Yamaha CR-1020 Receiver Resto

[vitalsigns65]

Is this one a C-458?

 

[vitalsigns65]

Forget that last question, Dave.

I just looked for myself, and yep, it's the #8!

 

[vitalsigns65]

So if the flat gets pressed against the heatsink then what?

 

[brutal]

That does not look like a flat (outhouse) SC458.

Now I have to go look at a CR-1020 main amp board to see what's on there.

 

[brutal]

Well, interestingly enough, there is one sh*thouse SC458 on one and one newer roundhouse SC458 on the other. It was mounted as yours appears, the round side to the heatsink, with plenty of thermal paste so I don't think it matters nought that the flat side makes contact. These were CR-1020 spare boards I had sitting, I haven't looked into the CR-1020 or CR-2020 buttoned up in the racks.

 

[4seatPilot]

resurrecting a slightly old thread... this one will no doubt help several others, including me with their 1020 or 2020! I have 2 of the former, one of the latter... one of my 1020s is working, but not well (distortion even at low levels), so I plan to start a list of parts to replace on it... for now I have my hands full with some smaller units. Better to learn on the little guys, should make the big ones easier. And +1 for avionic, brutal and merrylander... I've received invaluable help from Rob via PM for my 600 - planning to condense the info into a useful document and post to it's own thread for others to reference... once I complete the repair anyway!

 

[merrylander]

Should I re-cap the tone board? It's a long board and looks like a pita to work on.

However, I see a lot of old caps on it.

Should I bother?

Apart from just two caps all of the caps on the tone board are on the five daughter boards. The simplest way to re-cap the tone board is to de-solder the daughter cards one at a time and re-cap them. To remove the whole tone board practically involves a tear down of the front of the unit.