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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

Roughly 3DB of attenuation.

I claim no accuracy on a quick in my head calc after a rough friday night out, :)
 
With the knobs on my two E'Wave L-pads set to 12:00 ("Normal," mid-way,) the resistance readings on my trusty Fluke DMM are as follows:

Series = 3.4, 3.5 Ohms
Parallel = 22.8, 22.1 Ohms

What is their mean dB attenuation using a nominal 8-Ohm HF compression driver?

Extra Credit:

What is that of each of them set to this position?

And the arithmetic mean of those two values?

By my figuring, the attenuation is 3.9 and 4.1 dB with a mean of 4 dB.
 
Hi Zilch
All of the above two answers!:D

I want to learn. That's all. Thanks.
Hey how do you like ur SA1000?

I like that SA 1000 fine, its got a couple of issues right now, I think they are related to the delay. Just havent had time to mess with it. On with the spice learning.:thmbsp:

russellc
 
I just had to post this because I was VERY impressed. I have been screwing around with my system this morning and on a whim, I disconnected one of my ewave horns and hooked up one of my Heils, the big ones, in its place. The ewave came VERY VERY close to the Heil in the high details. The Heil did sound better, but not by much. I am constantly impressed with this project, thanks to all that work so hard to develop it. Cheers.
 
I too was playing this morning with the econowaves, with the 2235H instead of 2225H un the JBL 4547 boxes. At first I was missing the 2225H slam. At first.
They have broken in nicely, and sound fantastic with econowave. Everything is there from top to bottom. Absolutely no need whatso ever for subs, these will shake the house and still play wonderful mids up to its crossover point.

Russellc
 
Hey Russellc, yep, top to bottom they sound great. YOu should try the foam plugs Keggers been talking about. They really make a difference when you turn it up. Smooths the top end out and still is LOUD. Cheers.
 
By my figuring, the attenuation is 3.9 and 4.1 dB with a mean of 4 dB.
Dr. Beaker's calcs are correct.

If you average the L-Pad resistance values first, the answer is 4.0002 dB.

Calc'ing each one individually, they are 3.9408 and 4.0600, respectively, and the mean is 4.0004; properly stated to one significant decimal place, it's 4.0 dB in both cases.

********

I am analyzing the issue Wayne raised with respect to dissipation in the attenuation and HF compensation resistors R1 and R2. The more the overall attenuation required, and the higher the SPL, the higher that is.

In Jack's E'Wave implementation of Wayne's filter, however, the power dissipation is shared between the filter resistors AND the L-pad, which is providing, nominally, up to 4 dB or more of the attenuation.

Are anyone's R1 or R2 getting hot when E'Wave is played at high levels for long periods? Which one?

I can certainly see that in a commercial product sometimes used in sound reinforcement applications at high SPL, it might be prudent to increase the power dissipation capacity of one or both of the compensation/attenuation filter resistors in systems using low-efficiency woofers, particularly if there is no L-pad doing part of the job.

I have not come to any conclusion yet; may we have some input from those of you actually using the E'Wave circuit, please?
 
I just had to post this because I was VERY impressed. I have been screwing around with my system this morning and on a whim, I disconnected one of my ewave horns and hooked up one of my Heils, the big ones, in its place. The ewave came VERY VERY close to the Heil in the high details. The Heil did sound better, but not by much. I am constantly impressed with this project, thanks to all that work so hard to develop it. Cheers.
The Heil AMT was certainly an innovative design, but has its own set of issues, limitations, and application requirements.

While there are many enthusiasts who would opine otherwise, it's not head-and-shoulders above the performance of other technologies, as you have yourself now demonstrated.... :yes:

Everything is there from top to bottom. Absolutely no need whatso ever for subs, these will shake the house and still play wonderful mids up to its crossover point.
2235H is an amazingly competent woofer for use in home systems; it incorporated major advances in JBL transducer design.

It's no coincidence that it's also used as a sub in B380, another easy and popular DIY build.... :thmbsp:
 
Is there a "perfect" size cabinet that the 2235H's will work best in?

I'm still deciding what I should put in the Barzilay's. They are right around 4 1/2 ft3 minus the driver and port volumes.

I am up for pretty much anything. What would be the best I could put in these with a budget of $200-300 per driver for this size cabinet? Old or new?

Denny
 
Yep Z. for my money, the Heil is a great super tweeter. Running it down to 2000hz on the ESS was just too steril. As a super tweeter is gives the system great "air" and detail up there. They will be a great addition to my Imperials with Edgarhorn 350hz salad bowls. Cheers.
 
I'm still deciding what I should put in the Barzilay's. They are right around 4 1/2 ft3 minus the driver and port volumes.
2235H will work in that volume, but I don't believe you'll get E'Wave on the baffle with it. For building using such beautiful cabinets as the Barzilays, that would be a deal breaker for me.

That's why Jack, Duff, Wired, and I choose to use LE14s in similar cabinets -- they are only 12-3/4" across the "flats" of their truncated squircle frames, and the latest versions of LE14 incorporate many of the design innovations of 2235H at approximately the same cost. LE14H-1 and H-3, for example, are certainly not "second tier" by any means or measure; you'll find them in several of JBL's TOTL home systems.... :thmbsp:
 
Gentlemen!

Thank you! I've been listening to my new Econowaves. They sound beautiful! Certainly, they sound much better than what I had before. I've auditioned some exotic and expansive speakers such as Utopia, Westminster, etc. They were nice. But I really like what I hear from my new system. And the price? Not even funny cheap.

So Jack, Zilch, Skywave, Wayne, Kegger, Russellc. I asked a lot of questions. I did not mean to sound like an ungrateful dork. I was just having a lot of fun. Once again, thanks a lot.
As soon as I put a finishing touch, I will post some pictures of my enclosures. Then again, u may laugh at my refrigerator look a likes.
 
You gotta post pics to qualify as an "Official" E'Waver. It doesn't matter what they look like, as long as they SOUND good!

I will! I want to be an "Official" E'waver. Can't miss that!

Jack and Zilch you guys really set a benchmark with the Valencia thread and the Econowave to follow. I salute u! :ntwrthy::ntwrthy::ntwrthy::ntwrthy:
 
I will! I want to be an "Official" E'waver. Can't miss that!

Jack and Zilch you guys really set a benchmark with the Valencia thread and the Econowave to follow. I salute u! :ntwrthy::ntwrthy::ntwrthy::ntwrthy:

Thanks, mrTT.

Zilch and I have had a blast working on this thread, and both of us have a few more projects to finish.

Then we may go get real jobs. :yes:

Nah, just kidding about those jobs.
 
I have some EV SP12's which are rated right at or just below 95dB, so they seem to be on the fence regarding which crossover schematic to choose. Any advice? Crossover for <95dB or >95db? I need to order some parts and can't decide which to use. Is it better to have more attenuation in the fixed resistors or run the Lpad's turned down?

Thanks,
John
 
Hey Russellc, yep, top to bottom they sound great. YOu should try the foam plugs Keggers been talking about. They really make a difference when you turn it up. Smooths the top end out and still is LOUD. Cheers.

Where does everyone get these plugs of foam from? I'd like to buy and try a set to check it out:yes: Thanks for the headsup!

Russellc
 
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