man.. ya'll need to quit calling JBL cause all you're doing is pissing them off, and I'll never get my guides at this rate![]()
Build some plexiglass boxes to show them off. You can get a 4' x 8' sheet 3/4" thick for about $700... :thmbsp:

\I'm just give you crap.. Not being serious.. I'm still calling them myself, just a little frustrated that I'm jumping on the band wagon so late and it's harder to get parts from JBL now because everyone else is trying to... At least I'm trying to get ones that aren't as in demand with all these new builds..
Round #5:
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Top to bottom: Max (5:00), 3, 1, 11, 9, 7, Min (Off).
Yeah, +/- 1.5 dB @ 1:00, yellow.
I'll build it final tomorrow.... :yes:
Excellent findings.vega waves....
attachments show standard <95db crossover sans the adjustable pad and one with no cap/inductor on the woofer (Second pic).
I'll say it again for those new to this: neither JBL nor QSC sells these waveguides as components; we are relying upon their good will to make their inventory of repair parts normally dedicated to servicing factory repair centers available to us directly. Waveguides do not typically break, and the popularity of these projects represents a significant and largely unanticipated demand for these items.JBL and QSC are both being good to us.
Personally, I have very good luck and got my waveguides on the first phone call! I too was late to the party, so do not despair guys!
I am not aware that QSC makes the waveguide we're using in a 1.5" throat variant.Would anyone happen to have the QSC part number for the guide with a 1.5" throat? A link to one and where to order? I've been searching and can't find anything about it.
As shown, 1420 Hz, though that moves around somewhat with the varying attenuation as the HF rolloff marches up and down the LF curve, which you can see (cyan) when the HF is turned off. I aimed for that dip, as I cannot seem to get rid of it. I would not be surprised to discover that it is somewhat mitigated when I round over the woofer recess, which at 11" equates to 1.233 kHz.Looks great. I'm curious to see what you ended up with for x-o point and whether or not you are treating the top end of woofer response with anything.
I stepped through your entire photo series beginning here:
http://pix.minirig.org.au/main.php?g2_itemId=1470
Beautiful job on the cabinet build; I savored every pic.
Very nice speaker!
Thanks! first time I've had a bash at this, so been very interesting, though I had a lot of help and advice from good mate Col who's been making sound systems for a while.Yup. Those cabs look sweet and will probably stick around for years. Nicely done! :thmbsp:
Excellent, thanks for that, this will give me some brainfood to chew on over the Xmas hols.. I made it with the crossovers outside the cabinets so I can get at them easily when I have a go at applying this.The PDS221 curve looks like classic power response above a 3.5 kHz mass breakpoint. It's linear monotonic, and should be amenable to Wayne's Pi-speaker HF compensation approach. Parse it out. Start with just the comp cap; if that's an 8-Ohm driver, your 2.5 uF value is too high and not rolling off the response high enough; pick a value that starts at just above 20 kHz, then set the slope with the resistor in parallel. That'll give you a perspective on how it works. Then add the resistor to common and adjust the pair according to what is required to balance with the core highpass filter and the woofer output. Refer to his attenuation chart here:
http://www.audioroundtable.com/PiSpeakers/messages/1278.html
Read through his tutorial if you haven't done that, and his posts on the subject in this thread, accessible via Advanced Search This Thread on his ID.
With 8-Ohm Selenium drivers, 1 uF is about the max value for C1, eWave's C3. Above that, there's no comp happening at the 20 kHz high end.
As Homer Simpson said... "Doh!" - well all a good fun learning experience!Footnote: One of your early schematics had the highpass inductor to common before the series cap. Not surprising that didn't work....![]()
Round #5 DE250/QSC/DC300 update with preliminary schematic here, so it's all in one place:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3296114#post3296114
WiredGuy'll have to tell you, or you can come by for a listen. Don't know when, but I'll go on to complete a pair; they're clearly an "upgrade."Would you say you like the sound of the DE250/QSC combo better than the standard ewave?
Only if I'm lucky. I'll be posting a bit more data on "managing" the DC300 later today.Are the HF and LF sections of crossover "independent" enough that they can be used separately? The DC300 certainly fits the bill for the econo woofer and I was curious if this LF section would mate up with the standard eWave for a complete off the shelf design in the PE trapezoidal cabs.
O.K., so much for the break:[I'm taking a holiday break to hack into another pair of AR4x with the 8" waveguide first, tho.... :tongue: ]
O.K., so much for the break:
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http://www.jblproservice.com/pdf/AE Series Compact Models/AC1895-WH.pdf
That's JBL 228H from AC18 (93 dB, 250W, SFG, copper-clad pole piece, 2.5" edgewound VC,) which wants to be vented (there's room for a pair of 1.5" ports on the front baffle), but Geddes would say I am slam-dunk done -- merely add subwoofers (his products use high-efficiency woofers closed-box). I'll try some others on hand, but the real purpose here is to analyze the 8" waveguide as eWave candidate. It has D2500Ti on it right now, and I have data to post using that later today. D220Ti will fit, but just barely, due to the depth of the waveguide in this box. I'll try them both, two of each, for now.I have a whole mess of AR4s laying around in various states of deadness. What woofer do you use?
That's JBL 228H from AC18 which wants to be vented (there's room for a pair of 1.5" ports on the front baffle), but Geddes would say I am done -- merely add subwoofers (his products use high-efficiency woofers closed-box). I'll try some others on hand, but the real purpose here is to analyze the 8" waveguide as eWave candidate. It has D2500Ti on it right now, and I have data to post using that later today. D220Ti will fit, but just barely, due to the depth of the waveguide in this box. I'll try them both, two of each, for now.
Installing the waveguide is straightforward like the standard one as shown in your large Advent tutorial: cut the hole. I recall you being stunned by the simplicity of that upgrade. In this instance, I have removed the stock input terminal screws and run the driver leads out those two holes for experimental crossover connections and measurements. The 8" covers the remains of the stock AR4x tweeter recess, whereas the 6" requires some patch and fill to mount on center.
Woofers on hand for closed-box are EPI, AR, JBL, KLH, Boston, and others, but I need to order some Daytons toward a turnkey solution like Skywave has built. Also want to try the 120° version of this waveguide.... :yes: