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Zilch's AK Design Collaborative - Econowave Speaker

I remember Zilch having some difficulty aligning the diaphragm at one point, perhaps yours needs to be rotated to one of the other positions?

I think the diaphragm itself fits in two ways, and the back cap does as well, for a total of four possible positions.

I have 6 of the D220 drivers here, 2 well used and 4 fresh. I ran the test on all of them to see if it was just a duff unit, and they all exhibit the same peak/dip to some extent. I moved the measurement setup around the room to make sure this was not a geometry artifact like a ceiling bounce, but it persists.

Then I looked at Zilch's old graphs and saw the same thing. Here's an example. See the peak and dip in the range of 1500 - 3200 hz? That's what my measurement mic is showing me as well. Zilch's measurement was on the Altec M19 XO, which is an animal of another species from the Ewave XO. The only thing in common is the driver and waveguide.
This leads me to believe that the peak/dip I'm seeing is a product of those two parts interacting.

I see his graph compares D210 and D220, and the 220 does the peak/dip to a greater extent in his pic. I have 4 D210s here and I may swap them in and see if the anomaly is still there.

It's possible that this peak/dip is not that critical. One is 1/2 oct in BW and the other is 3/4 octave. They only stand out because the rest of the response measures very smooth. When I EQ it out I can hear the differencebut it's not night/day. If there was a relatively simple passive method for moderating it I'd try, but if not I'll just tell myself it's inaudible and go on enjoying the music.
 
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Seems to me that we hear that peak/dip in the frequency response as 'coloration'. It was and continues to be clearly audible to me, but wasn't as obvious to Zilch (at least aurally). That coloration doesn't bug me all that much considering the overall performance of the speaker system. You have to spend a ton more money to get a flatter response.
Also consider a common alternative...

images


or

IMG_0599.JPG


I listened for years without realizing that I wasn't hearing original program material because my speakers were unable to faithfully render it! I know the Econowave isn't perfect but it IS absolutely stunning considering what else is out there...
 
Seems to me that we hear that peak/dip in the frequency response as 'coloration'. It was and continues to be clearly audible to me, but wasn't as obvious to Zilch (at least aurally). That coloration doesn't bug me all that much considering the overall performance of the speaker system. You have to spend a ton more money to get a flatter response.
Also consider a common alternative...

(snipped) pic of Advent fried egg tweeter.

or

(snipped ) pic of AR2 speaker

I listened for years without realizing that I wasn't hearing original program material because my speakers were unable to faithfully render it! I know the Econowave isn't perfect but it IS absolutely stunning considering what else is out there...

I have the peak/dip EQ-ed out and I can hear when I switch out the EQ, but it's not a fantastic difference. The whole business happens within about an octave, and might be drowned out by environmental acoustic effects in the real world. I'd like it to measure flat, but I'm not going to go to war for it.

Those orange fried egg tweeters used to bring decent money on That Auction Site. Now I have some take-offs that aren't even worth the trouble to box up. Must be a lot of 'waving going on out there.

Interesting you show the AR2 photo. I'm using AR3a cabs/woofers as my 'subs'. They happened to be the right height to stand the JBL L77 cabs on top of and they hit the frequency range I want to support. There are certainly 'better' subwoofers but this works for me.

Wife's not home. Time to crank some tunes...
 
I've modeled 3 different xovers for econowave in PCD and tried them all. One starting with 3mH on midbas, second with 2mH and third version was with 1.2mH. Every version included 12dB/o for midbass. For WG i changed the xover from 12dB/o to 18dB/o and back again just to make sure that PCD and ears are in phase :)

Midbass is Deltalite II 2512 and the only coloration in sound originated from there. The midbass itself is not to blame. The xover was the problem (in my case). It has Le - 0.46mH and Mms is 49 grams. Taking the other TS parameters into the equation one can presume that Deltalite II 2512 is great for playing that high as it supposed to in EWG speaker type. That is one of the reasons Zilch used it for ewave Delite. It should have mid frequencies suited for every type of music.

Anyway, 3mH on midbass gives very nice, low, bass. One could live with sound like that. Everything was OK until i played some music with piano in it. Gergely Boganyi - Frederic Chopin The Complete Nocturnes, to be exact. While guitar, drums, trumpet, sax and almost every other instrument sounded like it should, piano did not. I know this might sound like some audiophile BS but it really is not. It was muddy and did not feel that natural at all. I was a bit frustrated and decided to see what is going on there.

Then i modeled the version with 1.2mH for midbas. The sound opened like someone let fresh air into the room. Every instrument sounded better than before and piano was like …… it is in my room damn it :) . But (and there always has to be “but”) there was absolutely no bass at all. Sensitivity of the speaker jumped from 90dB to 96dB with 1.2mH for midbass (attenuation for WG was adjusted in the process for every xover to match with it). I could not determine lack of bass with classical music, of course. It was SEASIDE RENDEZVOUS – Dennis Kolen (no.5 from Closer to the music VOL.3 – Stockfisch records). It is not some bass shaker song but enough to see that something is missing. My Sennheiser HD515 was on my head when that song began (which is how i determined in the first place that there is big difference in sound of piano between headphones and speakers). Speakers was on, as well. I took the headphones at about half song from my ears and from lovely full on bass, there was nothing in the room :(

Next thing was to try to fix it… again. Xover with 2mH for midbass was the next logical thing to do. That xover stayed. Sensitivity of the box is around 93dB. There is enough bass and the piano is very close to what it should sound (not dead on but hey, nobody’s perfect :) ).

So, for anyone who has this midbas and experiences the same problems i can safely recommend not to put more then 1.8mH or 2mH on it. Capacitor is for slope adjusting and resistor in series with it can help. This goes if one prefers 12dB/o xover. For higher order than that I would recommend that summation of values for both coils is not bigger than 2mH. Box is 4cft tuned to 40Hz (it is not so low but in my room and with relatively high Qts driver, it works :) )

If anyone have this midbass, I would like to hear his experience with various kinds of music.

On the other hand, for waveguide/CD combo there is nothing that i could even remotely complain about (D220ti/Pyle) at all. I’ve tried Yuichi 480FL horn with B&C DE500-8 on it. Listened to it and then listened to Pyle/d220ti combination again.

This is how it measures (with and without xover):

hornfr.png



Guess what stayed ;)
 
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About six months ago, I built EWaves out of empty Heresy cabs, and I've been enjoying them ever since. They sound great.......but can or should I leave well enough alone?

I have had these thoughts lately:

The Heresy cabs had no damping material in them whatsoever. The inside is the bare wood. Although I hear absolutely no ill effects whatsoever from them. Would I likely improve the speakers by adding filler?

I have Selenium 220ti drivers in them with some generic good quality Eminence woofers. Dayton waveguides.

What would be an upgrade path to try to make these great sounding speakers better? I can listen to them all day dong with no fatigue and do not want to change that at all.

I suppose I could leave well enough alone.

Would I hear an improvement by bi amping them? (two ST70s) I have a PA system crossover I could use.
 
Add damping material, all effects are good with a sealed box.
Biamp (with active crossover) may do you better depending on well your passive one is working. A MiniDSP works pretty well, if you can measure what you're doing.
 
Anyone thinking about doing an eWave project needs to check out the deal on Barter Town. You'll know it when you see it.
 
Anyone thinking about doing an eWave project needs to check out the deal on Barter Town. You'll know it when you see it.

Could you clue me in on what "Barter Town" is?? I tried to google it and the first link it turned up set off my virus alarms....
 
Yep, if you pay 25 bucks a year to AK, you get access to Barter Town. It will show up in the list of forums. Always great deals from fellow AKers.
 
Any benefit from stacking Ewaves?

Don't do that, and here's why. You'd have the same sound coming from two sources separated in space. Geometry tells us this means the two sounds travel different distances to reach your ears. That means that they arrive at slightly different times and the waveforms are out of phase at certain frequencies. Out of phase signals cancel out and cause a null at that frequency.
Stacked ewaves would have frequency response that varied by position in the room and frequency, effectively becoming unpredictable.
This same effect can be seen at the ewave crossover frequency when one driver has its polarity inverted and in place of the middle of the forward lobe a notch appears. When the drivers are phased correctly, the upper and lower edges of the forward lobe at the crossover frequency are examples of destructive interference between the acoustic signals of the woofer and waveguide, because at those angles the difference in distance causes the waves to be out of phase.
 
hello Zilch & guys:

Been thru the tread to Page 39, am very interested the Econowave guide & they are available locally; just a few quick questions.

1.) For the passive XO, you guys were aiming for a -9dB at XO point? (only built a standard Butterworth 500hz before, and fool around with a CX2310)

2.) Ever mate the Econowave guild with more interesting bass bin like the Altec825 or let's say a LaScala? (Hardly economical, but local cabinet makers would quote a 825 cabinet, around 20~25% more expensive than JBL 15inch bassbin, mmmmmm........), would the Econowaveguild crossover to those bassbin at around 1.2k ~ 800hz? or would it only be ideal to use with direct radiator bassbin?

3.) Would like to learn more about passive XO and compenstation, assume that Pi Speaker website it's a place to start, but there are so much info there, anywhere good for a beginner read?

Blessings,



Willy
 
Hi Willy,

I'm afraid Zilch is no longer with us, he passed on last February. Today it has been one year since his last post in this thread :(


The designs cross over at about the -6dB points, so that a cancellation null occurs if the tweeter polarity is flipped from as-designed.

A number of woofers have been used, but you do have to make sure to use one that can play cleanly to about 1300Hz and not have too strong of breakup peaks up just above. There's an index of designs, at least up to last December.

Get a copy of PCD for xover design, and start from the basic ewave crossovers, optimize from there for your woofer and mounting scheme.

Good luck, there are people here who can help out when you get some curves to work from.

Bill
 
HPM Ewaves

I picked up the 220TIs from Rex Everything and hooked them up last night. Thanks REX!

I initially was just running them with a Sansa Fuze through a SUT and man did the Ewaves reveal the limitations of that combo. :no:

So this morning I removed the tone section from a PAS2 I have and listened to the Fuze through that...big improvement! Very listenable now. (BIG Improvement on the PAS 2 BTW, also added a grounded cord very quiet now)

I also tried the RTR setup I traded Sam Cogley for and listening to GFR's Closer to Home was alot of fun. The bass is definitely very present. :yes: But I know it can be greatly improved upon. I've read comments from Zilch (RIP) and Kegger that something around a 6ft box will bring out all the HPMs have to offer.

BTW I found a post awhile back with the HPM parameters but have mis-located it, if anyone knows were that is or where I can find them elsewhere I'd appreciate a heads up.

Anyway, I came upstairs to do a system comparison and listen to Closer to Home on vinyl and noticed ear fatigue. :thumbsdn: I'm still just using the stock >95db ewave Xover that Rex had put together but have the Lpads turned down to pretty closely match the HPMs. Rex included the parts to make the <95db version and I'm searching for the post outlining the change so when I find that I'll swap in the parts and see what that does.

Do the foam plugs tame them down to a less fatiguing level? Any other suggestions? Thanks All! Ain't this fun?!!!

HPM Ewaves V1.0

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Fatigue

@ Mid-fi. Regarding the fatigue issue, some people have reported that that goes away the more the drivers are played. The mysterious and unquantified 'break-in' effect is cited. One guy that I built Large Advent Ewaves for HATED them until he went away for a long weekend and left them playing FM for 72 hours. Then they sounded fine. It's all anecdotal, but worth a try if the drivers you have are fresh and have not been played much.

I should test this out. I have D220Tis that have hundreds of hours on them, and 4 more new ones in the box. I could swap drivers and do a listening test.
Nah...
 
@

I should test this out. I have D220Tis that have hundreds of hours on them, and 4 more new ones in the box. I could swap drivers and do a listening test.
Nah...

:lmao:

I don't blame you, sounds like work. I'll leave them playing today and see what happens. Thanks!
 
:lmao:

I don't blame you, sounds like work. I'll leave them playing today and see what happens. Thanks!

Here are 4 photos of the 2 Ewave systems I'm listening to. One is Altec 406 woofers/passives in JBL L77 cabs. The other is bastardized DQ-10s with large Advent Masonite woofers. Both top ends are straight-up original Ewave, with the waveguides treated with clay to make up for being unsupported at the rim.

From the first pic, click 'NEWER' to see the other three.
 
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