Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
Lol. Well, thanks, but I’m sure you know I’m a relative novice, so my thread is a compilation of a lot of experienced members. Good luck with the restoration. I just love my 2325, and it still sounds great.
Yet another Marantz 2325 restoration thread
- Thread starter goldswimmerb
- Start date
Also, It seems mouser is OOS on 661-E36D750N183TC79M anyone got any good replacements?
Steven Tate
CEO Flat Forehead Soc.
The service manual specifies LY2. I’m not sure if they made some units with another relay, but I doubt it. You should be able to remove the old one and compare to a ew LY2.
For the tone board I'm planning to go with:
CE01/02 680pF - TDK 680pF/250V C0G Mouser 810-FG28C0G2E681JNT6
CE05/06 1µF/250V - Panasonic 1µF/250VDC Mouser 667-ECW-F2105JA
CE09/10 100µF/10V - Nichicon FG 100µF/10V Mouser 647-UFG1A101MEM
CE11/12 10µF/35V - Nichicon ES bipolar 10µF/35V Mouser 647-UES1V100MEM
CE13/14 3.3µF/35V - WIMA film 3.3µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS23.3/50/10
CE33/34 1µF/25V - WIMA film 1µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
CE35/36 3.3µF/25V - WIMA film 3.3µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS23.3/50/10
CE37/38 4.7µF/16V - WIMA film 4.7µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS2-4.7/50/10
CE39 220µF/35V - Nichicon FG 470µF/35V Mouser 647-UFG1V471MHM
Unless there are better film caps out there to use (I dont think spending $25 per cap for some uber audiophile snake oil cap makes sense though), I dont mind going over the top since this amp was cheap. I would use UKZ caps, but they only come in 25v and 50v in the size I need which would likely make the cap too large.
CE01/02 680pF - TDK 680pF/250V C0G Mouser 810-FG28C0G2E681JNT6
CE05/06 1µF/250V - Panasonic 1µF/250VDC Mouser 667-ECW-F2105JA
CE09/10 100µF/10V - Nichicon FG 100µF/10V Mouser 647-UFG1A101MEM
CE11/12 10µF/35V - Nichicon ES bipolar 10µF/35V Mouser 647-UES1V100MEM
CE13/14 3.3µF/35V - WIMA film 3.3µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS23.3/50/10
CE33/34 1µF/25V - WIMA film 1µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS2B041001C00KS
CE35/36 3.3µF/25V - WIMA film 3.3µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS23.3/50/10
CE37/38 4.7µF/16V - WIMA film 4.7µF/50V Mouser 505-MKS2-4.7/50/10
CE39 220µF/35V - Nichicon FG 470µF/35V Mouser 647-UFG1V471MHM
Unless there are better film caps out there to use (I dont think spending $25 per cap for some uber audiophile snake oil cap makes sense though), I dont mind going over the top since this amp was cheap. I would use UKZ caps, but they only come in 25v and 50v in the size I need which would likely make the cap too large.
Out of curiosity, will a 25v cap be too big for CE09/10?
Is it worth swapping out CE19/20/21/22? I saw on the forum some people dislike them.
If I don't use AM/FM (and any of Dolby stuff) is there any point in recapping those boards? AM radio is truly a dead format, and FMradio is dying...
If you're ever going to sell it, and for the point of completion, yes.
Well, I guess I'll be doing it then. Was planning on reselling this beast as I already have a 250M. I didn't realize anyone actually used FM anymore. Where I am it's all country music, advertisements and the local school station.
So update, just finished up the tone board. People were saying how hard it is to get too, but I had no issues at all. Not sure what the fuss is about.
Anyway, attached are before and after pics. They we're out of the Panasonic films for CE05/06 so I went with some WIMA one's there. I've had pleasant experiences with WIMA in the past. Is there any reason most guides ignore the (I think film) capacitors that are orange and green on this board? Currently running the amp and it already seems to sound more robust.
Anyway, attached are before and after pics. They we're out of the Panasonic films for CE05/06 so I went with some WIMA one's there. I've had pleasant experiences with WIMA in the past. Is there any reason most guides ignore the (I think film) capacitors that are orange and green on this board? Currently running the amp and it already seems to sound more robust.
Attachments
And another question, I already went ahead and swapped out the differential transistors with a matched pair, however the transistor Bias seems to be a bit wonky, I can dial it in to 15mv, however it doesn't like to stay there, obviously this throws off the DC offset as well, any ideas? How long should I be waiting to adjust it? It may just be an issue with my patience.
How long should I be waiting to adjust bias and DC offset? It seems to start at around 13mv and then ramp up to 15mv+
I haven't, is that a common cause of the bias and offset being wonky? Is there a safe way to do it with the bias one? I'd hate to accidentally blow my outputs
They're wire wound pots but I use F5 Faderlube on them.
Several cleanings are usually required.
Of course,unit is off and unplugged when cleaning!
I don't believe in changing them out just for "changes sake" as the OEM's are fairly robust and rarely fail.
Set the bias for around 10mvdc for starters at idle(no signal-volume down).
Let the unit warm up for 30 minutes or so and check it again.
It usually climbs a little as it warms up and steadys.
Also make sure the selector switch is on Aux position ,that way there's no chance of the AM/FM sections punching an extraneous signal causing the DC Offset to lightly fluctuate.
Bob
Several cleanings are usually required.
Of course,unit is off and unplugged when cleaning!
I don't believe in changing them out just for "changes sake" as the OEM's are fairly robust and rarely fail.
Set the bias for around 10mvdc for starters at idle(no signal-volume down).
Let the unit warm up for 30 minutes or so and check it again.
It usually climbs a little as it warms up and steadys.
Also make sure the selector switch is on Aux position ,that way there's no chance of the AM/FM sections punching an extraneous signal causing the DC Offset to lightly fluctuate.
Bob