Brad1234
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I really contemplated the braid idea but could not find a reputable source on the braid.
Yamaha M-60 amp restoration planning
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Solder wick from mouser or wherever. It can be purchased in and assortment of various widths.
Digikey has a better selection.
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I had a thought about this, but disclaimer...I haven't tried it yet. What if a guy temporarily soldered some solder wick OR some 24 gauge wire to the 16 gauge wire in 6 inch strips. Just for fishing the 16 gauge wire through the holes. Then remove the strips.
Brad1234
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That would totally work! But with the 14 gauge wire I used with tinned tips it was really easy to fish wires thru the holes on boards. If you remove front bracket for first 2 caps and just slide thru the back 2 caps first, seat them on the board, and tighten clamp screws, then do same with front 2 caps you can easily see and position the cap leads to line up with board holes, using a screwdiver to push leads around as feeding them thru. The 14 gage wire twist provides support for cap seated on board, then just clip, fold over wire and solder to board. The only thing is if soldering with amp upside down some solder on cap posts and other wire connections may ooze down by gravity. There is a lot of tolerance to prevent solder bridges + to -, but something to be aware of.I had a thought about this, but disclaimer...I haven't tried it yet. What if a guy temporarily soldered some solder wick OR some 24 gauge wire to the 16 gauge wire in 6 inch strips. Just for fishing the 16 gauge wire through the holes. Then remove the strips.
Brad1234
Active Member
I mostly finished up my restore, replaced around 40 diodes, what a pain. The pic of lead wires is of just the 20 or so 1N4148 small signal diodes, after replacing them the clarity of the amp improved a lot!!! I left the 8 (1S1885) diodes in, they are 1A, 400-600 volt I believe. I bought 1N4004’s to replace them and may still go do that to finish up all of the diodes, unless there is any advice against wasting the time?
Now I need to get a good 40-50 hrs of break in on it with all new electrolytics and diodes. Any advice on how much to play it in Class A mode? I am doing some preamp swapping and comparing now for the sound. Pics for fun. It was so nice of Yamaha to face almost all diodes the same direction!!!
Now I need to get a good 40-50 hrs of break in on it with all new electrolytics and diodes. Any advice on how much to play it in Class A mode? I am doing some preamp swapping and comparing now for the sound. Pics for fun. It was so nice of Yamaha to face almost all diodes the same direction!!!
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Brad1234
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You mean like hook it to the AR-9’s? Scared it will blow up. I have the DH-500 on the AR-9’s since it can hit hard dips around 2-3 ohms.Glad to see we're making music vice smoke poofs...Looks good man.
Only diode problems I've had are the 6V Zeners you already replaced.
45 minutes at medium to high volumes. For me, the piece ran hotter at low volumes in class A. Run it hard IMO.
Brad1234
Active Member
The Hafler DH-500 is my second favorite amp. I fully rebuilt it with the Fantasia mods and it has a very warm and mellow sound with the mosfet outputs. Just close to 300 watts/channel. I do a lot of vintage stereo rebuilding but this is my first Yamaha.
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Brad1234
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Which area of the Sansui? You mean in the 7000? Im kind of confused.