I bought a pair of 811b horns locally from FB, excellent condition, good price.
Will try them out at some point with a modern driver.
I bought a pair of 811b horns locally from FB, excellent condition, good price.
Will try them out at some point with a modern driver.
Still thinking about it, probably a 1.7" dome type, but any suggestions?
The DE250 worked well for Zilch on the 511 ....
I'm quite confident those'll work out for you.I just bought a pair of the Peerless by Tymphany DFM-2544R00-08 there were 9 in stock
and I doubt that they'll get more. I'm going to try it on the 811b s and maybe the XT1086.
There was one review that said it sounds better than the DE250, IIRC at high levels.
I've been interested to find a low cost version of the 811b and there's a horn in ABS plastic that looks from the
front like an 811b (with the vanes removed), sold on ebay. Search for 17 x 6" ABS Plastic Bi-radial horn. Looking
at pics of the back side one sees that it is only about half the depth, the sides are strongly curved whereas the
811b is straight conical in shape. I'd PASS on these. They might be fine if the taper is what you need but NOT
as a copy of the 811b, sold by ZXPC, #333338419879.
Still keeping an eye out for a low cost copy.





these might be interesting..............I have a pair of Rectilinear 3 empty boxes. Brought out the horns and one GRS 15PT woofer and I
knew that the boxes were small at about 2.8 cuft, way too small for a good vented alignment but
the woofer and horn will not even fit on the baffle together. Maybe if I flush front mounted the
woofers, it might work but also the depth of the horn is about 1" too much. I think cutting out the
back and a flush board might do it or perhaps just .5" cut into the back board.
If these boxes were close to 4 cuft then +6dB of boost would get back to -3dB at 28 Hz. Thinking
about a lower box to raise them up as a stand and add 1.5 cuft. Not sure if I'll ever be able to
handle 8 cuft boxes in my listening room.
Did I forget to mention that I'm using the GRS 15PT-8 woofer that goes much deeper than the Altec
but is much less efficient: Excellent price.
GRS 15PT-8 15" Woofer Bass Simulation - Looking For Extended Bass
As I mention in this thread I've been thinking about and wanting to build a big Econowave: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/altec-model-19-technical-info-similar-econowave.1065422/ BUT, I want it to have bass extension, ideally, to 28 Hz or at least 30-35 Hz. Most high efficiency...www.audiokarma.org
Perhaps I should just build these with the XT1086 in the box and the 811B on top to compare:
Will they fit ... NO! ... That's a big horn:
I bought these Rectilinear 3s from a friend for $50, he wanted to get rid of them. All the parts went to
AK members for use in their speakers or as spares, even the crossovers.
View attachment 3322083
Horn on top? Maybe - would cut a new baffle of course:
View attachment 3322087
these might be interesting..............
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CLEARANCE Eminence Professional 15" Paper Cone Woofer 3 Ohm
Eminence Professional 15" Paper Cone Woofer 3 OhmThis 3 ohm 15” paper cone professional woofer, built by Eminence Speakers, offers extreme output capability and natural response. The naturally damped paper cone and cloth surround keep unwanted response peaks under control, making it easy to...www.parts-express.com
I have Model 19s and also have 416-8B, -8C and -8Z (16" frame version) drivers which I have measured with a Woofer Tester 2 and have tried all in the Model 19s. The sample to sample measurements are all similar and within tolerances and they don't have a different sound to my ear when mounted in the 19s. Lots of people say the -8B has the best mids but I believe that's because their ears are much more sensitive than mine. The -8B does have the unique and much more sexy looking one piece cast magnetic return structure where other variants have either a welded pipe and cap type of magnetic return or a ceramic magnet. The -8B and -8Z have alnico magnets while the -8C uses a ceramic magnet. The -8B and -8C have 16" frames. The 416-8Z can be the older 15" front mount frame with the ribs on the back or the newer 16" rear mount frame.To ad to a question you did regarding differences between 416 variants, I read someplace here in the forum this:
The 416-8B was designed to be used in bass réflex cabinets, wile the 416-8C was designed to be used on horn cabinets. But, in Altec papers there is cabinet suggestions and port tuning to use 416-8C on 620 and 612 bass réflex cabinets. Read in a post that once a Model 19 owner had one speaker using 416-8C and the other using 416-8B and was not able to hear any difference from one to another.
This is what I have to share so far, I will be following your adventures very interested on knowing about the results.
Cheers,
Rodolfo
Thank you for sharing all this details Kyle, I was for a long time looking for info from a real owner but so far only you and person I recall in my previous post were pointing to these, that there are no differences between those 416 variants. Is very good to hear from your experience.I have Model 19s and also have 416-8B, -8C and -8Z (16" frame version) drivers which I have measured with a Woofer Tester 2 and have tried all in the Model 19s. The sample to sample measurements are all similar and within tolerances and they don't have a different sound to my ear when mounted in the 19s. Lots of people say the -8B has the best mids but I believe that's because their ears are much more sensitive than mine. The -8B does have the unique and much more sexy looking one piece cast magnetic return structure where other variants have either a welded pipe and cap type of magnetic return or a ceramic magnet. The -8B and -8Z have alnico magnets while the -8C uses a ceramic magnet. The -8B and -8C have 16" frames. The 416-8Z can be the older 15" front mount frame with the ribs on the back or the newer 16" rear mount frame.
I don't think that there was a 416-8 that was designed specifically for horn use. 515s were mostly used in horns and I have seen VOTT type speakers with 421s which were also often used in reflex cabs. 416s can be used in a horn but it's not a specific version designed with different specs.
Proper drivers aren't going to be cheap. Altec is built to a quality.I've been interested in the Altec Model 19 (M19) since I was in my teens and read the review in
High Fidelity 1978. Page 37 in the .pdf:
More:
Altec Model 19 on thevintageknob.org
vintage Altec Model 19 high-efficiency professional monitorwww.thevintageknob.org
NICE:
View attachment 3267398
Lately, I've been thinking about buying a pair and that led to wanting to first try something similar by way
of an Econowave. I can think of doing an Econowave as close as possible to the original, or with one of the
upgraded crossovers, and also one that retains the good qualities but improved, on a budget, as much
as possible. Also, one with a MiniDSP so that crossover changes can be easily tried.
I don't need very high efficiency so I don't mind giving up 3-6 dB in an Econowave version.
I don't know a lot about Altec speakers and that is the reason for this thread. If there's full documentation
somewhere please point me to it.
The purpose of this thread is to learn as much as possible about the original Model 19, including:
Box size (volume) and dimensions,
Nice scratch build here: https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/altec-model-19-speaker-building-project.471235/
Port size and tuning,
Drivers used originally and if they were improved along the way, etc.
What are considered the best substitutes as improvements/replacements for the originals.
Crossovers, original, Z19, others and impressions of them if anyone has compared them.
I've read on here that these are end game speakers, so I don't need to be convinced about listening impressions,
I do want to hear about faults and how to fix them and how any upgrade changes the sound.
First question is how would one build a clone (this is not my plan but I want to understand them) and what
upgrades make them the best sounding speakers possible?
I think that I can work out a much cheaper Econowave version once I know how the original was built, but I
do welcome suggestions for drivers, horns, etc.
Thanks all