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Yet another Marantz 2325 restoration thread

goldswimmerb

goldswimmerb

Failed out of engineering, but look at me now!
Subscriber
Hey guys, so this will likely be my first big restoration so I figured I'd document it here and use some of your advice as well. I've done work on smaller receivers before, but nothing as big as this 2325. Got it for a steal online, it currently works for the most part but all the components are original so I'd like to get it back up to snuff.
Unfortunately the guy shipping it didn't pack it well at all (See pics). Any Advice from you guys here?
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I'm going to start with the Power Supply board and work from there. I'll try to add pictures as I go. I'm really excited about this one. It'll be my first "Monster Receiver" repair. I do like how most of the boards are very modular.

Unfortunately, my timing is a bit off as I move in a week, but whatever.

The things I would like to address in my rebuild are:
Pretty much everything outlined in Leesterio's rebuild with the extras done in Steven Tate's restore threads.
The cigarette smell - Advice Needed
Perform any service bulletins - May need some help here
Address the hissing and popping accompanying power on
Replace or fix faceplate - Anyone know where I can get a good silver one?

About the hissing, does anyone have any ideas? I'm going to guess a signal path transistor somewhere but honestly, I'm not certain, its nowhere near as violent as the noisy transistors in my friends SX-636. It goes away after about 20 seconds, but it still scares me.
 
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So Starting with the PSU:

I've already ordered the following for the PSU:
R801 150Ώ/5W - TT Electronics 150Ώ/7W Mouser 66-W221500JRLF
Hope this resistor will work, the original one in the first thread was OOS.

C803 470µF/63V - Nichicon PW 1200µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1J122MHD
C804 220µF/63V - Nichicon PW 680µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1J681MHD
C805 470µF/16V - Nichicon PW 470µF/35V Mouser 647-UPW1V471MPD
C806 220µF/63V - Nichicon PW 680µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1J681MHD
C807 330µF/50V - Nichicon PW 330µF/50V Mouser 647-UPW1H331MPD
C809 10µF/50V - Nichicon PW 22µF/50V Mouser 647-UPW1H220MDD

C811 10µF/16V - Nichicon PW 22µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1V221MPD6TD
-Hope this one will work as well, think its a slightly different size than the original thread.
C812 47µF/16V - Nichicon PW 47µF/25V Mouser 647-UPW1E470MDD
C813 220µF/10V - Nichicon PW 220µF/35V Mouser 647-UPW1V221MPD6

H801/802 2SD331 - ON Semi MJE15030G Mouser 863-MJE15030G
H808/809 DS-131B - NXP BYQ28E-200,127 Mouser 771-BYQ28E-200127

L801 24V/10A Relay - Omron LY2-0-DC24 Mouser 653-LY2-0-DC24

I'll keep everyone updated once the parts for this board arrive. Looking forward to taking this thing apart.

Also, are there any film caps people recommend, or specific audio caps for the amp circuits? I want to go all out with this guy. It was cheap enough going the extra Mile will be worth it.
 
wlhd1610 said:
I like the WIMA MKS 2 poly films for 10uf or less in the signal path.

Not cheap but well worth it.

Bob
Click to expand...

Considering the amp itself was only $500 I may splurge, and I'll likely be getting most of that back due to the shipping issues
 
Nice find! I remember buying my first 2325 a few years back for $400. Scared the heck outta me at first but turned out great. I’m sure yours will too.

The problem with cigarette smoke is it permeates everything. On wires, boards, components, etc. Everything! You can get most of it with carefully cleaning each board as you refurb them. Then surrounding components you may not be replacing. Isopropyl alcohol is a common cleaning agent. Some like qtips for an applicator. Some don’t. Some have literally washed their entire receiver but don’t recommend that for the faint of heart.

And if all that still leaves a little smell I’ve experimented with sealing the receiver in a container with a few open boxes of baking soda for a few weeks. Seems to work and cheap to try.

Good luck with your restoration.
 
I've already scrubbed down the top, sides and back with isopropyl. It's
MBuras said:
Nice find! I remember buying my first 2325 a few years back for $400. Scared the heck outta me at first but turned out great. I’m sure yours will too.

The problem with cigarette smoke is it permeates everything. On wires, boards, components, etc. Everything! You can get most of it with carefully cleaning each board as you refurb them. Then surrounding components you may not be replacing. Isopropyl alcohol is a common cleaning agent. Some like qtips for an applicator. Some don’t. Some have literally washed their entire receiver but don’t recommend that for the faint of heart.

And if all that still leaves a little smell I’ve experimented with sealing the receiver in a container with a few open boxes of baking soda for a few weeks. Seems to work and cheap to try.

Good luck with your restoration.
Click to expand...
smelling a bit better. Just letting it sit out with some dryer sheets for now. I figure once I get rid of most of the dust it should get a bit better.

I usually fix iPods, so this receiver is a new game for me ;P
 
Wait till you hear an iPod through your restored 2325. :rockon:

Good luck with your restoration. Some great experts here to help and encourage as you go.
 
Fairlane said:
Wait till you hear an iPod through your restored 2325. :rockon:

Good luck with your restoration. Some great experts here to help and encourage as you go.
Click to expand...

The iPod Already sounded pretty good unrestored lol.

I'm just debating whether audio grade electrolytic caps are worth the premium... I figure not too much since amp design matters more, as proved by my Marantz 250M beating out my Yamaha M-40 (Which has black gates)...
 
Top cover can probably be straightened with some hardwood blocks and a mallet. I'd strip the vinyl and have it powdercoated if you get it straight.

Bob (wlhd1610) has beautiful reproduction faceplates, silver or black.

Cigarette smell is a tough one. Last one I did, I used Simple Green on the boards, and scrubbed everything with acid brushes. Then I'd tilt the receiver up so I could rinse it all down with 91% isopropyl alcohol. Takes a few rinses and more scrubbing with acid brushes so there's no residue left behind. Don't get Simple Green in pots, the cores on the tuner boards, or in the tuning capacitor.
 
wlhd1610 said:
I like the WIMA MKS 2 poly films for 10uf or less in the signal path.

Not cheap but well worth it.

Bob
Click to expand...

Ill probably have more questions when I get to the signal path. But would you replace the 10uf or less electrolytics or just the polyester film ones? I figure there's a definite price to performance on those caps so I don't see the point in ordering like $50 uber audiophile capacitors.
 
I'll pm you a rundown of what I do for my clients 2325 restorations.
But as a general rule concerning the caps I only renew the electrolytics and tantalums.
I also renew known to be troublesome transistors, resistors,diodes,protection relays,etc.along with much more.
It's easy to do them while you have the unit stripped down and open on the bench rather than to "only fix what's broken" ten different times over a few years.

Bob

Bob
 
wlhd1610 said:
I'll pm you a rundown of what I do for my clients 2325 restorations.
But as a general rule concerning the caps I only renew the electrolytics and tantalums.
I also renew known to be troublesome transistors, resistors,diodes,protection relays,etc.along with much more.
It's easy to do them while you have the unit stripped down and open on the bench rather than to "only fix what's broken" ten different times over a few years.

Bob

Bob
Click to expand...

Since you seem to be the expert here, I replaced all of the PSU components as per https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/starting-marantz-2325-rebuild.736819/

Now it seems my fuse, F801, blows on start up. Does anything Look terribly off In my PSU section? Maybe I reversed a pin or shorted something.
 

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Update, im just stupid. Had the wire from J805 (I think) crimped to chassis on accident. PSU is now upgraded successfully, aside from the relay. My relay appears to have two pins removed, can I just remove these on my replacement as well?


Now to address the DC on output issues. Seems to have 75mv or so on the left channel and 100mv on the right, and they fluctuate alot when first turned on creating a nasty hiss.
 
goldswimmerb said:
Update, im just stupid. Had the wire from J805 (I think) crimped to chassis on accident. PSU is now upgraded successfully, aside from the relay. My relay appears to have two pins removed, can I just remove these on my replacement as well?


Now to address the DC on output issues. Seems to have 75mv or so on the left channel and 100mv on the right, and they fluctuate alot when first turned on creating a nasty hiss.
Click to expand...
Glad you found the issue.
Yup, just snip the pins on the new one.
 
ivandezande said:
Glad you found the issue.
Yup, just snip the pins on the new one.
Click to expand...

Im having a hard time comparing the pinout if the old one vs the new one, I think it's the two top most pins on the old one that are snipped, so I guess I'll just do that on the new one.
 
Due to pin orientation and spacing, the relay should only go in one way. Orient it the same as the old one and snip off the unneeded pins.
 
So I guess to keep this up to date I'll post the parts I used in each step.

R801 150Ώ/5W - TT Electronics 150Ώ/7W Mouser

C803 470µF/63V - Nichicon PW 1200µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1J122MHD
C804 220µF/63V - Nichicon PW 680µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1J681MHD
C805 470µF/16V - Nichicon PW 470µF/35V Mouser 647-UPW1V471MPD
C806 220µF/63V - Nichicon PW 680µF/63V Mouser 647-UPW1J681MHD
C807 330µF/50V - Nichicon PW 330µF/50V Mouser 647-UPW1H331MPD
C809 10µF/50V - Nichicon PW 22µF/50V Mouser 647-UPW1H220MDD
C811 10µF/16V - Nichicon PW 22µF/63V Mouser 647-1J220MED1TD
C812 47µF/16V - Nichicon PW 47µF/25V Mouser 647-UPW1E470MDD
C813 220µF/10V - Nichicon PW 220µF/35V Mouser 647-UPW1V221MPD6

H801/802 2SD331 - ON Semi MJE15030G Mouser 863-MJE15030G
H808/809 DS-131B - NXP BYQ28E-200,127 Mouser 771-BYQ28E-200127

L801 24V/10A Relay - Omron LY2-0-DC24 Mouser 653-LY2-0-DC24 - Hopefully this has the right pinout/will fit after I clip those pins.
Relay has not been installed yet as I need to clip som
 
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