I do a lot of burning, clearing parts of my 32 acres all summer, every summer. Diesel is what you use, not gas. And this is an excellent GIF that shows why.
I do a lot of burning, clearing parts of my 32 acres all summer, every summer. Diesel is what you use, not gas. And this is an excellent GIF that shows why.![]()
I don't grill so I really have not priced that stuff. Is it cheaper than $3 a gallon? I use about ten gallons every summer.Or "inexpensive store branded" charcoal grill type starting fluid which works very well for me for yrs when needed.
I have a gas grill so I wait for the lighter fluid to go on sale, which for burning brush clippings is the only reason for me to purchase & keep in stock around here.
No risk of ground hugging highly combustionable fumes igniting.
I don't grill so I really have not priced that stuff. Is it cheaper than $3 a gallon? I use about ten gallons every summer.
Somewhat related: I bought a stand-up air compressor at Harbor Freight about six years ago and have always had it in my shed, that is powered by a 100 foot extension cord from our back porch outlet. The wire is as thick as you can get for an extension cord (12 ga 15 amp). However, I thought the compressor sucked because it often had a hard time getting up to speed and would throw its internal circuit breaker.Beware of applying transmission line research to speaker cables. This is a persistent mistake I see, for the simple reason that ALL signal effects of importance in long distance transmission of signal become negligible at the normal length of speaker wires. Huge difference between sending a signal, audio or not, over 50 mile compared to 10 feet. Keep your cables straight, as short as possible, and use adequate diameter wire you will be fine.
The physical connection between wire and amp/speaker is very likely to have more influence on the signal than the material of the cable itself, including any connectors on the ends. The more surface area in the contact the better, and an inert coating of very high conductivity on the wire ends at the connectors will make a very large part of the "different cable sound" go away I suspect. Bare ends in screw posts should be tinned, spring clips should be avoided for best connection, and banana plugs need to be securely soldered on, not crimped. Crimps have low contact area and allow oxide formation, and oxides, depending on their composition, act as resistors, capacitors, or diodes, none of which belong in the signal path from amp to speaker.
Monster Cable was originally high grade 12 gauge stranded copper wire at a time when speaker wires were 22 gauge, or 18 if you were lucky. Works fine for a 10 watt amp driving efficient speaker six feet away maybe, but once you start pushing real power down the wires to large speakers, you need more copper cross section.
The reference standard for a long time was solid core 14 gauge Romex cable by the way -- solid core is better for conduction and limited capacitance, but Romex is rather un-handy being VERY stiff and intended for permanent installation. Heavy, too.
Beware of applying transmission line research to speaker cables. This is a persistent mistake I see, for the simple reason that ALL signal effects of importance in long distance transmission of signal become negligible at the normal length of speaker wires...
The physical connection between wire and amp/speaker is very likely to have more influence on the signal than the material of the cable itself..... Heavy, too.
Pretty much. Ten foot or so of 12 ga copper wire has nearly unmeasureably low capacitance, resistance, impedance, or inductance if it's not coiled up somewhere. Not much of anything to cause changes in what acts like DC current (audio signals). Many expensive custom cables have significant capacitance from all the insulated surface area. I don't see that as an improvement.
Low voltage, low amperage, low frequency, not much interaction between signal and cable.
Skin conduction is only an issue at radio frequencies (mega-Hertz, not low kilo-Hertz). No significant voltage effects either, very few pieces of audio equipment run higher than 100V peaks on the output (household current level, no fancy cables there either).
Sure if you try to drive large, low impedance speakers with a big amp and 100 ft of 22 gauge aluminum wire wadded up behind the amp you are going to be disappointed, but so long as the wire has enough cross section to avoid excessive signal loss due to resistance, the wire is essentially transparent.
Hearing is, like all other human senses, very highly processed in the brain, and I suppose some people can "hear" differences in cables that cannot be measured by very very sensitive equipment, but I certainly do not. I've not seen the results of a real double blind study where correctly choosing cables was higher than random chance either.
Probably far more important to match the output and speaker impedance and have low resistance/capacitance/impedance connections.
Keep your cables as short as possible, with straight runs, keep electronic noise broadcasters away from them (or shield each side) and don't worry about it. If you are really obsessed with sound quality, solder the connection to amp and speakers.