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Yamaha CR-1020 idling current not adjusting

Both are ok, other possibilities also, I'd lean towards the 1N5232B since it matches the typical 5.6V
 
Thanks Mbz.
R627 and R628 (IP 47?) can you recommend a replacement - preferably stocked by Mouser?

I'll also get the following transistor replacements in case they're required. Looking good?
TR609 - 2SC734 - KSC23830
TR610 - 2SA561 - KSA733C
TR611 - 2SC1212B - KSC2690
TR612 - 2SA743B - KSA1220A
 
Hifibythekg said:
Thanks Mbz.
R627 and R628 (IP 47?) can you recommend a replacement - preferably stocked by Mouser?

I'll also get the following transistor replacements in case they're required. Looking good?
TR609 - 2SC734 - KSC23830
TR610 - 2SA561 - KSA733C
TR611 - 2SC1212B - KSC2690
TR612 - 2SA743B - KSA1220A
Click to expand...
Looking at Mouser nothing comes up with KSC2830
 
2SC1918 - KSC1815YTA, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=ljbEvF4DwOP9FJQWOCoFLQ==
2SA8444 - ?????? 2SA844 can be replaced by KSA916YTA, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...irchild/KSA916YTA?qs=ljbEvF4DwOO7GM1/uCxeuQ==
2SC1213C - KSC1008CYTA, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=ljbEvF4DwOPl4CVFKpymXQ==
2SC1628 - KSC3503DS, https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=K0aVCp/7QwZFJOGYBADtRQ==

No subs are always a perfect match, but these should all work. Always check the datasheets yourself, and pay particular attention to device pinouts - they sometimes will vary
 
My Yamaha CR-1020 started making a popping sound in the Lt channel, as soon as I turned the power switch on.
I removed the cover and started checking the idling current voltages. Sure enough the Lt channel was way out of spec.
Let it warm up for 5 minutes, checked them again. They had drifted only a couple millivolts. Set both channels to 10mv.
Problem solved.
Thank you all for providing the procedure. It was very easy to follow.
 
TnSquatch said:
My Yamaha CR-1020 started making a popping sound in the Lt channel, as soon as I turned the power switch on.
I removed the cover and started checking the idling current voltages. Sure enough the Lt channel was way out of spec.
Let it warm up for 5 minutes, checked them again. They had drifted only a couple millivolts. Set both channels to 10mv.
Problem solved.
Thank you all for providing the procedure. It was very easy to follow.
Click to expand...
I don't think 10mv is the correct setting. I believe it to be 25mv on Class B operation.
 
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