Theoretically there should be some improvement to extending the baffle from the waveguide outward more before the transition to free space. The farther you are away from the source, the less severe the impact of sharp transitions to the response - particularly off axis. There's no sure fire way to tell other than fr and impulse plots - again, particularly off axis - if a sharp boundary to free space at the waveguide's edge is going to have any profound effects. The depth of the guide and mouth shape - among other things, is going to have a significant impact so it's not like one rule of thumb is likely to apply to all situations.
Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker
- Thread starter Zilch
- Start date
Theoretically there should be some improvement to extending the baffle from the waveguide outward more before the transition to free space. The farther you are away from the source, the less severe the impact of sharp transitions to the response - particularly off axis. There's no sure fire way to tell other than fr and impulse plots - again, particularly off axis - if a sharp boundary to free space at the waveguide's edge is going to have any profound effects. The depth of the guide and mouth shape - among other things, is going to have a significant impact so it's not like one rule of thumb is likely to apply to all situations.
I do not post the impulse responses, as few can interpret them. An occasional CSD and wavelet is about as esoteric as it gets here, but I've plastered Tech Talk and CSP with polar plots, directivity maps and waterfalls of late:
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=215536
We need a pic and baffle dimensions. I'm not familiar with that model.
The main audible advantage is that it gets the high frequencies up to listening height; many of the vintage cabinets used with eWaves originally played to the knees....
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Sir.Byrd
Lunatic Member
Looking for waveguide that will fit in Altec Bolero cabinets. I put these together http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=314464 and want to turn my Boleros to E-Bolo.
You could put the waveguide right above the active woofer and thus turn them into floor standing speakers.
voltcontrol
Fizheuer Zieheuer
jimbofish
for TRULY GREAT MUSIC
This is the only reference to using an SP-12 for an E-wave that I've been able to find here. Was there any further evaluation done on this project or maybe another build somewhere that I missed?
Fasterdamnit
Super Member
Order the parts for the basic E-wave, except the woofers. will try it with the stock 12" woofers in my Jensen Spectrum 540's first.
I used the x-over parts list for the DC-300 kit and then saw the other list for a generic 8ohm woofers. I know you need to tweek a bit for your driver, but is ther much of a difference. I know this is a shot in the dark as I cannot find any specs for the Jensen 12.
Question-
The cabinets measure at 2.2 cubic feet not accounting for drivers. Currently they are sealed. Should I port for best response? I would like to use a calculator to find out what looks good, but, again, no damn specs for the stock woofers.
I used the x-over parts list for the DC-300 kit and then saw the other list for a generic 8ohm woofers. I know you need to tweek a bit for your driver, but is ther much of a difference. I know this is a shot in the dark as I cannot find any specs for the Jensen 12.
Question-
The cabinets measure at 2.2 cubic feet not accounting for drivers. Currently they are sealed. Should I port for best response? I would like to use a calculator to find out what looks good, but, again, no damn specs for the stock woofers.
Fasterdamnit
Super Member
Thanks, Z.
The Daytons are in the queue once I build up the audio war chest again.
Let you know how I think they compare to the Adire Kit 281's I have on loan.
The Daytons are in the queue once I build up the audio war chest again.
Let you know how I think they compare to the Adire Kit 281's I have on loan.
I'm calling that a "discovery."
L220 and L222 are often parted out for the value of their 076 tweeters to collectors. In years past, conversion to quasi-4430 worked, but the butt-cheek horns and drivers were relatively expensive, and towers had little cachet. Like 4430s themselves, they were an acquired taste.
Today, EconoWave makes this a slam-dunk. If only I had a pair.
[WAIT! -- I DO have a pair, in the dungeon.... :tongue: ]
bwaslo
Active Member
Rehcarge Alnicos -- would it be worth it?
The JBL 123A-1 woofer pair I bought measures a little high on Qes (0.771 and 0.660 compared to the nominal 0.49 that JBL says a 123A should be). I'm guessing this might be from some demagnitization of the alnico from heavy use during their prior history. Any opinions on whether it would be worth tracking down someone who can recharge the magnets? The Qms is coming in lower than the JBL data says, so Qts isn't far from where it should be. I'd guess the only difference that might come out of a recharge might be efficiency. Would anyone here care about a difference like that?
Just wondering while I'm waiting till the weather gets cool enough to work out in the garage again....
The JBL 123A-1 woofer pair I bought measures a little high on Qes (0.771 and 0.660 compared to the nominal 0.49 that JBL says a 123A should be). I'm guessing this might be from some demagnitization of the alnico from heavy use during their prior history. Any opinions on whether it would be worth tracking down someone who can recharge the magnets? The Qms is coming in lower than the JBL data says, so Qts isn't far from where it should be. I'd guess the only difference that might come out of a recharge might be efficiency. Would anyone here care about a difference like that?
Just wondering while I'm waiting till the weather gets cool enough to work out in the garage again....
jackgiff
Well-Known Member
Why does that not surprise me?
Hi Guys, I had the open baffle line array econo waves (Oblawaves) at the SMAC meeting yesterday. They are keepers. You know that I live around many ewave builders and have heard them all....including Wirebechers yesterday. The Oblawaves sound better than any I've heard so far. Not just proud papa stuff hear either.
But, the crossovers are old used and shot so I need to build good crossovers (PM sent to Z for boards). I am going to measure the resistance of the woofs at the crossover point to determine the cap and coil value this week. I would also like to drop the very high end just a tad. Barely audible lower than the stock ewave xover.....just a smidge. I assume I would change the value of the paralelle cap and resistor? If that is true, what would I change?
If any of you have 16 of the NSB drivers, this is a worth while build. Cheers.
But, the crossovers are old used and shot so I need to build good crossovers (PM sent to Z for boards). I am going to measure the resistance of the woofs at the crossover point to determine the cap and coil value this week. I would also like to drop the very high end just a tad. Barely audible lower than the stock ewave xover.....just a smidge. I assume I would change the value of the paralelle cap and resistor? If that is true, what would I change?
If any of you have 16 of the NSB drivers, this is a worth while build. Cheers.
Just use 'em and watch for a pair of 2213H.
All three values in the HF comp filter may have to be changed to alter the attenuation.
Put an L-pad in there and set it for your desired balance, instead.... :yes:
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MFaughn
Active Member
KG4 a good candidate
Hi,
I have some Klipsch KG4 that I am/was in the process of parting out. The tweeters are gone already so each still has the twin 8" woofers and 12" passive. The just always sounded scooped to me, not enough richness in the midrange. I was wondering though if these would be good candidates for econowaves? Might I expect to get some nice midrange out of them?
I also have some AR4X that I'll get around to eventually. Also some AR2ax that I could try.
Thanks,
Michael
Hi,
I have some Klipsch KG4 that I am/was in the process of parting out. The tweeters are gone already so each still has the twin 8" woofers and 12" passive. The just always sounded scooped to me, not enough richness in the midrange. I was wondering though if these would be good candidates for econowaves? Might I expect to get some nice midrange out of them?
I also have some AR4X that I'll get around to eventually. Also some AR2ax that I could try.
Thanks,
Michael
eWave is modular; there is little downside to acquiring the components and trying it with different midbass sections. You don't have to mod anything to do that, merely connect leads to the woofer(s).
Find you need the 8" waveguide instead of the 12"? $14 apiece more to have both. Different crossover components required? Same scale.... :yes:
EconoWave 4x: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?p=1655955#post1655955
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Cool! Make yourself a blank plate to to behind the baffle where the slot tweeter used to go (like JBL used to do with their studio monitors), and you'll be set!
Regards,
Gordon.