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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

Heh, heh.

Gordon's goin' into PRODUCTION soon.... ;)

:scratch2:

Would require some "tweeter protection" (PTC or light bulb)... and maybe a notch filter to protect the D220Ti near resonance (700 Hz or thereabouts). And definitely a lot heavier resistors (25 watt).

Hmmm... wonder how much I can inch upward the crossover frequency and still get a good transition to a good 15" woofer? :scratch2:

Regards,
Gordon.
 
I prefer the overhead projector, water, vegetable oil and food color, and clear glass dish to get my colors. LOL
Roll one for me, Russellc!

To stay on topic, the E'wave will be built as a modular unit, not in a box but exposed and naked, pretty with a granite or glass base, stainless steel fittings and clear plexiglas covering the Zilchlab cards.

Oh yeah, I remember those too, always on the wall behind the band, for some reason my memory is a little foggy on this....:scratch2::D:smoke:

russellc
 
:scratch2:

Would require some "tweeter protection" (PTC or light bulb)... and maybe a notch filter to protect the D220Ti near resonance (700 Hz or thereabouts). And definitely a lot heavier resistors (25 watt).

Hmmm... wonder how much I can inch upward the crossover frequency and still get a good transition to a good 15" woofer? :scratch2:

Regards,
Gordon.

Wonder if that notch filter would improve the "regular" setup, a few, I think mainly those with the 210 versions, have complained about a little hottness at the upper frequencies? Or would a notch filter work to lower the 220's extention a little, as it is said that some of its extention is due to controlled breakup up high.....seems like this issue may have floated to the top way back about a bizzillion pages or so. I've had these filters work very well for regular dome tweeters, usually ones that do not incorporate dampening by ferro fluid.

Russellc
 
Wonder if that notch filter would improve the "regular" setup, a few, I think mainly those with the 210 versions, have complained about a little hottness at the upper frequencies? Or would a notch filter work to lower the 220's extention a little, as it is said that some of its extention is due to controlled breakup up high.....seems like this issue may have floated to the top way back about a bizzillion pages or so. I've had these filters work very well for regular dome tweeters, usually ones that do not incorporate dampening by ferro fluid.

Russellc

The notch filter I've used on the D210Ti (on a different horn flare, BTW), was at around 700 Hz. Had no effect on the top octave at all. It was just to control driver excursion at the diaphragm resonance (which is, actually, a bit out of the "usable" band, but still an issue since the crossover isn't "infinite slope", and there's still some energy down there being fed to it).

And, if anything, the D210Ti had a little LESS UHF extension than the D220Ti. The new driver has me wanting a supertweeter less than the old one...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Another E-Wave Advent Variation?

Well, we might be building a different flavor in the E-wave Advent family.

Pete here at the store has a pair of Advent Maestros... terminally damaged midrange domes. Would be interesting to convert the baffle over to E-wave. I think there should be no problem with getting the newer Advent woofer to work- if it, in essence, would work OK in the Advent Legacy-series stuff, it should work just fine with the E-wave horn. Even better, since the crossover is lower in frequency!

If we do this, we may leave them in the store as a speaker-mod demo... it'd be nice to have an exhibit of the types of mods we can do, if desired...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Hmmm... another thing just came to me- an E-wave horn should fit into an EPI M150 cabinet...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Hmmm... wonder how much I can inch upward the crossover frequency and still get a good transition to a good 15" woofer? :scratch2:
Dual 12s'll work too; Giskard showed us the way:

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Hmmm... another thing just came to me- an E-wave horn should fit into an EPI M150 cabinet....
"Waveguide," Gordon, "waveguide." Get with the program here.... :tongue:

Wiredbecker scored a pair of BeoVox S75 this weekend with Seas 25-F EWR 4 Ohms in them. That's the Dynaco A-25 woofer, no?

If so, we're gonna make something E'Wave rock pretty good here with those.... :thmbsp:
 
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Wiredbecker scored a pair of BeoWidget 275 this weekend with Seas 25-F EWR 4 Ohms in them. That's the Dynaco A-25 woofer, no?

If so, we're gonna make something E'Wave rock pretty good here with those.... :thmbsp:

Yep, just 4 ohms rather than 8 (the A25 is 8 ohms). BrassTeacher has a few of those, IIRC.

Will give the same response, and somewhere around 3dB more voltage sensitivity to boot (less padding required on the E-wave)...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Yep, just 4 ohms rather than 8 (the A25 is 8 ohms). BrassTeacher has a few of those, IIRC.

Will give the same response, and somewhere around 3dB more voltage sensitivity to boot (less padding required on the E-wave)....
What's your suggested alignment for these, Gordon? I don't have Xmax, so I guessed at 6mm.

I added Giskard's pic of the dual-12 E'Wave, above. He used the 1.5" throat waveguides, tho. They're built w/22.5° lock-mitre, as I recall, for octagons.... :thmbsp:
 
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I prefer the overhead projector, water, vegetable oil and food color, and clear glass dish to get my colors. LOL
Roll one for me, Russellc!

To stay on topic, the E'wave will be built as a modular unit, not in a box but exposed and naked, pretty with a granite or glass base, stainless steel fittings and clear plexiglas covering the Zilchlab cards.

RE. the Overhead projector thingy and magic smoke;
"Summer Of Love(1968), Chase Mansion, El Paso Tx. Funny the things that trip memory.

I'm still considering going the "podular" route myself. I've had a local cabinet maker fab a pair of simple such out of scrap for the 6X11 W-Gs.
I've been lately distracted by the acquisition of a pair of Yamaha NS-690II. FWIW, I've finally heard a Japanese speaker that passes muster and I generally didn't like Yammy audio products either. Live and learn.
 
Dual 12s'll work too; Giskard showed us the way:..If so, we're gonna make something E'Wave rock pretty good here with those.... :thmbsp:

So since twinning is on the table - what about e-waved twin LE14a's? What would that do for me? What new problems would twinning create? Separate chambers for each (easy to calc) or one big one, and if so, how big? I've got a bunch of LE14A's.
 
So since twinning is on the table - what about e-waved twin LE14a's? What would that do for me? What new problems would twinning create? Separate chambers for each (easy to calc) or one big one, and if so, how big? I've got a bunch of LE14A's.

How about in a di-pole cab? That might be interesting although I am not sure what advantage it would have.
 
I still think it would be cool if someone ewaved some empty Marshall 4 x 12
cabs with maybe 4 dayton classics on the bottom and 4 waveguides up top.
That would be neato in a basement system or double stacking 4 of them
would open up lots of possible combinations but empty your wallet also :sigh:
 
So since twinning is on the table - what about e-waved twin LE14a's? What would that do for me? What new problems would twinning create? Separate chambers for each (easy to calc) or one big one, and if so, how big? I've got a bunch of LE14A's.
Twinning anything is problematic due to phase interference from multiple drivers playing the same frequencies, i.e., it's not suitably done with full bandwidth to achieve nominally more SPL. Instead, the second woofer is employed as a "helper" to augment the low frequency output of the main, and extend it. For the most part, it's hardly apparent that it's even playing.

It's design philosophy we're talking here, and if you want to use a high-efficiency woofer and still get extended bass out of the system, a second run in "0.5" mode will accomplish that, given the correct parameters. See Skywave's video made with dual Altec 414s:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97CEcUEjJAE

LE14As play low even in modest packages, so there's little point in doing this with them. If I had multiple LE14As for projects, I'd be building Citation 7.4 sub cabinets for them (an easy build) and deploying multiples (minimum two) in my listening space per Welti, Geddes, and others:

http://www.harman.com/wp/pdf/multsubs.pdf

Search LHF for the design parameters.
 
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Hmmm. Maybe twinned 2.5-way with D123s? That might actually manage to get some acceptable bottom end "weight" out of them?

It seems to work with other JBL drivers, like M1158As and such... boy howdy, did THAT work, in fact...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Hmmm. Maybe twinned 2.5-way with D123s? That might actually manage to get some acceptable bottom end "weight" out of them?

It seems to work with other JBL drivers, like M115-8As and such... boy howdy, did THAT work, in fact...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
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Hmmm. Maybe twinned 2.5-way with D123s? That might actually manage to get some acceptable bottom end "weight" out of them?
Very likely, Gordon.

I'm sure I have some relics in the dungeon here; just gotta dig out four of them. At least one pair is rear-mount only, as I recall.... :dunno:
 
Parts ordered, cabinets empty...

:banana: Parts on the way !
I cannot wait to hear these with the new drivers and cross-overs.
What a fun project !

Thanks !!! :thmbsp:

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Looks like I can salvage wires and connectors, great !
 
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