Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
The MRX waveguide is integral, and N/A.
The PRX is separate, and seems to be the same device. JBL doesn't call either a "waveguide" anywhere that we've been able to find; I suspect it's more akin to the OASR, and though we like how those play in AR4s, for example, we don't know that flare, either....
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Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
Not appearance or ease of service, apparently. With the Masonite ring on the frame it's nearly impossible to neatly glue these new surrounds. The rim of the surround is very narrow and the surround is floppy. Doesn't want to stay on.
I did a second pair by flipping over the Masonite ring so I'm gluing on a surface that has never had glue on it. It's smooth and easier to deal with. These will be a challenge to install. One woofer has the cone 'biased' to the side to the extent that the spider does not center it. The VC former rubs when moved. It must have been stored with no foam holding the cone centered and the spider took a 'set'. The new foam will correct this if I glue it on with the cone held in center.
Sorry- I should have mentioned the "trick" to this.
If you're using white glue (slow-dry)... put glue on the inner part of the surround and the cone, then install the surround to the cone. Once the surround is on the cone, push it behind the masonite ring (into it's "normal" position, roughly), and carefully put glue on the flange of the surround, where it meets the masonite ring, and/or on the mating surface on the backside of the masonite ring. Turn the speaker FACE DOWN, and let the cone SAG to the point where the surround flange contacts the backside of the masonite ring soundly. Verify the cone is centered (no rub), and then leave the woofer face-down until dry.
I have yet to see an Advent woofer for which this procedure would not work.
Regards,
Gordon.
Sir.Byrd
Lunatic Member
+ 1
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
The problem I have with these isn't applying glue - I use a syringe - or attaching the surround, it's getting the old glue and surround residue off of the underside of the Masonite. You either have to flip the driver over and work through the holes in the basket with a chisel to pick all of the rubbery old adhesive off of the masonite or you risk gluing the new surround over whatever bumps and residue are left from the old rotted foam. I removed the masonite from the frame to get the old glue/foam off, then discovered it was easier to just reverse the masonite over and glue the new surround to the clean side.
It's worth the trouble to know that everything is correctly aligned and firmly attached.
It's worth the trouble to know that everything is correctly aligned and firmly attached.
Just connect directly to the woofers, and that's gonna work, I betcha.
[We'll know tomorrow night.... :thmbsp: ]
Russellc
Addicted Member
In that photo the Masonite has just been yanked off and no glue has been removed. I'll take a slose up of the next (3rd) one I do. There's less than a 1/4" of contact between the frame and the Masonite. The adhesive is the same tan stuff that the spider is attached to the frame with. The adhesive holding the surround to the cone and to the Masonite is a clear amber color. It's a PITA to remove. Unless there's something I haven't found yet that will soften it it has to be peeled off manually a few mm at a time.
Actually, it's unnecessary to remove the glue from the Masonite at all. You can just flip it over and glue the clean former 'upper' surface down.
I finished this pair around 3:00 am. When the glue is fully cured I'll use WT3 to compare them to some that I've refoamed in the past with the conventional thick generic foams. For this pair I used a different, thinner and more flexible foam which I expect to give a lower Fs due to being less 'springy'.
*EDIT*
Yup. The two woofers refoamed with the thinner foam have resonances of 16 and 17 hz. The older ones with the thicker generic foam measure 38 and 42 hz. A pretty significant difference.
*/EDIT*
Let us know about any sonic differences between the original and the new "Lower Fs" version, ok?
russellc
Duffinator
Spin The Black Circle
Free Speaker Cabinets
I was given these ADC speaker cabinets from AK member goraman and they are in nice condition. They are available for pick up in Roseville, Sacramento, or Berkeley at Zilchlab. I think these are going to make an excellent eWave project. The wood pieces on the front can easily be removed so you can modify the front baffle. The exterior dimensions are:
H = 40" including the 2" risers
W = 17"
D = 11"
A nice JBL badge should cover up the ADC logo.
Please send me a PM if you are interested.
I was given these ADC speaker cabinets from AK member goraman and they are in nice condition. They are available for pick up in Roseville, Sacramento, or Berkeley at Zilchlab. I think these are going to make an excellent eWave project. The wood pieces on the front can easily be removed so you can modify the front baffle. The exterior dimensions are:
H = 40" including the 2" risers
W = 17"
D = 11"
A nice JBL badge should cover up the ADC logo.
Please send me a PM if you are interested.
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Brett
Active Member
Kudo's, Zilch & all!
Well I guess I messed something up during the x-over assembly. But I'm already an hour past time to get some sleep for work tomorrow. Btw I went with the high efficiency design.
I'm getting output on one of my 12" woofers, but not the other. And no output from either selenium. doh! The l-pad has no effect on anything. If I crank the sound waaay up, then I can almost barely hear something from the Selenium.
I'm sure it's something simple I missed?
I'm using my AVR's built-in amp to power everything.
Well I guess I messed something up during the x-over assembly. But I'm already an hour past time to get some sleep for work tomorrow. Btw I went with the high efficiency design.
I'm getting output on one of my 12" woofers, but not the other. And no output from either selenium. doh! The l-pad has no effect on anything. If I crank the sound waaay up, then I can almost barely hear something from the Selenium.
I'm sure it's something simple I missed?
I'm using my AVR's built-in amp to power everything.
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Jumpers J1, 2, &3 are missing in the top pic, and I can't see if you've installed all three in the bottom one.
You've got R1 and R2 reversed; the 16 Ohms should be up top next to the small 1.5 uF cap, and the 25 Ohms below, next to the 4.7 uF and inductor.
I presume the tweeter leads are coming from the HF connection points in the upper right corner?
I can't guess why one woofer is not working, assuming J1 and J2 are in place, other than you possibly didn't scrape the enamel off the leads of the 1.5 mHz inductor well enough down to bare copper so that the solder would make contact with it.
To unsolder the resistor leads, go to Radio Shack and pick up some solder wick braid to draw it off when reheated. Heat gun will possibly soften the hot melt glue enough to remove the resistors themselves intact once the leads are free. :yes:
Edit: Indeed, J3 is missing in your bottom pic. The tweeters won't work without that in place....
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doh! Thanks, Zilch! 
Maybe one of the woofer leads fell off. I had trouble getting them to stay on and had to crimp the connectors to get them to be tigher.
Btw, I was going off this pic for the location of the 16ohm resistor. It's Bauhausler's picture of his crossover.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2830228&postcount=6236
Maybe one of the woofer leads fell off. I had trouble getting them to stay on and had to crimp the connectors to get them to be tigher.
Btw, I was going off this pic for the location of the 16ohm resistor. It's Bauhausler's picture of his crossover.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2830228&postcount=6236
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oldskl
Well-Known Member
AK'ers, the Selenium driver is on sale at partsexpress.com right now. Woot! $6 off the pair!
That looks like a heck of a deal on the MTM tritrix speakers project. Ill bet with a little work that could be a nice sounding speaker.
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
doh! Thanks, Zilch!
Maybe one of the woofer leads fell off. I had trouble getting them to stay on and had to crimp the connectors to get them to be tigher.
Btw, I was going off this pic for the location of the 16ohm resistor. It's Bauhausler's picture of his crossover.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showpost.php?p=2830228&postcount=6236
I built the low sensitivity version, as they're going in Advents. In the high sensitivity version the lowest resistor is in series and the highest resistance is the shunt.
Bauhausler
Rational Subjectivist
New OLA Ewave conversion
Dummied up with waveguide and woofer on baffle.
I need to remove that masking tape. I plan to reinstall the plastic edging on the baffle rim. I hope to be able to re-use the original grille cloth on PE grille frames for a stock look. Quite a ways to go. Not a lot of time to finish. I like the look of the black painted woofer frame much better than stock.
Dummied up with waveguide and woofer on baffle.
I need to remove that masking tape. I plan to reinstall the plastic edging on the baffle rim. I hope to be able to re-use the original grille cloth on PE grille frames for a stock look. Quite a ways to go. Not a lot of time to finish. I like the look of the black painted woofer frame much better than stock.
