Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
Funny thing is, @ 20bucks, I couldn't source the materials. To make tag boards no less, having a good layout on a proper board.:yes:
Damn Zilch, I'll bet you could go into mass production, prob' do well enuf
to put kids thru college,... if you marketed them well enuf
Thanks, guys, but let's not let this get out of hand, as we're not allowed to sell stuff here on the forum, and there's obviously no room for marketing expenses.
Once Jack did the artwork, it was easy enough to offer the convenience, but nobody's gonna retire on the proceeds, I assure you.
Note in the pics that I run the lead from the center of the small inductor across the top in the open rather than capturing it beneath the coil. There is some risk of it shorting to the windings should the enamel wear through, otherwise. That risk is lower if you use the recommended foam tape under it as the Bauhausler did, but I'd probably put an insulating sleeve or something to positively separate the lead there if I were dressing it that way. It doesn't have to be much, a small piece of masking tape or similar would be enough, or a tab of the label, which we've taken to putting under there for component ID purposes.... :yes:
Once Jack did the artwork, it was easy enough to offer the convenience, but nobody's gonna retire on the proceeds, I assure you.
Note in the pics that I run the lead from the center of the small inductor across the top in the open rather than capturing it beneath the coil. There is some risk of it shorting to the windings should the enamel wear through, otherwise. That risk is lower if you use the recommended foam tape under it as the Bauhausler did, but I'd probably put an insulating sleeve or something to positively separate the lead there if I were dressing it that way. It doesn't have to be much, a small piece of masking tape or similar would be enough, or a tab of the label, which we've taken to putting under there for component ID purposes.... :yes:
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Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
You know what a pain Advent Masonite woofers are to do? I have 8 of them to refoam now. EIGHT! Bah. I'm getting an Ipod.
BTW, there will be no debut of new Ewave speakers at the 6/27 SMAC meet at Dennis' place. I have family suddenly in town from both coasts and can't swing the hours to get the cabinets done. maybe next month. Anyway, you heard my Utilities at his place last year so no actual loss.
'Scuse me. It's 1:00 am and I need to go paint 4 different things before I go to bed...
BTW, there will be no debut of new Ewave speakers at the 6/27 SMAC meet at Dennis' place. I have family suddenly in town from both coasts and can't swing the hours to get the cabinets done. maybe next month. Anyway, you heard my Utilities at his place last year so no actual loss.
'Scuse me. It's 1:00 am and I need to go paint 4 different things before I go to bed...
Pio1980
AK Member
Yeah, like Dahlquists, DQ-20i specifically.
I used the VC shims and did the cone part first with the surround sitting on the ring, pulling the cone up to the surround with the glue applied and set the surround firmly to the cone with fingertips. Once the glue sets, pull the cone down and work the surround under the ring and coat surround and underside of ring with glue and push the cone partway back up. Next cut up your fingers on the basket's rough edges setting the surround firmly to the ring with the fingertips. Try not to bleed on the cone or woodwork. Let glue set for a few hours, remove shims and replace dustcap.
Simple!
Now multiply by eight (groan!).
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Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
Nearly the same woofer. I sold a friend a pair of DQ20i that I bought at a garage sale. When the foams let go I let him re-do them.
My technique involves taping the outer flange of the foam to the underside of the Masonite, gluing the inner over the cone edge, testing for centering, then gluing the outer edge by injecting glue under with a syringe. Actually I use a syringe to apply all glue now. It's more precise. I've done over 80 drivers and never shimmed a VC. I need to be able to move the cone to feel the centering. If the VC is shimmed you risk applying the foam with lateral tension that you don't discover until the shims come out and the former rubs.
On vintage speakers I find that a lot of cones are no longer round, from being vertical for decades. You can't eyeball the edge and always get it concentric.
The worst part of Masonite Advents is prepping the cone and frame. There is no good way to get under that rim, and you need to get ALL of the old adhesive off to get a good seal for the new foam. I improvised an L shaped scraper with coarse sandpaper and that does some of the work but I still need to flip it over and scrape the rest off with a tiny wood chisel. Maddening.
Most woofer refoaming is 85% prep. If you don't have the frame and cone clean then nothing you can do with glue will save you. If you get them prepped right then the gluing is just steady hands and good planning.
So right! On one pair of small woofers I decided to shim the VC because I was replacing the dustcaps anyways and one of them came out with a rubbing VC! Later when I did my pair of JBL LE14As I also shimmed, but this time I removed the shims just after setting the glued in surrounds in place and checked for rubbing by manually moving the cone and also using the 30Hz tone - they came out perfect.
ROSSO
Active Member
win ISD 0.4x results
I'm having difficulty getting consistant results for the port calcs done by winISD 0.4x for my LE14A - Altec Santana econowave cabinets. Off topic for this thread, so I started a new one. If any of you guys are experienced with winISD and can tell me what the problem may be, I'd appreciate your input on the other thread. Thanks.
I'm having difficulty getting consistant results for the port calcs done by winISD 0.4x for my LE14A - Altec Santana econowave cabinets. Off topic for this thread, so I started a new one. If any of you guys are experienced with winISD and can tell me what the problem may be, I'd appreciate your input on the other thread. Thanks.
BHamm
The pendulum swings.
Hi all. I don't mean to barge in on your erudite missives, but I came to the only place I know for expert advice.
My plan is to put together an ewave JBL system using the C-36 cabinets. They have internal measurements of 13X18x22.25.
My goal is to build a two way system using either a 12 or 14 inch LF driver and a compression driver and WG. I have seen the LE14A for 200.00 and up.
I would like to Bi-amp, and I am looking for more bass than my current favorite speakers, ADS L810s.
I need advise on what driver combo will work best in the cabs I have chosen, and help with the Xovers.
I have previously built a WG conversion using the AR2ax and a lot of help from Zilch:thmbsp:
My listening room is aprox 400 sq ft.
So what do the experts say?
BHamm
My plan is to put together an ewave JBL system using the C-36 cabinets. They have internal measurements of 13X18x22.25.
My goal is to build a two way system using either a 12 or 14 inch LF driver and a compression driver and WG. I have seen the LE14A for 200.00 and up.
I would like to Bi-amp, and I am looking for more bass than my current favorite speakers, ADS L810s.
I need advise on what driver combo will work best in the cabs I have chosen, and help with the Xovers.
I have previously built a WG conversion using the AR2ax and a lot of help from Zilch:thmbsp:
My listening room is aprox 400 sq ft.
So what do the experts say?
BHamm
C36 Viscount is an excellent E'Wave project. Mxlews and I built the first pairs, which actually launched EconoWave, in vintage cabs with removable front and rear baffles. Those builds are documented here and on LHF.
Wiredbecker subsequently scored a pair of factory C36 cabs with the original aluminum "stiletto" legs, fixed front baffles, and "slide-out-the-bottom" grilles. We worked out a scheme to overlay new baffles on the front and still have everything work and look as originally designed. That work-in-progress is documented in this thread; we are now to the point of making a pattern to rout out the counterbore recess in the baffles necessary to flush-mount the waveguides.
Many E'Wavers have built with LE14As to satisfying result in similarly modest-sized cabinets, which these woofers do best. A particular advantage is the system is imminently upgradable from the basic E'Waves Jackgiff has built, through the BMS driver versions Max, Chris, and I have done, to the fully tricked-out LE14H-3/2452H-SL combos Duffinator presently enjoys, which you may have heard. I say "Go for it;" there are plenty of LE14As out there, and they're proven performers.... :thmbsp:
Wiredbecker subsequently scored a pair of factory C36 cabs with the original aluminum "stiletto" legs, fixed front baffles, and "slide-out-the-bottom" grilles. We worked out a scheme to overlay new baffles on the front and still have everything work and look as originally designed. That work-in-progress is documented in this thread; we are now to the point of making a pattern to rout out the counterbore recess in the baffles necessary to flush-mount the waveguides.
Many E'Wavers have built with LE14As to satisfying result in similarly modest-sized cabinets, which these woofers do best. A particular advantage is the system is imminently upgradable from the basic E'Waves Jackgiff has built, through the BMS driver versions Max, Chris, and I have done, to the fully tricked-out LE14H-3/2452H-SL combos Duffinator presently enjoys, which you may have heard. I say "Go for it;" there are plenty of LE14As out there, and they're proven performers.... :thmbsp:
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BHamm
The pendulum swings.
I am leaning towards the LE14A for performance and price.
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
Attachments
BHamm
The pendulum swings.
These are C38 with baffle plates for LE14
If using the LE14A, what JBL CD would complament it best, or would money be better spent with the BMS driver?
I put the "S" on the end of LE14 to indicate more than one.....plural.
Fits:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2144967#post2144967
If you want an upgrade over the standard E'Wave shown above, then it's BMS 4555 on the 1.5" version of the E'Waveguide, PT-F95HF, P/N 338650-001, $113 each, MSRP.
There's an intermediate solution, BMS 4550 or 4552nd (a Zilchster favorite) on the standard $9.90 1" E'Waveguide, with throat adapter.... :yes:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2144967#post2144967
If you want an upgrade over the standard E'Wave shown above, then it's BMS 4555 on the 1.5" version of the E'Waveguide, PT-F95HF, P/N 338650-001, $113 each, MSRP.
There's an intermediate solution, BMS 4550 or 4552nd (a Zilchster favorite) on the standard $9.90 1" E'Waveguide, with throat adapter.... :yes:
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BHamm
The pendulum swings.
Yes, this is a pair.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=2144967#post2144967
If you want an upgrade over the standard E'Wave shown above, then it's BMS 4555 on the 1.5" version of the E'Waveguide, PT-F95HF, P/N 338650-001, $113 each, MSRP.
There's an intermediate solution, BMS 4550 or 4552nd (a Zilchster favorite) on the standard $9.90 1" E'Waveguide, with throat adapter.... :yes:
OK, I am looking into the BMS 4555. I don't mind the step-up as these will likely be my main speakers for a while. I don't think the JBL 2452H-SL(s) are in my price range, although upgrading later will be a snap.
I will be looking at passive bi-amping. I plan to spend time this weekend doing more research. Thanks gentlemen.
Agreed. I cut a lot of knuckles on those guys.
What helps quite a bit is a tool I "made".
I took an old kitchen knife and bent it in a vise to about 45 degrees and snapped it off. That allows it to get under the back of the Masonite and scrape it off. I also use some Jasco Adhesive stripper applied with a long handled artist's brush to soften it up. Works quite well.