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Yamaha M-5000

And the standard that the vintage amps that many of us know and love was usually to pick the point to call the maximum power before or right at the nearly 90 degree turn as the amp starts clipping, not after it like they seem to do today. So, to me that is not enough power from a statement amp from Yamaha. If I am wrong about this change in how power is measured I am happy to learn and change my opinion accordingly.

The problem is there isn't a universal rating method. Mfg are free to pick the point on the curve, so to speak, at which they provide the ratings.

If it were my call, mfg. would still be free to provide whatever "pretty" numbers they like, but every mfg would have to provide power at 1% THD at a stated response point and stated load as a universal common point. Once an amp is at 1% THD, it's pretty much "all in" from a high-fidelity useful output standpoint. No more useful power "sandbagging", so to speak.
 
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The problem is there isn't a universal rating method. Mfg are free to pick the point on the curve, so to speak, at which they provide the ratings.
Unfortunately more so these days than in the past.
If it were my call, mfg. would still be free to provide whatever "pretty" numbers they like, but every mfg would have to provide power at 1% THD at a stated response point and stated load as a universal common point. Once an amp is at 1% THD, it's pretty much "all in" from a high-fidelity useful output standpoint. No more useful power "sandbagging", so to speak.
Yes indeed!
 
All I can tell you is that on these Focal monsters, the bass was much better (more weight, deeper and more controlled) with the A-S3000 than with the MX-1, despite the lower nominal power output...

Just to make sure, when using the MX-1 did you have the level input controls on the back turned to Max (10)? I have met some folks that thought the mid-point (5) was normal, but in reality 10 is normal for rated MX-1 output. I presume the A-S3000 bass and treble controls were set to null for the comparison. Personally, I think I would probably like the sound of a high quality Yamaha bass & treble boosted integrated amp over a Yamaha power amp rated at twice the wattage (I know, heresy), which is why I like a Yamaha preamp ahead of my MX-1.
 
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Yeah, I agree. For 10K I'm going to need more than 100W. If I'm spending 10k on a power amp, the speakers are going to be 1.5x more at least and I doubt that 100W is going to be enough... I'd rather have a modern Class D with 200-300W. Spend the extra money on a DSP to equalize the room...

If only I had 10k to spend I would buy these Luxman C-7i plus B-10 power amplifiers. In addition, I will insert into the basket a B-3 V-FET power amp. Sorry, YAMAHA, you got way to greedy this time with your M-5000...
 
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I remember reading somewhere, about how now manufacturers are not held to the same power measurement standards as they were when our vintage gear was made . It's far easier now to make a claim for power that is short term 10-15 minutes. After a modern day amp been running at one-third its power rating for say an hour? Heck 30 min.
 
Ok, here we go. " Measured pursuant to Federal Trade Commission's Trade Regulation rule on Power Output Claims for Amplifier." I found this statement on page 3 of a Pioneer A-27 service manuals specification listing .From what i understand they were really strict about power claims from the early 70s to about the early 90s.
 
The 1/3 rated power test is held in great admiration by many, but that is roughly equivalent to playing music through the amp at a level with heavy clipping. That's not how amps are used.

A more practical test is 1/8 continuous rated power with pink noise. That roughly approximates music playback at a level high enough to produce occasional clipping. That is much more in line with how an amp is actually used when pushed hard playing music.
 
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