 
went through a couple of hundred caps I’ve changed from different units
You keep all your old caps ? :D I kept my old Black gates & tossed the rest. I'm not re-capping this one. None of them are buldging or swelling. I'll take my chances this time. Ever had a piece not sound better after a re-cap though? I don't trust those smallest electrolytics beyond 25 years but, walking away from this one.

I don't have an ESR tester yet. Those test in ckt?

Certain aged parts behave funny under load so I often replace them without a 2nd thought.
 
You keep all your old caps ?
Yes, for a while anyway, in a tagged plastic bag to know where they came from.
Ever had a piece not sound better after a re-cap though?
LOL … yes. It didn’t sound worse but definitely sounded different which I didn’t like. This is a highly subjective area mind you.
Those test in ckt?
No, I remove the caps from circuit for testing. In some cases it can be done in circuit but I don’t take chances.

I always changed all the electrolytic caps by default, but then started measuring some of them with regular DMM with capacitor measurement function, they always (as in all the time) measured higher than the rated cap value printed on them. I was expecting lower values due to age. So, wondering if those removed caps were really bad or not, I got the tester. Over 99% measured slightly higher than the rated value and their ESRs were very similar to rather expensive brand new caps I put in. So go figure, I ain’t changing caps by default anymore, I do a sample test and go from there.

I think there’s much higher return in reflowing the solder joints and cleaning the physical parts … switches, volumes, selectors, etc.. Oh, and I absolutely leave the resistors alone unless there’s a very good reason. They don’t change value over time.
 
I ain’t changing caps by default anymore, I do a sample test and go from there.
Yes, I've been a re-capping whore since the covid era. I'm starting to think the medium,large, & XL caps are better left alone on our Yamagoodies. I'm experimenting on this piece. I believe the smallest electrolytic caps need swapping after 25 years. Here's my analogy in lieu of electrolyte dry out. Let's say ya soak 5 sheets of paper towel in water, and then dunk the whole remaining paper towel roll in water. Set them both outside in the sun & see which dries out first. I don't trust teenie weenie caps in vintage pieces, those little pricks often fail under load no matter how good they test.
This is my knowledge share and not a pissing match, as I enjoy your feedback. Peace out Sparky.:thumbsup:
 
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Yes, I've been a re-capping whore since the covid era. I'm starting to think the medium,large, & XL caps are better left alone on our Yamagoodies. I'm experimenting on this piece. I believe the smallest electrolytic caps need swapping after 25 years. Here's my analogy in lieu of electrolyte dry out. Let's say ya soak 5 sheets of paper towel in water, and then dunk the whole remaining paper towel roll in water. Set them both outside in the sun & see which dries out first. I don't trust teenie weenie caps in vintage pieces, those little pricks often fail under load no matter how good they test.
This is my knowledge share and not a pissing match, as I enjoy your feedback. Peace out Sparky.:thumbsup:
Yeah, I agree that the really large PSU caps are a hard decision. So far I have not found any out of spec, and they are expensive and usually challenging to find the same physical sized caps. If you can't find the same physical size then it gets quite involved to drill or make accomodations for the different sized caps.
 
Yes, for a while anyway, in a tagged plastic bag to know where they came from.
LOL … yes. It didn’t sound worse but definitely sounded different which I didn’t like. This is a highly subjective area mind you.

No, I remove the caps from circuit for testing. In some cases it can be done in circuit but I don’t take chances.

I always changed all the electrolytic caps by default, but then started measuring some of them with regular DMM with capacitor measurement function, they always (as in all the time) measured higher than the rated cap value printed on them. I was expecting lower values due to age. So, wondering if those removed caps were really bad or not, I got the tester. Over 99% measured slightly higher than the rated value and their ESRs were very similar to rather expensive brand new caps I put in. So go figure, I ain’t changing caps by default anymore, I do a sample test and go from there.

I think there’s much higher return in reflowing the solder joints and cleaning the physical parts … switches, volumes, selectors, etc.. Oh, and I absolutely leave the resistors alone unless there’s a very good reason. They don’t change value over time.
That's interesting to pull caps, test and reinstall. I feel like since I have taken the time to desolder, I might as well install new. I do like the idea of getting into the unit and doing all of the caps and any known issues, service bulletins etc. So then it can be done and good for another 30-40 years. Especially if I am going to sell it to someone. Maybe in the future if we can no longer get the caps we need we may have to do be more selective.
 
That's interesting to pull caps, test and reinstall

I swap caps & diodes like underwear. F it. Seems to be the weakest parts of my pieces and cause haunting problems & over think if I don't replace them. Those power supply caps can be tough to find in the "audio grade" arena. I just measure the lead spacing on those and see what's available in audio grade & then seek general purpose with the best ripple current ratings from there.
 
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That's interesting to pull caps, test and reinstall. I feel like since I have taken the time to desolder, I might as well install new. I do like the idea of getting into the unit and doing all of the caps and any known issues, service bulletins etc. So then it can be done and good for another 30-40 years. Especially if I am going to sell it to someone. Maybe in the future if we can no longer get the caps we need we may have to do be more selective.
Not sure what you mean by interesting, it’s called following the data. If the caps measure fine in value and ESR, they go right back in. I have other things to spend my money on. The capacitance meter has been a, quoting yourself, a game changer for me. LOL
 
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