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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

Fiberglass. By definition, "Heavy" is ~60%, i.e., more than a thin layer lining the interior walls.

"Old school" in this regard, I've never used fiberfill, so you'll have to experiment. The purpose is to increase the virtual volume of the cabinet and damp internal reflections....

I'm still a little confused. Is 60% a "type" of fiberglass insulation? You are filling the cabinet 60% full? Something else?
 
60% is how full the cabinet is. I use pink R-13 insulation from Home Depot with the paper backing removed. If I want higher density in essentially the same thickness, I go to the local gourmet builders' supply (lumber yard) and get R-15.... :yes:
 
60% is how full the cabinet is. I use pink R-13 insulation from Home Depot with the paper backing removed. If I want higher density in essentially the same thickness, I go to the local gourmet builders' supply (lumber yard) and get R-15.... :yes:

Ok, I purchased something similar only I left the paper on and stapled the paper side to the cabinet (top, sides, bottom). I'll add more.

I'm still waiting on parts because I made a bone head move and forgot to order a the 10uF cap (I had the original version cap). No one local had one in stock. :thumbsdn:
 
As seen in this thread, I built the Array-O-Waves using an origanal eWave crossover I had laying around. I took measurments last night and see that the mids are 3.9ohms and the crossover was built for 8ohms. So, is that a significant change? Should I change anything on the woof side of the xover?

So far they sound MUCH better than expected, but I am just running one in the garage as I finish the other. I will move them in the house today and set 'em up proper.
 
Ray posted the answer in your Array-O-Wave thread -- double the cap and halve the inductor.

OR re-wire the "woofers" in series/parallel pairs instead of quads.... :yes:
 
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Visited Zilchland again.

On Sunday, my wife and I got to visit the ZilchLab Grille Cloth Emporium and Spa again. Roughly a year ago, Duffinator gave me a pair of ADC-18 cabinets, and Zilch held them for me all this time, till we could get back to the Bay area to pick them up. Very nice cabinets, by the way. Thanks again, Duffinator. And thanks to Zilch, also.

We just got home yesterday, so it wasn't till today that any attempt to remove the grilles could be made. Seems like they are glued on. All 14 of the screws on the inside of the cabinets through the front baffle were removed, but the grille still won't come off. I hate to pry it off and scar up all the pretty walnut wood. Maybe there is a secret handshake that needs to be performed before they will come off. I will keep trying for a few days till my patience is exhausted, and then the power toolz will strip them.

It looks like the grille cloth is glued to the speaker baffle, which has a rounded rectangular cut, and a tweeter hole. A sub baffle was apparently on there at one time, to hold the woofer. I would like to populate these with a pair of LE10's and PR10's, plus a standard 6x12 inch waveguide. But the baffle will need to be modified, and a new sub-baffle built. It may be that the grilles will be destroyed, but they can be rebuilt. Time will tell.
 

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I have admired those cabs for the duration of their stay here; I believe the aesthetic to be Arts & Crafts movement. In any case, they are quite handsome and in mint condition, fully worthy of the characteristically high-quality JackLab retrofit we so much enjoy seeing in this thread.... :thmbsp:
 
Ray posted the answer in your Array-O-Wave thread -- double the cap and halve the inductor.

OR re-wire the "woofers" in series/parallel pairs instead of quads.... :yes:

Thanks Z. I think I have that stuff laying around somewhere.

On Sunday, my wife and I got to visit the ZilchLab Grille Cloth Emporium and Spa again. Roughly a year ago, Duffinator gave me a pair of ADC-18 cabinets, and Zilch held them for me all this time, till we could get back to the Bay area to pick them up. Very nice cabinets, by the way. Thanks again, Duffinator. And thanks to Zilch, also.

We just got home yesterday, so it wasn't till today that any attempt to remove the grilles could be made. Seems like they are glued on. All 14 of the screws on the inside of the cabinets through the front baffle were removed, but the grille still won't come off. I hate to pry it off and scar up all the pretty walnut wood. Maybe there is a secret handshake that needs to be performed before they will come off. I will keep trying for a few days till my patience is exhausted, and then the power toolz will strip them.

It looks like the grille cloth is glued to the speaker baffle, which has a rounded rectangular cut, and a tweeter hole. A sub baffle was apparently on there at one time, to hold the woofer. I would like to populate these with a pair of LE10's and PR10's, plus a standard 6x12 inch waveguide. But the baffle will need to be modified, and a new sub-baffle built. It may be that the grilles will be destroyed, but they can be rebuilt. Time will tell.

Those look great Jack. Reminds me of Frank Lloyd Right style.
 
On Sunday, my wife and I got to visit the ZilchLab Grille Cloth Emporium and Spa again. Roughly a year ago, Duffinator gave me a pair of ADC-18 cabinets, and Zilch held them for me all this time, till we could get back to the Bay area to pick them up. Very nice cabinets, by the way. Thanks again, Duffinator. And thanks to Zilch, also.
I'm glad they finally made their way to your home. They are in excellent condition and should make excellent eWave cabs. Good luck with them. :thmbsp:
 
...also seen on Tech Talk...

Zilch posted:
..., and Brandon recently demonstrated that 152i has usable pattern control down to 1 kHz with a suitable driver, which I suspect means having a "correct" exit angle.

My investigation with paper gages tell me the throat entry angle of the 152i horn is:

Vertical ~32.5 degrees;
Horizontal ~60 degrees;

When you compare these to the DE250's exit angle of 14.6 degrees you can begin to appreciate the room for improvement.
Comparing these graphically with Geddes' OS profile tells me I need to add ~3/16" between the CD and horn...and smooth.
The smoothing needs to be extended out into the throat. There is a slight concavity to be dealt with up to around 1" into the horn. One can feel it and it is visible by letting sunshine through the throat. Rotate it slowly.

The shadows know. :yes:
 
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I've been inspired by this thread and am going to attempt an ewave with a Klipsch K-24 woof and D-220. My question is does anyone sell a circuit board for the jackgiff 3/18/08 crossover design?

Thanks,

-Steve
 
Getting closer to L220 ewave's. I made a pair of grills so the grandkids will not want to push in the dust cap on the speakers, I don't know why kids do it but they do.:no: Now I'll get the parts for the xovers.
 

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D2500ti impedance irregularity

A little more info. One of my D2500ti appeared to have a misaligned phase plug, or some other problem in the assembly. This was shown by a truncated impedance minima between the dual peaks. I had a replacement driver sent to me, and that one too exhibited this phenomenon. I pushed a little deeper on Parts Express (their customer service was great), and they tested 3 more units. 2 good, one bad. So, they sent out a good one, which I have yet to confirm. All in all, this is a 50% problem rate.

Take every effort to check your Econodrivers boys. These were the more expensive D2500ti, which may be more sensitive to minor alignment issues since they're using the stronger Nd (a smaller physical shift would shift flux more, I'm guessing, if it's in the motor and not the phase plug).

Shame that they're not better QC'd at Selenium. BTW: it's been mentioned before but here's an update: selenium's been acquired by Harman Int'l so these drivers will likely go away sometime in the next year or three.
 
Morning Zilch!

I've been perusing through the AK Collaborative thread for a while now and can't seem to find any impulse response plots for the E-Waves. Any idea which page of this thread might contain a plot or two. I just downloaded HolmImpulse recently and am having lots of fun with it. Other than a few glitches which seem to be my OS's problem, it's been great. The folks over at DIY and Askbojesen have done a great job getting the bugs out over the past year.
 
I've been wondering if there's any audible advantage to attaching the waveguide on the top of the cabinet as some do? :scratch2: Thanks!
 
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