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Speaker single wire to bi wire modification!

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What you have to do is separate the high and low pass portions of the crossover, and run separate cables to the two sections. Not hard in principle, in practice it depends a bit on the crossover configuration.
 
bi-wire is what Mark W said to do. Bi amp is what Rich said to do, but you will need a second amp to do....
 
My speakers (Platinum Audio PT-801's) are bi-wire/bi-amp capable.
I bi-wired them, but truthfully, could NOT hear a difference?
Of course, your results might be different?

Steve
 
rajkumar_ said:
Hello, anybody have experience speaker wire modification from single wire to Bi Wire? :smoke:
Click to expand...

rajkumar, you should say if you really mean bi-wire or you mean make your speakers bi-ampable.

And also, you might say which speakers you're talking about so people can have an idea of the existing crossover/2-way/3-way and so on.
 
I think running a seperate amp or wire for the tweeters in a standard 2 way will produce limited if noticable results. I single wire a pair of McIntosh XRT 18's on one system and it has 16 tweeters per side and they light up. What is to be gained by a seperate wire to a single tweeter on a 2 way. It's nonsense.

When you bi amp with seperated passive bass cabs things get fun. Taking the load off the mid amp and driver is were the gains are found. And this requires an active crossover.

IMO the dual binding posts and bi-wire option is a rip off. It looks cool and gives the non DIY audiophile the opportunity to try things and feel like they can fiddle with stuff.

marc mc
 
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Hi GOYA, I’ll give you more details! My speaker is Tannoy GRFM single wire (See the attachment crossover); I was modified crossover to Bi-Wire, of course bi amping is the best sounding! I have two pairs of Kenwood L-07M, I hook up one pair for Low frequency and other pair for high frequency! The sound “wow” extremely very good. Thanks! Raj
My system:
Speaker: TANNOY GRFM / Jamo D590 / Sonus Faber - concertino home
Power: McIntosh MC 240 / Nakamichi PA7 / Kenwood L-07M /
Pre: McIntosh C20 / Nakamichi CA7A / Kenwood L-07C / Yamaha C2a
Speake Cable: KK MONOCLE XL / AQ CV4 / AQ CV8 / MIT Terminator S3
Interconnect: AQ Cheetah / AQ Colorado / Cards DIY / Audio Truth
CD: Philips LHH800 Reference / Marantaz CD15 / Nakamichi OMS7ii / Sony CDP X300
Turn Table: Kenwood L-07D / Denon 47F
Turntable cartridge: Grado Gold / ShureM97 Xe & V15xMR / Denon 103r
Tone arm: Sumiko Premier MMT / Fedilty Resarch 64fx
Tone Arm cable: VH / AQ wildcat
Reel to Reel: Akai GX747
Power condi: Monster Power Signature HTS5100 mkii / DIY power cleaner
 

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I would call that passive bi-amping. Not bi-wiring. Your power amps are still amplifying the full frequency range of the source signal and you are still using the crossovers in your Tannoys. And a good portion of that amplification is being wasted by being filtered out by the passive crossovers. Not that it shouldn't sound good. ;-)

The benefits of active bi-amping are described quite well here:

http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm

VERY nice system, rajkumar. :-)
 
GOYA said:
I would call that passive bi-amping. Not bi-wiring. Your power amps are still amplifying the full frequency range of the source signal and you are still using the crossovers in your Tannoys. And a good portion of that amplification is being wasted by being filtered out by the passive crossovers. Not that it shouldn't sound good. ;-)

The benefits of active bi-amping are described quite well here:

http://sound.westhost.com/bi-amp.htm

VERY nice system, rajkumar. :-)
Click to expand...

I agree. The use of passive bi-amping is better than not, as it gives you increased headroom, but there is still a lot more to be gained sonically by going with an active solution. If you already have the amps, it doesn't take much more to get to the full potential that your speakers can achieve.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
TerryO said:
I agree. The use of passive bi-amping is better than not, as it gives you increased headroom,
Click to expand...


I fail to understand how so called "passive bi-amping" (I myself reserve that term for using passive filters at the line stage between preamp and amps) would give more headroom. I don't think using 2 X watt amps into the seperate legs of a speaker level passive crossover is going to deliver more power to each driver than a single X watt amp feeding the crossover normally will.

Regards
 
Tom Brennan said:
I fail to understand how so called "passive bi-amping" (I myself reserve that term for using passive filters at the line stage between preamp and amps) would give more headroom. I don't think using 2 X watt amps into the seperate legs of a speaker level passive crossover is going to deliver more power to each driver than a single X watt amp feeding the crossover normally will.

Regards
Click to expand...

Tom,

I understand that the term passive bi-amping can be interpreted several ways. The separation of the manufacturer's low pass filter from the high pass filter and then driving each with a separate amp (or channel of a stereo amp) is what I believe the OP is doing at this point.

The other passive bi-amping scheme is a passive line level crossover that directs separate low and high pass signals to the appropriate amp powering that section of the speaker. IMHO, this is a far better method that the first, as fewer problems occur and less costly components are used when filtering a line level signal.

Still, I feel that an active crossover is the best, in that it can allow relative gain settings per the various channels (or stages) which allows for the use of different amps. It can also provide for an active buffer stage to be used that may, or may not, be needed to help to preserve the signal.

The largest gain in headroom would, I believe, come from the use of stereo amps used in a vertical configuration where the power supply would be allowed to feed the bass channel with a greater reserve of power, as the treble channel doesn't place as demanding a load on the available reserve. This is probably a small, but significant improvement, whereas the use of passive crossover components before the amplifier, such as you suggest, is a much better solution sonically and also allows for improved headroom as the amplifier doesn't have to waste power driving a signal through a host of inductors, resistors and capacitors.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
Hi all help me to improve sound,:scratch2:if I have active crossover the sound will be better I’s it! I had two pairs of mono block! We can buy any active crossover / is there any DIY active crossover? Give me your advice!
Raj
 
This post is perfect timing. I have a pair of Black Knights that are set up for what I believe is Bi-amping. From what I have read here, am I correct that the these speakers are already set up with Direct Crossover vice a passive crossover. I currently run them with a pair of L-07Ms and if I don't have to mess with doing crossover mods, I would consider searching for another pair of L-07Ms. Thanx.....................
 
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